Viper8's '13 FRS DD / Track Build
 

So, smbstyle's track build log inspired me to start my own thread. This thread intends to track the progress of my daily driven 2013 FRS as it works to become a track machine.

My intentions include...
-Keep this car my daily driver
-Make this car as fast on the track as possible within my budget
-Keep this build naturally aspirated
-Prioritize best value upgrades
-Have a blast doing all the above

Running upgrade list:

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels:
-Enkei RPF1 17x7.5 wheels
-Sumitomo HTR Z tires
-DBA USA 4000 T3 slotted rotors
-Ferodo DS2500 brake pads
-Motul RBF 600 brake fluid
-Radium master cylinder brace

Engine/Drivetrain/Intake/Exhaust:
-K&N drop-in filter
-Intake snorkel modification
-OFH3 header and overpipe
-DEI titanium header wrap
-OFT 91 stage 2+ tune
-Sound tube delete
-Perrin light-weight crank pulley

Cooling/Lubrication
-Mishimoto Oil Cooler w/ Thermostat
-Mobil 1 0W-30 synthetic
-Motul Gear 300 transmission and differential fluid

Body/Cosmetic/Aero/Interior:
-ikon motorsports spoiler
-black toyota emblem
-CG seat belt lock
-Custom engine vents through fender garnish

Cheers!

It was 2012 when I started seriously looking for a car that I could both use as a daily driver and take to the track. After much research, I narrowed down my options to a used Miata due to availability, reliability, track record, and price. I however found them exceedingly ugly. Nevertheless, I started looking for a good used find.

Fortune was on my side, and before I spent my dough on a Miata I happened upon an article about the up and coming Toyota/Subaru project, and I was sold. Finally a car with everything I was looking for including the looks to match.

Fast forward to 2015, and I had saved enough pennies to buy my used FRS. However, I had to sell the "practicality" aspect of it first to my wife. We went to a local dealership to test drive one. With an infant car seat behind the passenger seat, and my wife in the passenger seat (her face inches from the windshield), we determined it would in fact be technically possible to fit our whole family in the car if our other broke down. Hallelujah, I got the permission to proceed.

A greyhound bus trip to Ohio, a test drive, and a check later, I had my used, 2013 Ultramarine Blue, 6MT, Scion FRS. I drove it back to Oklahoma with a grin the whole way. And so it began.

The next point of order was to take it to a track. I attended a track day at Hallett Motor Racing Circuit in Jennings, OK going CCW. Car was bone stock including the lovely Prius tires, track was wet, and the car worked great. The track dried up by the afternoon for some progressively quicker laps. With all that fun it was time to start working some upgrades before the next track day.

Before returning to the track, I decided I needed a few things: I needed a means to measure car improvements at the track, I needed some higher temp brake fluid to prevent boiling and better brake pads to improve performance and increase stopping confidence. Also, I needed to start saving for better tires.

Instead of buying an expensive transponder for timing track laps, I stumbled upon Harry's Lap Timer. It's an awesome app that uses your phone's GPS to record track times and can additionally incorporate G forces from your phones accelerometer and OBD reader if you have one. I also purchased a beefy Ram Mount X-Grip to be able to monitor times and record laps.

For the brakes, I bought some Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid and replaced the fluid. After reading dozens of brake posts, I decided to upgrade pads only for the time being with Ferodo DS2500 Pads. Thanks to @JRitt for all his awesome posted info:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...?t=4807&page=2
https://www.essexparts.com/support/learning-center--faq

With the new lap timer, brake pads and fluid, a return to the track was in order.

Harry's Lap Timer is a good option if you don't want to spend a bunch of money. As long as you have a decent signal, you're golden. Plus, I believe that they sell boosters to improve the refresh rate. Saving money means more money for track days and mods.


Note: Proper safety equipment goes a long way as well.

Absolutely - I agree 100%! I dig your signature line by the way.

2nd round at Hallett (CCW)- (Prius tires earning their keep...):

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AHmfZ-IfpbE"]Hallett FRS Oct 16 - YouTube[/ame]

Fastest lap 1:41:31

Car handled well. I had a little more confidence with the new brakes and fluid, but the tires while fun definitely had me wanting more grip. After reading about FRS oil cooling issues, I decided to switch to a slightly heavier hot oil weight with 0W-30.

I also received a few fun Christmas presents I had asked for. I got a Perrin lightweight crank pulley and a Radium master cylinder brace. Shifting (especially downshifting) was taking longer than I would've liked, so I was hoping the lightweight pulley would help make throttle blips a little quicker and more responsive. @Enigmus has a great pulley installation writeup.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12583
The install was pretty straight forward but loosening the crank pulley bolt was a pain in the rear.

While the pulley looks great, and there is a significant weight difference while holding the two, (1.2 lbs vs 3.9 lbs), I was unable to note a significant difference in engine response without load.

The master cylinder brace was simple to install and seemed to make a slight improvement to brake pedal firmness.

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The next upgrade had to be tires. While doing a little online window shopping, I found a pair of wheels I liked at tirerack, and while they looked good, they really didn't provide any weight savings over the stock wheels (20.1lbs). While perusing ebay one day, I found a good deal on some Enkei RPF-1's in 17x7.5 (vs. the stock 17x7) which come in at 15.2lbs, which was just the size I was looking for (although I would've preferred black wheels over the silver - but beggars can't be choosers!). This would keep weight down while keeping an appropriate amount of grip . After spending all my money on wheels, I decided to match them with Sumitomo HTR Z's from Tire Rack (instead of the Pilot SuperSports I was planning on).

The next item of business was to do something about the FRS's rear end. The trunk just looks like it's missing something without a spoiler. I found one I liked on ebay from ikonmotorsports that came painted for $140. I also bought some 2-sided trim tape to install the spoiler (didn't want to drill through the trunk). Finish was great and the color matched well. Fit was pretty close - good for the price. I prepped the surface using a cleaner/wax remover and clay bar. During the installation I did try to improve the fit slightly using my wife's blow dryer and clamps which I think helped marginally. Overall I'm very happy with the spoiler and would buy again.

An interesting nugget:
No spoiler, no undertray CD = 0.29
OEM spoiler, no undertray CD = 0.28
OEM spoiler, with undertray CD = 0.27

There's an interesting video about FRS aerodynamics here:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quDLzxmJl5I#t2500"]Automotive Aerodynamics Episode 1: Flow Visualizations of MR2, RX7, Supra, FRS - YouTube[/ame]

Back to the track. 1st time going clockwise (CW). Fastest lap 1:40.17.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqOpVtmKMfg"]IMG 1276 mov - YouTube[/ame]
There was a definite improvement in grip with the new tires.

Wanting to know how my oil was holding up to the abuse I've been putting it through, I decided to send a sample off to Blackstone Laboratories. The oil had about 3500 miles on it with normal commuting plus two track days.

I also decided to do a few more longevity upgrades. I bought some Motul Gear 300 for a transmission and differential fluid swap from mod bargains:

http://www.modbargains.com/frs-brz-t...w90-105777.htm

It was pretty straight forward to drain and replace. The drain plug was cleaner than I was expecting. It does seem that when it's cold outside gear selection is a little stiffer until it warms up.

I finally decided to remove the sound tube. It annoys me they have a pipe to bring noise into the cabin, and it clutters under the hood. Following the post from @B-R-Z I got rid of that thing:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72263
Instead of using the shark bite to plug the passenger firewall hole, I used someone else's suggestion of just using the glove box cigarette light cap. Fits perfect, and I will never notice it's missing.

Back to Hallett with a damp track. Clockwise direction again, fastest lap was 1:42.21 (about 2 seconds slower than last time). Times were largely attributable to really not wanting to take my car swimming off the track.

Since buying my FRS, this was my 5th track session over the last year at Hallett, and so far the car had been enduring well. About 75% of the way through the day, I started to notice some shimmy under heavy braking that slowly got worse through the end of the day. I expected it was due to warped rotors as I had relatively recently replaced the brake fluid (so I didn't think it was fluid related). The stock rotors had actually put up surprisingly well to the abuse and had handled all they could take, but now I finally had an excuse to make some changes to the brakes.

So for brakes. I have done plenty of brake window shopping over the last year, and as much as I'd love a nice BBK from Brembo, Wilwood, or AP racing, I just can't justify the price tag. While I'm sure it would improve brake performance, my naturally aspirated just won't require or justify the stopping power from a BBK. I even looked into a CVS (Brembo) caliper set, but even those were surprisingly costly. At this point I decided to either keep buying the cheap FRS rotor blanks, or see if I could get a better rotor with a little better longevity.

I was comparing Stoptech and DBA USA rotors and was offered a partial sponsorship from DBA USA. Full disclaimer, while I do currently have a partial sponsorship from DBA, I was impressed with what I read about their 4000 and 5000 series rotors. The 4000 T3X series is a one-piece slotted and vented rotor with heat paint. The 5000 series is a two-piece rotor slotted and vented rotor. While I understand the benefits of the two-piece, I elected to go with the 4000 T3X series (for initial and replacement cost reasons) along with some front XP650 track pads (they did not at the time have XP650's available for the FRS rear wheels).

Customer service was top-notch, shipping was quick, packaging was thorough, and installation was simple. I have not yet installed the XP650 pads as my Ferodo's still have some wear remaining on them. Initial impressions are the new rotors feel solid, (and I think they look great). One of these days I'll paint the calipers as I plan on hanging on to them for a while. My next brake upgrade will probably be stainless steel lines the next time I replace the brake fluid.

Looking good

After spending way too much time looking at FRS intake systems, I decided to go with a K&N drop-in for the time being. I may eventually do an INJEN intake, but gains seem minimal for the cost. Additionally, I plan on buying an OFT+OFH in the future, and I know the tune was done with a standard intake.

Also, in order to save the bruised knees from holding myself centered in my seat on the track, I started looking into a racing harness. The issue was for a racing harness, I either needed a bar for the belt, or a full-up racing cage. The harness bar for a 4-point just seemed like an expensive half-way to a roll-cage, and a full-up racing cage wasn't going to work for as long as I keep this car my daily driver.

While scratching my head over what to do I stumbled across the CG Lock. It seemed a little ridiculous for it to claim too much of anything, but it had good reviews so for the price decided to give it a shot. With a few upgrades under the belt it was time to check our progress at the track.

Just to review, updates since last track visit:
-DBAUSA Front and Rear slotted rotors
-K&N drop-in filter
-CG Lock

Going Clockwise, fastest lap time was a PR, 1:38.56 - nearly 2 seconds faster than my previous best! I was also using a different line into the first corner that an instructor recommended trying (double apex vs. late single). Evidently it was originally designed that way.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peM09oIIif8"]YouTube[/ame]

Was able to pass that pesky Miata shortly thereafter.

The new DBA slotted rotors were solid and had good bite. No seat of the pants difference with the K&N filter (but I wasn't expecting to be able to feel a difference anyways - even if there was a subtle one). The CG Lock surprisingly was very effective. Certainly no 4 or 5-point, but a good 80% solution for a fraction the cost. Cinching down and locking the belt in place kept me from sliding around left/right and made pedal manipulation easier. I'm a fan.

After saving up and selling off some other toys, it was time for a header. I decided to go with the OFH3 + OFT from OpenFlash. It comes with the tablet, UEL header, and overpipe.

While waiting for a good weekend to install the header, I decided to install a stage 1 flash for the mean time. After saving my car's ecu data to the tablet, I was expecting to be able to flash a pre-saved ecu tune. However, the tablet wasn't letting me install any tunes! I thought I had somehow already broken the tablet, but it turns out that there weren't any tunes preloaded.

Unfortunately, OpenFlash Manager (OFM) is a windows only app, and all I had available was Macs. I had bootcamp running on one with Windows XP (really old, I know), but it was too old to support OFM. I tried installing OFM on my other Mac using a program called Wine, but I couldn't get that to work either. Finally, I asked to borrow a friend's pc laptop and was to install the needed tunes to the tablet and then the car with no issues.

First impressions with the Stage 1 91 Oct tune: the throttle deadband increase (throttle lag) worried me at first but afterwards read it's normal and should go away after a few days (which it did after about a week). There was no noticeable seat of the pants performance increase, but the throttle response was noticeably more linear (which will allow for more subtle and precise throttle changes).

Next posts will be the header install...

Pre-installation I did a fairly thorough inspection of the header and over-pipe. The welds all looked good (no cracks, holes, or significant "fish-eyes"). The stainless finish looked sharp too. After reading about the flange (header to block) issue @tomaszjanczak had, I checked mine with a straight edge for flatness. The driver's side flange was square, but the passenger side flange was not. It was slightly convex. I decided to go ahead and press with the install and see if the gasket would be sufficient to prevent any leaks.

While I didn't realize this until mid-install, the header to over-pipe connection is a slip fit. The moment I realized this my heart sunk. Slip fits are notorious for being difficult to seal. This is displayed clearly in OpenFlash's advertising of their OFH3 package, but I didn't notice it. While I think I was finally able to get a complete seal, it was fairly frustrating to do so. Doing it again I would recommend the OFH2 + OFT and purchasing a separate flanged aftermarket over-pipe if desired.

Thanks to @F1point4 for his excellent Borla UEL header installation DIY. The OFH install was quite similar with only a few differences I'll point out.

-Put the car on a lift (if you have access to one - it will make the job way easier)
-Remove the skid plate
-Remove the fiberglass splash pad
-Unclip the two O2 sensor wire harnesses and clips that keep the wires secure
-PB Blast the old exhaust manifold to engine block nuts, the nuts on the bolts connecting the old exhaust to overpipe, the front pipe hanger bolt, (if replacing the overpipe, also PB Blast the over pipe shield bolts and the overpipe to front pipe nuts)
-After giving the PB Blaster a few minutes to work, loosen the nuts/bolts just sprayed

-Note:
If one of the exhaust manifold studs loosens instead of the nut, don't fret and just remove it as is without changing the nut position on the stud. If the nut didn't move during removal, when you re-install it (torqued correctly) it should hold just fine. If the nut did loosen, but the stud removed, re-tighten the nut at least as much as the other nuts were while torqued and then reinstall.

All pictures are oriented with the front of the car up.

The header itself removed fairly straight forward. I removed the front pipe hangar bolt and the overpipe to front pipe bolts. Then I pulled the front pipe off the j-hook and let it hang from a piece of hangar wire. This gave me enough slack to fully remove the header without loosening or removing the frontpipe from the cat-back.

Overpipe removal specific: I struggled for a while with trying to figure out how to get the old overpipe out. Turns out you have to remove the overpipe heat shield then it will thread out fairly easy.

Clean up the mating faces with a razor blade (if you're extremely careful) or a good solvent and rag. I reinstalled the O2 sensors with some anti-seize as well. You can hang the gaskets off the studs for pre-placement to make installation a bit easier. In an attempt to prevent leaking from the side of the non-square header face, I also installed a bead of Permatex Optimum Grey on the driver side header face.

OFH3 Specific: To install the header + overpipe, attach the overpipe to the header via the slip fit with the loose clamp over it, and snake the overpipe through the gap. Thread a couple nuts on each header flange to hold it in place. I then slid the overpipe most of the way off the header, installed a thick bead of Permatex Optimum Grey on the header side of the slip fit, and slid the overpipe back over (spoiler alert: the seal didn't hold). Lift the frontpipe back onto the hanger and reinstall (don't tighten) the frontpipe hanger bolt. Install the gasket then bolts to the overpipe - frontpipe interface and snug, don't tighten.

Now that everything's connected, snug all the nuts/bolts. Prior to torquing everything down, make sure everything is aligned and properly flush. Torque the header nuts (22 ft-lbs) alternating nuts and side of the header, then the overpipe to frontpipe (37 ft-lbs but I couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyways). Then torque the frontpipe hangar bolt (37ft-lbs).

I then tightened the clamp for the overpipe/header slip-fit and let the sealant dry for 24hrs. Every thing else was buttoned up (O2 sensor plugs, double checked torqued bolts, and reinstalled base plates). With all that done I reflashed the ECU with the Stage 2OFH flash, excited for my next drive.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw8bI9G4Z8Y"]IMG 1834 - YouTube[/ame]

OFH+OFT Driving impressions...

Open Flash's Header and tune make a noticeable and significant difference. There is quite a bit more power available earlier, and it makes the car even more fun to drive. Additionally, there is a subtle improvement in the exhaust note and a more obvious boxer rumble. I am very happy with the new exhaust sound, and it's not at all too loud with the stock front pipe through catback. I'll post a cabin volume comparison between the stock and OFH in the next few days.

On the con side, I could smell some exhaust in the cabin while driving. I came up with a cheap DIY exhaust leak detecting system. To do this, you need:

-Your wife's/GF's/neighbor's hairdryer
-Packaging tape
-A spray bottle with kids bubble fluid (soapy water may also work)

See the next pic...

On a cold exhaust system...
1) Tape the hairdryer to one of the exhaust tips (I hung the cord above the exhaust to help hold it)
2) Tape off the other exhaust pipe (it doesn't need to be perfect - just enough to put a positive pressure load on the exhaust system)
3) Pour some kids bubble fluid into a spray bottle
4) Turn on the blow dryer
5) Spray suspected leaking connections and look for bubbles. Leaks will be obvious. Wipe off all sprayed areas and repair.
6) Don't forget to remove hair dryer and tape before driving!

Fortunately, even the though header flange wasn't completely flat, the gasket "squish" was sufficient to prevent any leaking. There also were no leaks at the overpipe to front pipe connection. However, there was a big leak at the annoying header to overpipe slip fit.

This last weekend, I made my third attempt to seal the joint. I removed the overpipe from the header, cleaned the connections, and tried using the permatex copper high-temp rtv sealant this time. The below videos are me thinking I finally sealed it - and then realizing there was still a small leak.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYA0TWSAOXs"]IMG 1867 - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFOloYLdXJo"]IMG 1868 - YouTube[/ame]

I tried plugging the top leak with Permatex Muffler/Tailpipe sealer, but it didn't work. I've officially given up for the time being on trying to fix the leak as it is pretty small. My next attempt will likely be with a stepped exhaust clamp like this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/33...SABEgJy9PD_BwE

Prior to buying a catless header, I had some concerns that it would be too loud. Using the free app Decibel X, I recorded the following from normal freeway driving (compare the averages - about 1 dB difference):

While the header has a better note, it's not noticeably louder
(Left is stock, Right is OFH)
Look at the average values (87.9 vs 88.7) - about a 1dB increase. My ear can't tell a difference.

Finally fixed the annoying exhaust leak with the OFH3 header/overpipe slip fit. I bought this clamp from summit racing, cut it to fit around the joint, applied permatex copper sealant, and tightened the clamp. After letting it dry, I did my hair dryer pressure test on the exhaust system, and the leak had finally been fixed (there is still a roughly pin prick size very small leak, but not enough of one to bat an eye at). Very happy to be done battling this thing. Next will be a header wrap.

It seems there's a handful of polarizing debates in the twin community:
FRS vs BRZ
Naturally Aspirated vs Boosted
OpenFlash vs ecutek
Drop-in filter vs Full intake swap
and Header wrap vs none (or ceramic coating) - to name a few

I decided to wrap my OFH for the primary reason of reducing engine compartment temps (especially near the oil pan). I used one 2"x50' roll of DEI titanium wrap.

"Up" is towards the front of the car.

Wheels and wing look awesome! Don't change anything else.

Just got back from my deployment and am excited to start where I'd left off!

I've started doing a lot of reading on OFT tweaking/tuning since returning and seeing the new v4 OTS tunes. Many thanks primarily to @steve99 and @Kodename47 for compiling a massive amount of information for OFT newbies like me. After reading up on datalogging, I performed several 3rd gear pulls. One such example is below:

https://datazap.me/u/viper8/ofh-v1?log=0&data=1-11

(Forgot to log IAM on this pull, will be on future ones)

As you can see, a fair amount of timing is being pulled above 6600rpm. This is on the OpenFlash OTS v1.00 Stage 2OFH on 91 octane. Since this gas has been sitting in the car since before I deployed, I'll wait till I refill, datalog again and reassess. If that doesn't help, I'll probably try the new Stg-2-Plus-v4.03-LC-FSS-ZA1JA01C tune. If still necessary after that I'll try some different brand fuels and then begin modifying tunes.

After much deliberation, I decided to also buy an oil cooler. I had tried convincing myself that I could get by just using a heavier weight oil (0W-30), but the truth is it will be worth the investment in engine life if I continue to track the car. This video definitely played a part in my decision...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDfFJ5s6IDg"]IMG 1867 - YouTube[/ame]

Have you looked at this for an Oil Cooler. OEM+ Cooler

Not trying to talk you out of it but if you run on a smaller track or something that's a bit more technical, a bit heavier weight oil, this cooler and a customized tune to kick the cooling fans on sooner might be enough. Not the same cooling performance but it might be enough. 250F is about the max you want to see for Oil before cool down. You can use OFT to monitor and set an alarm when you hit a certain threshold. I had an oil cooler before but in winter it will take longer for oil to get up to temp plus you run a higher risk to leaks at the fittings IMO vs the OEM+ style one. Also they are alot easier to install and cheaper. BTW Keep up the posts I enjoy reading them.

BTW don't waste your $$$ on an Intake. Most require a MAF re-scale and provide very little performance gains. Save the money. Get a nice Axle back or something that will make you smile more at WOT :)

@jflogerzi thanks for the good info - I haven't heard of that oil cooler. For better or worse I already went with the Mishimoto cooler w/ thermostat and am in the middle of that install as I write this. I'm still going to take your advice and try the OFT warning to monitor oil temps for my next track day. Also, sounds like sage advice on the intake. Everything I've seen agrees with you in that it just isn't worth it.

Speaking of axle backs, how do you like your nameless, and how loud is it?

Per the above, I did buy the Mishimoto oil cooler with thermostat:
https://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-brz...er-kit-13.html
Packaging, fit, and finish were good. Installation details to follow over the next few days...

it's sounds really good windows down. Windows up on flat road its fine and fairly tame under light throttle. Under WOT with Windows up it can be a bit rough. The worst is under highway speeds going up hill. Once in a while it's doable but if I had to deal with on a daily commute not sure I could. I am working on sound clips.

Cool. If you get some sound clips send them over!