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Jacking up car by tow hook - thoughts?
Hello everyone,
Does anyone here jack their car up from their tow hook? For example, installing a solid tow hook and using that to jack the car up? A significant number of us did that with the S-chassis and I was wondering if anyone here does it, especially if you can't fit the jack under the front end, jacking it up from the tow hook saves a lot of time. I was thinking one could just install a tow hook (or even the Perrin licence plate relocator) and jacking it up from there. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and to see if anyone does do that. |
i don't think that's a good idea. no different than lifting yourself out of bed by your ears every morning.
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This sounds like a great way to become a Darwin Award recipient. :popcorn:
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i just wouldn't trust a bar of steel, extended off the crumple zone structure-- that is specifically meant to fold when subjected to force, to take 2/3's of the cars weight...
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I was thinking the same thing since with the S-chassis, the tow hook was attached to the frame. I agree and don't think it would be a good idea in this case.
Thanks for the replies everyone. |
Try it report back.
I would think it might work once or twice. Then it would just bend at some point. The tow hook area was meant for horizontal forces, not vertical forces. But eh. Can't say it's proven. |
I had a friend do that on a 240sx bc everywhere else was rusty. It eventually bent sideways. Those cars are so flimsy.
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Drive onto some 2x6 planks of wood first, then get your jack under the front jacking point.
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The bumper to which it attaches to has no capability to hold a vertical load. You will crumple the soft areas which are meant to give under impact and bend your bumper upwards. I would not even attempt it. These areas are quite flimsy.
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Don't be lazy and do it the right way lol.
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you can buy some nice low profile ramps on ebay for under 50 bucks, or just use some 2x6 or 2x8 boards if you're really strapped for cash.
This car isn't a 240sx...don't treat it like one (former 240sx owner speaking here) |
I use the oem tow hook in front to lift the car enough to get a jack under the front crossmember.
Also been doing it with my 240sx for a number of years with no problems. |
My quick and easy way especially if car is lowered is to jack from the sides under the pinch weld. Otherwise use wooden planks. I would strongly advise against using the tow hook as a jacking point.
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I use the pinch welds most of the time, I buy some hockey pucks and cut them in the center to put between the jack and pinch welds, and they still look like new.
Never used the tow hooks to to jack up an S-Chassis. Didn't know it was a thing, and I have owned 13 of them. |
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Drive by a house being built and ask for some cut offs.
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you're supposed to ask?!?
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how long is short enough for a 'cut off'? i could use a new garage.
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Update: I forgot to mention, I found the actual tow hooks that are welded to the frame, located in front of each of the front wheels, that I mentioned using for jacking up the S-chassis. These work perfectly! I will update with a picture when I get the time.
Also I agree, I doubt it will be a good idea to jack it up from a "bolt in tow hook" or license plate frame relocator. Thank you for everyone's insight! |
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Here it is, there is one on each side of the car for your jacking purposes.
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Lol what the hell?!
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I've never seen that on my car... Now i need to look tonight
Also, if i need to jack that far forward, i just use the front crossmember. |
Those are actually the tie down points for shipping. If you tried to tow by the you would rip your front bumper off. I would be nervous using them as jack points because the small contact area would be an invitation for slipping. They are also not designed to take weight at that angle.
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Okay, for real now... the tow hook was designed to pull parallel to the ground, with the aid of your rotating wheels. If there were no wheels on the car, I'd question the tow hook's integrity to pull the car for long distances. Think about a twig on a tree. You can pull to your heart's content and it may not come off the tree. But if you apply force in a different direction, you can easily snap it off the tree. Physics doesn't change for tow hooks. I'd stick to the designated jack points :threadjacked: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111. |
As many have previously stated, this is a pretty bad idea. The tow hook will be fine for pulling the car in tension (regular towing of the car), but can only take approximately half the load in shear (lifting the car via the hook). The weight would likely cause damage to the hook/crash bar which would be a very costly repair. You're far better off lifting from the pinch welds, once again as many others have stated. And remember to always use jack stands! :)
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Im not going to re state what many others have said. I will simply say this:
"Stop being so damn lazy" Roll onto ramps/wood what have you, then jack up the front, place stands in front. Jack up the rear (using the JACK POINTS IN THE OWNERS MANUAL) and place stands under the rear and reverse to lower the car to the ground. Now if your at a track/side of road and you can't use the factory jack points for whatever reason you jack up each wheel to remove it as stated by the owners manual, at that point you should be using the emergency jack since it must be an emergency that your not using the proper jack points. |
i jack up the front by the crossmember. saves a ton of time instead of moving the jack side to side.
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