Will this flywheel work with OEM clutch?
 

TOB is done on my car

While I'm fixing it, I bought a brand new clutch and wondering if this lightweight flywheel is compatible with the OE clutch

They are both made by exedy

http://www.lmperformance.com/856993/...2013-2016.html


The flywheel

I don't see why not ....... but, I would suggest you contact Exedy and ask them ...... :)


humfrz

thanks i will check with them tomorrow.

I'm surprised there aren't more reviews of people installing LWFWs on this car... can't weight to have this one on...hopefully... if it fits

If you daily your car, I bet you lunch you'll grow to hate it within a month.

So true. Keep stock flywheel.

just curious, why? what difference does it make in the drive-ability?

Lot of shudder.

It's easier to stall or slip the clutch, you need to have more precise clutching ability. That said I had zero issues daily driving a '90 Integra RS with an 8lb ACT prolite racing flywheel, actually liked it much better than stock, way more responsive to throttle input. Also depowered /unvalved the steering rack and put in a smaller diameter steering wheel... wasn't an ideal daily driver but was fun and quick in response! Plan to put a TRD lightweight flyweel in my FR-S soon, TOB is starting to complain more these days...

The stock flywheel is already as light as reasonably possible. Firing pulses are clearly felt well past 2000 RPM. That's not trivial. Lightening the flywheel increases that effect, making idle rougher and low speed operation more annoying than it already is.

I would love to have a sharp responsive powerplant that feels like a straight-4 liter bike but that's just not what this engine does well.

Read all this as my opinion. I've considered, and talked myself out of a light flywheel many times.

One purpose of a flywheel is to smooth out the engine pulses. The lighter the flywheel the rougher the engine feels, especially at lower speeds. Usually, engines with fewer cylinders need larger (heavier) flywheels.

Check the flywheel on the side of this two banger pow-pow JD tractor ...... :D


OK, I'm done ............:bonk:


humfrz

Thank you Ultra, for getting rid of the idea of me getting a light weight flywheel in the future. :confused0068:

Backed with real reason, understanding & experience. :cheers:

humfrz: i wonder if i can retrofit those rear wheels of tractor in pic. Will i need to roll fenders and increase camber to not rub? :)
Such wheels may certainly reduce spending on tires!

Oooh @Ultramaroon it's not that bad! The stock flywheel is 28 lbs!

I put a 13lb flywheel in at 3000 miles and have driven it for 32k. You do need to get a little used to the needing to rev slightly higher from a stop to get going, but as long as you have good throttle control it's fine. Idle and other things are not bad at all. Totally tolerable. I'm also at a mile high elevation.

The best additional mod that leveled all of this out was a 4.88 FD. Made everything feel more like "stock", except quicker all around.

Really in the end it depends on OP's future goals and mods. It's always good to have a "vision" of what you want your car to be and how you want it to act.

Believe it or not, I saw one of these do a tractor pull this past October! Cider Days in Colorado baby!

I changed my stock flywheel with a 11lbs one. I was expecting this to become a nightmare to daily but I was doing it for the easier/faster revmatching. I will tell you right now, that if you dont lurch the car with the stock flywheel, you wont with lightweight one, its not as bad as people make it out to be, and boy does it feel good when rowing thru gears up or down.

I put a light weight flywheel in my 91 Talon TSI. I very quickly removed the light weight flywheel from my 91 Talon TSI. I am firmly in the camp of it is more of a pain for a DD than it is worth. It was very nice to bring the revs up fast but it totally sucked at maintaining them as soon as you let off the gas.

Can confirm.

The TF02 will work with the original clutch and the FJK1005 OE replacement from EXEDY. The TF02 has the same dimensions as the OE flywheel.

I’ve read negative reviews about light flywheels on every car I’ve ever put one on yet I did it anyways and never regretted it and never found them that hard to deal with. Your revs do go up and down quicker so your timing needs to change but it takes no time at all to adjust. I’ve never had problems with stalling either. I plan to do a flywheel on my FRS when it’s time to do the clutch.

Funny you mention that because my next mod is the Cusco 4.56 FD

They compliment each other very well :)

Then you add full exhaust and a tune and you'll be very happy.

I'm doing the opposite. I'm going to be removing my lightweight ACT flywheel and going back to stock flywheel with a performance clutch (South Bend Clutch Stage 2). I don't care for the ACT clutch.

do you need a tune in order for the flywheel to idle and rev correctly in low rpms

Now THAT brings on a back-in-the-day story.

It was a hot day in August at the Clinton County, Ohio fairgrounds. My grandfather had taken me to the fair and we stopped to watch the tractor pull contest. Now, this was back when the tractors were just stock farm tractors.

At the finals, this "pow-pow" John Deere tractor hooked up to the sled and started off ..... pow-pow-pow-pow. As the weight was increased it went pow...pow...pow. Just when we thought it was all done ....... it let out one more POW ...... and won the contest.

Bonus side story. Guess what they used to drag the sled back to the start line..?? Yep, a 50 year old steam tractor ....... with the throttle barely cracked .......:thumbsup:

THE END


humfrz

:cheers: OP needed to hear both sides of the argument and I knew you guys would jump my shit in a New York minute. As long as he understands that there are real trade-offs, my work here is done. ;)

Nope, doesn't need anything special. Just bolt that bad boy on and go.

Well, if you do, be sure to order them with the racing cleats.

Yep, they are great for off road ...... but they ride a bit harsh on pavement .....:eyebulge:


humfrz

My opinion is that a LWFW is a mod that you will notice for the first month or so you drive and as time goes on your become familiar and the affects are not as noticeable.

LWFW will make the car a little more prone to stalling if your clutch technique isn't perfect. This can make stop and go driving even more tedious than it already is. That said, it won't cause clutch shudder (contaminated friction surfaces or warping causes that). And while it won't make an ounce more power, it does make the motor more responsive, so it feels more lively. It can also make fast upshifts a bit easier on synchros. And of course, there's the plain static weight reduction off the heavy end of the car. If you're already in there doing clutch work and want to make the car feel 'sportier', it's kind of a no brainer.

Kind of like a turbo.

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/exed...2013-ft86.html

* Racing flywheels are compatible with Stage 1 Organic, Stage 2 Sports and Stage 2 Racing clutches.

Yea those are a bitch to cold start and that’s probably 75-100# flywheel. My model A had at least 80# I used that for antique tractor pulls. The b had probably 30-40# omg what a diff it made nothing runs like a JD:w00t:

ahhhh ....... haaaaaa ........ another old farm boy ..??

Yep, starting a model A JD on a cold morning had it's challenges. Set the gas, open the petcocks, set the choke, spin the flywheel ........ and hope the hell that sucker didn't flood before it started ...... not a job for the weak wristed.

Oh, yes, nothing runs like a deere ..... :thumbsup:

What year was your model A .. ??


humfrz

It is worth it in my opinion, doesn't really make it that much harder to drive.

We’re closer than you think my dad was from upper Sandusky Ohio. So I was always down there. The A is 1937 and the B is a 1939. Yea always stand a bit back from the petcock so you don’t get oil spray on your pants when starting. The B we rebuilt from the literally ground up as it was my grate grand parents and was sitting rusting in there yard. It was a gift my grandfather,me my dad and brother spent the summer break restoring for my grandma. The A my grandpa got as a retirement gift everyone at JD chipped in and :cheers:got him when he retired as a mechanic after almost 30+years. I would pull the A it had more pow pow lol. If I rember it had duel fuel so kerosene and gas easier to start on gas but I think it ran longer on the kerosine although I could have that backwards. Man that takes me back. :cheers:

Fer sure, fer sure. My father, grandfather and great grandfather were farmers in southern Ohio.

The oldest tractor I remember was a 1940 something Oliver 70, with all steel wheels. Yep, that was a bitch to hand crank to start. I would set up a 5 gallon can beside the crank, set the crank, jump off the can onto the crank, remembering not to wrap my thumb around the crank handle and hope the hell I got my arm out of the way in case it kicked back ...... :eyebulge:

Welcome, folks to the .......... Old Tractor Channel ........ :happyanim:


humfrz

You'll like it if you use auto-blip/heel-toe for downshifting. Rev matches much faster.

For the record, any OE replacement flywheel (same weight or lighter) can work with any OE replacement clutch.

In other words: If the flywheel or clutch kit does not require you to get a matching pressure plate or flywheel to use with, you can use it.

Whoot whoot:threadjacked: lol love the tractor channel hehe

I think it really comes down to preference some like it some have trouble with it. Same with clutch springs and women some like it hard some like it soft. Since it dose not supply more power it really dose come down to preference. Find a friend that has one and test it see if you like it as long as it’s the clutch/flywheeland not there woman you should be good. There is no real need for it for daily driving.