Crackle pops during wot
 

As the title says, my problem is when i wot during high rpms, the car will stall and make crackle pop sounds. When it does that, it won't let me go pass that high rpm for example 6000rpm. The needle just keeps bouncing off at 6000. I cant redline to 7600rpm. I am fbo and tuned on e85. I have replaced the clutch switch and same problem occurs. Can it be the injectors? Or something else?
I have changed the spark plugs and heat wrapped the ignition coils.
Besides wot, the car drives just fine.

Is the rev limiter changed ?
https://youtu.be/EL50fh9-_9A


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I have it at 7300rpm.
I can't even get to 7000rpm.

Stop doing it and get it on a dyno for some diagnostics.

It doesn't throw any cel

Perhaps try reflashing your tune ?


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Maybe a coil, a plug, AFR????

If it's popping on throttle that's a bad thing.

Could the problem be related to direct injector seals? They're known to make a popping/crackling sound when they fail.

Bad fuel?

Thats what i am thinking and hopefully that is the problem cause if not, I'm selling the brz lol

No i dont think, ive been using the same gas station for years. The first time this happened was this year.

Tried multiple times and still happens

I would say the tell tale sign is if the crackling/popping is coming from under the hood and not exhaust. 2013s did have a known DI seal issue as well.

Is this recent? Have you changed the tune on the ECU recently? Does it seem like a rev limiter? If it seems like a rev limiter it probably is a rev limiter. It does sound to me like the OFT launch control or EcuTek FFS.

Start data logging, turn on all cylinder misfire channels, watch AFR

No answer huh? Same thing just happened to me after popping an intercooler pipe. Limped home at 2000 rpm put the pipe back on, but now it won't go passed 5800-6000 rpm without misfiring. So far only tried reseting ECU because I thought maybe the trims went all out of whack. NOPE! Time to log.

@D-VO

This is an issue with a coilpack, guaranteed. I had this come up randomly recently. I replaced the top coilpack on the passenger side (following the misfire code it threw) and the problem went away immediately.

log and check for misfire and look at injection DI end to spark, the value in ms at the rpm you get the problem, but I also think it s coilpack(s)

If it was a coil or fuel issue it should throw a misfire cel. This is not happening so I would look at the tune and make sure. If you have a old tune that's for FI try it and see if it changes

Just don't forget that the tuner could've disabled the CEL. Not that they should've but you never know.

Check it not an overboost fuel cut set up in tune, if map sensor goes bad it can trip early

Car may not throw a cel but it could still misfire.... Check for dtcs. When I was dealing with a idle lean condition due to tune, I would not always pop a cel but it would log a dtc and car would drive wired till clear. What AFR are you seeing at WOT, but I would get your car checked by your tuner

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@DarkPira7e I'm getting no misfire codes. Mine are all still enabled except for the rear O2 and MAP sensor SES because I'm using an OMNI 4 BAR MAP sensor.
@steve99 How can I test the MAP sensor? I'm logging the boost level with the MAP and it's still climbing as it did in previous logs. The only datalog line that I see changing is the timing; it drops by 1 - 2 degrees during the misfire and AFR's start going up to a maximum of 12.8. It almost feels like its hitting a rev limiter.

Also, when the coolant temp is low (not sure the exact number) the misfire happens @4500rpm

What's your oil temp at that time? It could be a built in safety feature put in by your tuner that under a certain oil temp the car is setup to pull timing and might simulate what you think is a misfire... ( After talking with my tuner I found out he does this) the reason is to protect the engine from seeing to much oil pressure which he has measured during the warmup process. They have seen as high as 100psi during this period which he said no Bueno. It also keeps cylinder temps down during this process.

Also are you logging misfires counts? He showed me a table where in the hire rpms it requires 20ish to long a cell and at low loads it's was near 90!!! Yikes [emoji1787]

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Wow! Well I'm the tuner and I never programmed such a thing. When I get home I have to look at the log again to see the oil temps. Good call!

Maybe test it against another manifold pressure guage.


Also make sure it reads close to 14psi or 1 bar with engine off igniiton on

Ok. Maybe I can put the stock one back on for testing since the problem does happen right around 8psi

@steve99 - So today I was able to reflash for the factory MAP sensor and drive the car again: This time the car misfired at 6000RPM again, but I got a p0108 (Input Voltage to high at MAP) at the same time. Going for a new 4 bar MAP sensor, but I don't understand how a MAP sensor can go bad after an intercooler pipe blew off.

Did you suck some steam up into the intake?
I blew a heater line on one of my cars and the steam it sucked it messed with all my air sensors since when the water evaporated it left a film of the additives all over them.

Well it did suck in a boat load of hot air since the I/C pipe that decoupled was the one before the MAF sensor.

MAF cleaner?

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I had a second MAF sensor that I tried. No change.

Connector look OK?

Yep. Everything looks good. I'm trying to find where that vacuum line that comes off the throttle body goes. I see it goes into the sensor under the intake manifold then goes up between the fuel line then goes back down underneath the car. I'm thinking there may be a vacuum line that popped off in the back of the car that I can't see or hear. I've been looking for a vacuum diagram online with no luck.

Here are the service manuals. There is a vacuum line diagram in there someplace.


https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/

If you did not clamp it down when switching to FI that could be an issue for sure.

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So here is the list of things I've looked at or tried swapping so far:

Everything is clamped
Tried a new MAF
Tried a new MAP
Cleaned Throttle body twice
No vacuum leaks
Spark plugs are clean no fouling
No SES light or codes
Followed that vacuum line from the sensor underneath the intake manifold to the back; Still connected.
Car still pulls hard until the misfire then the RPM's will not raise any higher

A few weeks ago the misfiring was at around 6000 RPM, now the misfire starts down at 4000RPM. I only checked the resistance of the coils which gave me consistent readings but I'm not sure if there's anything else I can do. Has ANYONE else experienced this?

Can you tell what cylinder the miss fire is coming from? Replace that plug and coil pack and see if that fixes it. Use ecutek to log

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I wish I knew someone with ECUTek to log for me. I'm using open source (ecuflash) with tactrix and SD card for logging.