Best Turbo kit for stock engine? As of 2018...
 

What’s the safest turbo kit to run on stock engine? I want to run E85 flex fuel. Wondering what to budget for parts + install. Thanks.

A supercharger

Any kit is “safe” if tuned correct. However if you can not afford a blown engine you may not want to. A blown engine is possible with any kit.

I Don’t like the superchargers. I will build the engine if and when it happens... The MAP kit looks pretty nice. They also offer just the hot parts kit. Is there a better set up for the stock engine I could piece together?

PTuning’s Kit. You’ll probably spend the most on it with all the accessories, but definitely the most comprehensive.

That kit looks great and I know the Vband is big plus. Would the larger 3076 turbo be better or worse for a daily driver than the precision 4831?

There is zero reason for anything that big on the stock if your going for safety, all your doing is getting lag for no reward on low boost. 2867 is already more than capable at 400whp.

I would go with map because of the ewg. I know ptuning has it as an option but with the $2.5k in difference , you can buy an AIG motor and be worry free.


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There is no singular best kit. I'd recommend searching & doing some more research to determine what your requirements are and work backwards from there.

Does best mean most efficient heat management? Spool time? Cost?

You have given zero parameters for what is best. Your first sentence included 'safest'. Your second said E-85. Any turbo kit run 8 psi on E-85 will generate enough power to run a serious risk of bending the connecting rods. Then you said you will build the motor if it blows, so you don't really care about safe.

If you really want the 'safest' (and have to have a turbo)I would recommend an AVO stage 1 kit NOT running E-85. While you enjoy that you can build a new short block with pistons and rods and get the bigger injectors you will need for E-85 and then look at stage 3. If you need more than the 400 hp that gets you can pull that kit off and sell it and then go nuts.

If you go big right away (which I have to assume is a terrible car for a daily driver with lag and all) and snap a con rod shards of metal can go through the oil system and destroy your valvetrain. A short block is cheap. A long block is very much not. I did this on my STI; learn from my stupidity.

I would have to 2nd on the AVO kit for a daily. I am running e85 at 8 psi. I do like how soon the turbo kicks in. Getting 6psi at 3400, 8 at 3800. We ran a 10 psi map and I beleive it got there at 4000 rpm. However with the smaller/stock exhaust it will taper back down between 7 and 8 at redline.

Safest? GReddy. Runs the lowest boost. Still 300+whp on ethanol at just 7 psi.

Is this what your talking about? Seems like the thing to do. So that would be like $3000 for the built engine +the labor to swap it withyour stock engine. Thinking I will probably save up the extra money to do the built block. You guys scared me away with all the" you will blow your block" talk. Are people were having issues with the manifold rubbing on the oil pan on the MAP kit?

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...kaAlPhEALw_wcB

https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-S...g-eng-1209.htm
This is the motor I’m talking about. They have 6 options. And if you want it bulletproof, do a closed deck and DO what ever they tell you to do, if you listen to anybody else, you will loose the engine. I haven’t look at the manifold rubbing issue.


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Off topic fun fact: IAG is ~25 minutes from my house.

Best Turbo kit for stock engine? As of 2018...
 

Off topic fun fact: I hate you [emoji82]
I’ll be living in NJ soon. So about 2.5hrs from my new place. Hopefully!


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Bullet proof a FA20 means staying under 500whp and that's still pushing it for the term bullet proof. Yes they can push 700 to 800 whp but not for long...

Even if you lived down the block from IAG, I've heard that going there isn't worth it unless you have VERY deep pockets and don't mind being on their waiting list for about 3 months just to have your car looked at for an estimate.

Boost + FA20 Motor not equal safe anywhere. But to be safest on stock internals low boost around 7-8 PSI with e85 and most any decent kit will work. 2 things that will be the same no matter which kit is proper install and a solid tune.

I wouldn’t have them look at the car. It would cost a fortune. But buying 1 of their motors and not pushing 40 psi, it should last. There was a guy in Nasioc with their stage 2 motor at 500whp for 80k+ miles, no problem, even redlining the car weekly.
OP doesn’t sound like he needs power, he just wants to have fun. I say do it once and do it right. Motor, turbo, 9 psi. It should last for years.


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Why build the motor to only then run 9 psi? The standard motor will handle that just fine for some time. Even if/when the motor does decide it has had enough you could probably buy 2-3 replacement motors for less money than a built engine.

Don’t get me wrong, I personally like to do it right and do things once. But i don’t see the value in building a motor to run such i minor bump in power, especially when you see lots of guys running ~300hp on unopened motors

When the stock block grenades nothing says that it will do so peacefully. Yes, you can buy a used shortblock for $2k but if your heads are damaged when it goes you are looking at a much larger bill than just starting off with a built shortblock. Each head costs as much as the shortblock. As soon as my Edelbrock is paid for money is going in a fund to get the IAG block so that I can run ACE headers and E85 with the supercharger and never worry about the motor again.