Is there a trick to getting the rear hubs off?
 

Is there a trick to getting the rear hubs off? It removed the speed sensor and the 4 bolts that hold hubs to the carrier. I’ll be damned if I can get the hubs off. I’ve even tried one of those hub pullers that bolt to the wheel studs with a screw in the middle to push against the axle. I can get the axle about 1/2 way pushed in, but the bearings show no signs of coming out.

Car is a 2013 with about 58K miles on it. Any suggestions? I’m afraid I’m going to bend or break something.

Thanks,
Dave

Explain what you mean by hub.
Disk or axel.

This part. I’m trying to put on ARP extended studs

Ok, three thing that can be holding it.


the outer face of the inner hub


the splines


the bearing


Put the puller back on and snug it tight, using a large drift try to rotate the inner hub with a dead blow hammer. If the inner hub turns then it is either the bearing or the splines. At that point you can tighten up the puller as either the splines or the bearing will have to let go.
If it is the inner hub then spray it with wd pb or whatever let it sit over night and repeat. Then use heat on the back of the inner hub mount.

Take off the drum brake and use an air hammer where the hub meets. If you want to be more gentle takr the whole hub and parking brake off the car. Put some lug nuts on the studs. Thread two of thebfour bolts half way in the back. Put socket on the bolts and pound it to knock it loose.

I didn't have an air hammer and pounding the bolts only worked on one of mine. In the pinch I ordered a hub/parking brake assembly from a low mileage wreck and installed it. I had a thread on it, I'll try and find it.

Here was my experience

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107114

Last post on page 4 was my solution

That is a press-fit assembly of angular contact bearings. They are not coming apart without a serious press.


https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...00V7H02FX.html


https://i.imgur.com/wkyI0o3.jpg

I think he wants to remove the whole hub bearing assembly? Or i misunderstood

He's installing long studs. It's far enough apart if he has a vise or some flavor of that tool.

I had to remove the whole assembly in the rear to install ARP extended studs. The studs I just used a sacrifical lug nut and a hammer to remove

I extend my deepest sympathy to your wheel bearings.

:iono:

you can use a ball joint separator from the hazard freight it costs like 20$ and works really well

I have one. One blow with the hammer works well. I understand some will say this will damage your wheel bearing. I haven't seen that in my limited experience and i don't see how it is any worse than track driving. To each their own.

It is much worse than any sort of driving due to the peak forces involved. A hammer blow dissipates high energy over a very short period of time. That is not remotely similar to even the force of a pothole strike transmitted through a tire.

Rip my bearings then, i won't tell them if you don't :brokenheart:

The net effect may be as little as cutting a few thousand miles off of their overall life but it's real.

For the same reason that the vehicle weight must not rest on the wheels with the axle nut loosened, it's MUCH worse to hammer on that assembly with a loose axle nut than with it cinched up so the balls are properly loaded up in the races.

Here's a pretty good picture of what happens internally. The wheel bearings are a flavor of duplex angular contact type.


The axle nut is loose on the left.


http://www.bardenbearings.co.uk/hres...0for%20web.jpg




http://www.bardenbearings.co.uk/index.cfm_articleid_717

So, new knuckles and bearings it is. Took the knuckle completely off, soaked it with PB Blaster, and took a 2 1/2 lb hand sledge to it from the back side. No movement.

The next question is, is it possible to disconnect the ebrake cable from the knuckle / bearing assembly? I don’t mind buying a new assembly but the ones I see on eBay have the ebrake cable with them which doesn’t bode well. Am I going to end up having to remove and replace the ebrake cable too?

Thanks!

No. The cable clips to the back plate.