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Old 07-24-2012, 01:05 AM   #1
Enigmus
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Aftermarket Crank Pulley Install

I just received my Light Weight Crank Pulley in the mail today. Decided to make a DIY tutorial for those who need a visual walkthrough. The most I've ever done to an engine was change a fuel filter and alternator on an integra years ago. This was a bit of a scary endeavor that worried me but I felt brave enough after carefully reading through the 2 page installation guide provided.

Tools needed:

Flat head screwdriver
Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket wrench
Breaker Bar **
1/2" Torque Wrench**
14mm socket 1/2" Drive
22mm sock 1/2" Drive

** I didn't own my own breaker bar or torque wrench but for a $125 dollar refundable deposit you can borrow one from Autozone!




We will start by loosening the screws circled in blue that holds the intake and resonator tube together. Uncouple the oxygen sensor from the intake as denoted by the green arrow. Then use the 10mm socket to remove screws circled in red the resonator box and air intake (the third screw is to the right and is a bit of a squeeze to reach).

Remove the air intake and then move the tubing off to the right side.


With the intake out of the way you can see the tensioner pulley in blue and the crank pulley in red. We'll have to loosen the belt first by moving the tensioner pulley (note: not removing or loosening the bolt holding the tensioner pulley)


Using the breaker bar and the 14mm socket, turn it clockwise. When you apply leverage with the breaker bar it will move the whole tensioner pulley to the left giving slack to the belt. Slide out the belt from tensioner pulley and let go of the break bar gently. The tensioner pulley will slide back into it's normal spot.


Here is how the belt will look when loosened.


Now make sure the car is in 6th so the crank will not turn when you loosen the bolt. With the breaker arm and the 22mm socket, you will need a good tug counter-clockwise to loosen the bolt. It will feel spongy because of the crank slightly turning but with the car in 6th gear it will not spin freely. Give a good yank.

Word of warning: It will require a bit of force so much so that tennis shoes are required to give you grip. And don't wear a belt or jeans! you'll risk scratching your bumper!

Once it's loosened you can remove and set aside the bolt and crank pulley shown below. Be careful as they will be hot to the touch if you have recently driven your FRS/BRZ!

Admire the differences in weight and finish between the OEM and new crank pulleys!




To install the crank pulley you will have to line up the key hole show above. Make sure the crank pulley is facing the right away with the threading inwards.




In the case of the crank pulley lettering logos should be facing towards the front. With the crank pulley aligned with the keyhold correctly it should not be able to turn freely at all.



Get some motor oil and grease up the threads and flat surface of the bolt head before inserting back into the pulley.




You will need to torque the bolt to 94lbs. Those of you not familiar with torque wrenchs you will turn the black grip until the zero "0" lines up with the 85 marking shown above. You then turn the grip until the 9 is lined up center. 85+9 = 94lbs

I must of forgotten to take a pic of this step but it is pretty straight forward. Using the torque wrench and 22mm socket you tighten it until you feel and hear a distinctive click.




Now you will have to use the breaker bar and 14mm socket and move the tensioner pulley just enough so the belt can reseat onto all the pulleys. It will be a little tough as you seat the belt on one pulley and it comes loose off another pulley. Quite Annoying but use the reference picture below of how the belt should line up.


Inspect the belt and make sure it is seated properly on all the pulleys before reassembling the air intake and resonators in reverse order. Remember to reattach the oxygen sensor or you will get CEL. Start the engine up and watch the crank pulley and belt. If all goes well you have installed an awesome and very affordable upgrade to your FRS/BRZ!

Return breaker bar and torque wrench to autozone and get your money back! Drive back home the long way and laugh maniacally as you wide open throttle every chance you get with your new crank pulley!

Enjoy!








Last edited by Enigmus; 06-10-2013 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:29 AM   #2
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Extremely well written DIY! I installed it last week and did not oil the bolt ..( no instructions with my package), but its all good. I won't be taking it out any time soon.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:50 AM   #3
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why not leave the tension on the belt while you break the bolt loose, once loose then you can adjust the tensioner... this should help keep the crank from moving....

or use the impact to zing it off lol
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigmus View Post
I just received my Perrin Performance Crank Pulley in the mail today. Decided to make a DIY tutorial for those who need a visual walkthrough. The most I've ever done to an engine was change a fuel filter and alternator on an integra years ago. This was a bit of a scary endeavor that worried me but I felt brave enough after carefully reading through the 2 page installation guide provided by Perrin.

Enjoy!
As a Toyota Tech i have to say this is one of the best DIY write ups great job with helping other. I guess that is why we are all apart of this club.


Last edited by 20valvewynn83; 07-25-2012 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:14 AM   #5
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As a Toyota Tech i have to say this is one of the best DIY write ups great job with helping other. I guess that is why we are all apart of this club.

Did you really have to quote the entire diy writeup to say thanks?? Lol jeez I am also very thankful to the OP. My pulley is waiting to go on my BRZ when I take delivery next week! I cant wait!
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:27 AM   #6
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Great DIY write-up...thanks!
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:30 AM   #7
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I saw in the Perrin instructions that it should be torqued to the same value you posted, however the manual says 14.5lbs-ft , then tighten an additional 90*. Anyone know which to go with? I assume turning it an additional 90* brings the force to nearly the same amount, but....

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Old 07-24-2012, 10:37 AM   #8
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NIce write up thanks to the op
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATL BRZ View Post
Did you really have to quote the entire diy writeup to say thanks?? Lol jeez I am also very thankful to the OP. My pulley is waiting to go on my BRZ when I take delivery next week! I cant wait!
Sorry bro didn't realise I did that.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:15 PM   #10
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So what kind of difference are you seeing with this pully. Awesome write up.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:35 PM   #11
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is the perrin pulley balanced for the car? the oem balancer should be perfectly balance and i was curious if this new one would throw it off at all. anyone know by chance?
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftartist View Post
is the perrin pulley balanced for the car? the oem balancer should be perfectly balance and i was curious if this new one would throw it off at all. anyone know by chance?
From what someone posted in another thread, the Perrin crank pulley is not balanced. However, no one has mentioned any problems with it, yet.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:26 PM   #13
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I have a feeling this probably didn't give you close to 27whp LOL
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:13 PM   #14
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I have a feeling this probably didn't give you close to 27whp LOL
You need a lightweight flyweight AND the pulley, dummy!
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:43 PM   #15
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You need a lightweight flyweight AND the pulley, dummy!
OH RIGHTTTTTT
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by sportsguy83 View Post
Extremely well written DIY! I installed it last week and did not oil the bolt ..( no instructions with my package), but its all good. I won't be taking it out any time soon.
I doubt you needed to oil it anyways since it's practically a brand new engine but it's probably for peace of mind. How are you liking the new pulley?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumbrown View Post
why not leave the tension on the belt while you break the bolt loose, once loose then you can adjust the tensioner... this should help keep the crank from moving....

or use the impact to zing it off lol
I don't know about leaving the tension on when i break the bolt loose, but it's already stiff with it in 6th gear. Yes an impact gun is easier but a breaker bar would be easier to get access to for the rest of us without a nice gun and compressor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
As a Toyota Tech i have to say this is one of the best DIY write ups great job with helping other. I guess that is why we are all apart of this club.

thanks! I hope it really helps people avoid mishaps and share any tips and criticisms I may have left out!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ATL BRZ View Post
Did you really have to quote the entire diy writeup to say thanks?? Lol jeez I am also very thankful to the OP. My pulley is waiting to go on my BRZ when I take delivery next week! I cant wait!
haha he can always re-edit and remove the img /img tags. congrats on your brz! drive it stock and maybe break it in before you install the pulley?

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Great DIY write-up...thanks!
you're welcome!

Quote:
Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I saw in the Perrin instructions that it should be torqued to the same value you posted, however the manual says 14.5lbs-ft , then tighten an additional 90*. Anyone know which to go with? I assume turning it an additional 90* brings the force to nearly the same amount, but....

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the way torque works is it is not additive. you just push until you hear a click. The whole initial 33lbs part and note the 45 degree turn I think applies to older worn engines. The bolt is practically new I don't think you need to worry about replacing it unless you fubar'd it. maybe someone can clear it up for us?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vino View Post
NIce write up thanks to the op
thanks, I will clean it up a bit and add missing pictures and steps when I do some local pulley installs for whoever needs them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
Sorry bro didn't realise I did that.
try re-editing it and removing everything I wrote

Quote:
Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda View Post
So what kind of difference are you seeing with this pully. Awesome write up.
So far the first three gears feel... "peppy" it certainly feels more nimble and quicker to get me to 5k-7.4k range. I'll have to drive more spirited. I've never hoped for more red lights before.. lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by driftartist View Post
is the perrin pulley balanced for the car? the oem balancer should be perfectly balance and i was curious if this new one would throw it off at all. anyone know by chance?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwood9000 View Post
From what someone posted in another thread, the Perrin crank pulley is not balanced. However, no one has mentioned any problems with it, yet.
I haven't heard of anyone having catastrophic damages done on the forums.. and I believe Perrin to be highly regarded by the Nasioc community. Yes there will be those .01% failure rates but it's the risk we take for the enjoyment of our cars!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda View Post
I have a feeling this probably didn't give you close to 27whp LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
You need a lightweight flyweight AND the pulley, dummy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda View Post
OH RIGHTTTTTT
LOL *cough* keep it clean guys. don't wanna start a new fresh thread now...
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigmus View Post
I haven't heard of anyone having catastrophic damages done on the forums.. and I believe Perrin to be highly regarded by the Nasioc community. Yes there will be those .01% failure rates but it's the risk we take for the enjoyment of our cars!
Regarding "balance" of the crank pulley: most engine configurations vibrate to hell, in order to lessen this manufacturers often have a dual purpose crank pulley. That is, the crank pulley also acts as a harmonic dampener to reduce the vibrations inherent to the engine design. Recall, I said most engine designs have vibrations; the horizontal/opposed-piston/flat engine does NOT. Therefore, the pulley doesn't need to act as a harmonic dampener. When queried about this in the early 2000s, SOA stated that the pulley was NOT a harmonic dampener. So people should stop talking about balance.

Issues seen with crank pulleys in Subaru applications typically manifest as misfires or ghost misfires/CELs, usually when used in conjunction with lightweight flywheels.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:52 PM   #18
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Wow, compared to my friend's Si that we'll be changing that crank pulley on, this is a breeze! Thanks for the write up!
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:08 PM   #19
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Sorry bro didn't realise I did that.

lol... edit your post where you quoted the WHHOLE thing.. and remove the images so this is readable.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:59 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
When queried about this in the early 2000s, SOA stated that the pulley was NOT a harmonic dampener. So people should stop talking about balance.
Wrong... A pulley can still be unbalanced without the shape of the material being the cause. Think of the reason you get a wheel balanced when you change tyres - it's to make sure the whole wheel is balanced around the central axis. A poorly balanced wheel can shudder and vibrate while driving, it can also reduce the life of things like wheel bearings and suspension bushes as a result... However, due to the relatively small inertia of the pulley compared to the crank, and the fact that the pulley is probably not far out of balance in the first place, it shouldn't matter.

As for the adding oil to the thread of the crank bolt, also a bad idea.. Adding oil modifies the friction of the threads, meaning you overtorque the bolt (as with the oil you have to tighten the bolt more until the same torque registers on the torque wrench). You should not add oil unless it was stated in the install instructions.

Finally, in general, when a bolt is told to be torqued to a certain torque spec, and then turned through another angle, it is generally not good to reuse that bolt. The extra turn usually causes the bolt to undergo plastic deformation - ie. the bolt stretches (as with head studs/bolts), which has usually been done when the pulley was first installed from factory. This will probably not matter either.. I'm sure Perrin would have done their research when they came up with the instructions.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:00 AM   #21
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:10 AM   #22
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You should not add oil unless it was stated in the install instructions.
Perrin's instructions call for oiling it.
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