Oil filter part number change, both #s deconstructed.
 

Like many I went to change my oil after a breakin period of about 1600 km, or 1000 miles. I logged on here and went looking for the filter part number and was surprised to see that the number had already changed. From what was posted it the new filter was taller but narrower then the old part number.

This got me thinking, (I know, I made sure to disconnect the smoke detectors.) about why FHI would change it. From my experience in the automotive world, normally things are changed for two reasons, cost or safety. And the latter only happens when someone finds out.

So, I picked up a new filter and kept my old filter so I could compare the differences. I used a chisel to separate the filters to avoid generating debris. What I found didn't really shock me much to be honest.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9.../IMG_02291.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...IMG_0230-1.jpg

The filters look like most, no big surprises. The anti drain back gaskets feel identical except the outside diameter of course and did an excellent job of holding the old oil in when the filter was removed.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...e/IMG_0236.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...e/IMG_0231.jpg

The bypass spring tensions felt identical as well. And both seem to have identical travel, though I couldn't get a pic of either with only two hands. One thing I don't like is that the oil will wash over the filter media before it reaches the bypass. So any debris caught has a much higher chance of getting put back into the system if/when the bypass opens. The other thing I don't like is how small the opening to the bypass is and even worse the outlet from it. The hole in the middle of the pic immediately above is what the oil has to flow through once the bypass opens.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...e/IMG_0237.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...e/IMG_0241.jpg

When I bought the new filter I found out the torque sequences have changed. I'd attribute that to the differences in the seals. The new seal is thicker and more pliable. The old one seems very firm though I highly doubt there would be any chance of it leaking aside from being installed incorrectly. Personally I prefer the old seal, but the new seal would be more idiot proof.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...e/IMG_0234.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g9...e/IMG_0235.jpg

Then we get to the filter media itself. The new filter has seven less pleats (63 vs 56) and the pleats are much shallower. (If you know how to read a vernier scale, go for it but I'm not explaining it over the internet. I mainly did this for illustration purposes) I must say, I'm not enthralled with the change. The filter media seems to be the same, but there's a lot less of it. This tells me they did this to save cost.

I'm going to investigate getting my hands on some of the old part number filters because this change is only going to shorten the life of the filter before media gets clogged and it starts to bypass.

One thing that did impress me was the complete lack of visible debris in the used filter.

Thanks for the detailed writeup. I'd like to see how the new Wix 57830 compares.

Very interesting. I'll be replacing my filters every oil change, so I'm not worried about capacity. Also, a filter magnet will help reduce debris making it though the bypass.

Thanks for that. I should pick up a case of the 130s when I'm near the Subi dealer on Monday.

Considering the ease of changing the filter I will be changing the filter between oil changes. I don't plan on changing my oil every 3k, closer to 5-6k so I'll change my filter every 3k.

I'm thinking the same thing.

Sure is a lot easier to do that with it up on top. :) not a bad idea.

Maybe I'll buy a 6 pack of filters off of one of the OEM parts websites.

the old ones, of course. :)

This is great info to know! How would these OEM filters compare to aftermarket oil filters like Mobil1 or Purlator? Mobil1 seems to make quality filters.. is it even worth it to buy OEM filters now?

i had my oil changed at a subaru dealership 2 weeks ago and they used the old style filter.

this may sound like a dumb question, but did you pick up the correct filter? did the dealer say that was the proper filter for the brz/frs?

It would be helpful to know where you got the filter. Seeing as at Toyota it's an extra 4-5 dollars that may have been a reason for Toyota to change part numbers.

One came on the car, the other I bought at a local sub's dealership.

Toyota didn't change the part number, Subaru did. It's a Subaru part. I'm not sure why Toyota wants s much for the filter, here it's 2.5 times more at Toyota then Subaru but its th exact same filter.

Just for kicks and giggles... I used Purolator's website to cross reference vehicle applications and the Purolator Oil Filter for the 86 is the same as the one for the S2000. PL14459. However, when doing a little research over at NASIOC, apparently a Purolator rep said that the PL14460 should be used instead as it has a better drainback properties and bypass valve psi rating.

Ironically, I run the PCX-004 (JDM part#) s2000 oil filter on my CRX road race car and I think I might just use that on my FRS since I buy them in bulk and it's known to be a very very good filter.

http://againstlineofdance.files.word...oreyouknow.jpg

Yes, it was the correct filter as specified in the TSB for the oil filter part number change.

I don't this is the first automotive filter I've taken apart.

That bypass rating thing bugs the crap out of me. Everyone seems to think that having the bypass valve set to open at a higher psi then most engines will somehow help something. But let's think about this. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump who's output pressure is regulated by a pressure control valve. Meaning the pressure leaving the pump will be constant once the engine RPMs are sufficient that the control valve is operating.

Next up, the bypass valve does not work on oil system pressure, it works on filter differential pressure. That means that the bypass valve doesn't open until the oil filter is dropping sufficient pressure to cause the valve to open.

Now, when you put those two things together you get the oil leaving the pump and heading for the oil filter where the pressure is dropped and then to the rest of the system. If these filters drop more pressure before the bypass valve opens, then the oil pressure making it to the bearings, lifters, etc., when you are nearing the end of the filters life, is lower then in other filter designs.

Personally, I'd rather have a filter that has enough filter media so that it doesn't need to have a higher then normal bypass pressure in order to make it through the service interval before it opens.

Okay okay okay... Calm down. I got it wrong. Good info on the bypass stuff though. :w00t:

Just a few things to clear the air and hopefully cool your jets.

1st: Purolator makes decent filters and really, aren't most filters, if changed often, good enough? We're not talking about 10,000 mile intervals here.

2nd: While the difference between the PL14459 and PL14460 part number is indeed the bypass pressure, the reason the purolator rep recommended the 60 over the 59 had nothing to do with the pressure but with the fact that the 59, in that if it was installed wrong (over tightened a little) it damaged something in the filter pretty easily and the 60 didn't have this "shortcoming". I'm sorry I left out this detail, doing so clearly affected your blood pressure... so, my bad. I'm also to lazy to re-google that thread.


Since I already have sponsorship with the local Honda dealer I'm probably just going to use the same Honda filters on my FRS that I use on the race car.

Sorry, you didn't piss me off. And you're by no means the first person that has mentioned the bypass pressure rating. It's the people that passed on the info about the bypass rating and tried to sell it as good, instead of as a cost saving measure and a means to extend the service interval of way too small filters that pissues me off.

Yes, most filters if changed often are good. The question is, what is often enough. You should never notice a difference in power after an oil change and certainly not at 1000 kms early, but both happened with my impreza before this (08 2.5i). Those blue filters shouldn't be used for more then about 3500 kms in my opinion and looking at the size of these, they aren't much better.

I don't know anything about either of those filters, please post pics and any info you have. Really, I should measure the threads and gasket and try to find the largest filter I can get on there.

Filter confirmation?
 

HI Guys

This internal deconstruction is super handy, thanks for doing that.. I was reading on another forum (aussie forum) that the reason the 130 filter was superceded was to do with :

"Of note, the subaru 130 filter has been supersceded in japan and for those in the know on the FB2x engines because of its volume. Filter drains, when engine re starts it fires without the filter being able to fill and get oil into the crank journals."

The user who posted this mentioned in Japan it was superceded with the 160 filter.

Is anyone able to verify this? i.e. whether in Japan they use the 160, and part of the change is to do with oil not getting into the engine when it restarts early enough?

Thanks!

So what is the correct Toyota part #, both old & new? There is a Subaru filter on it now. I was given a Toyota SU003-00311 is that correct? The price was list $11.47 net $7.50. I was charged the net amount. There seemed to be some confusion at the parts counter.

THIS is the filter you want. The Subaru 15208AA130 is the black "Made in Japan" filter manufactured by Tokyo Roki and the very same filter that came on your car from the factory. The blue one (some) dealers try to give out is the cheap piece of shit made by Fram.

You can also use the taller 160, but I see no reason to change. Not exactly sure where kharn83 is getting his info, but AFAIK, there is nothing wrong with the 130's. If there were, I would imagine someone would have alerted us to change it and that new cars wouldn't still come with 130's.

In any event, buy the filters at Subaru. I'm told Toyota are just reboxing the same filter and charging more money for it. 130's are still available, they are the same filter used pn the 2.2 NA Foresters.

Thanks! The Subaru dealer is right across the street from the Toyota dealer.

Toyota Part #
 

FYI The repackaged Subaru filter is in a Toyota box with part # SU003-00311. This is the 15208AA130 that comes on the car, but as you said it is a little more at the Toyota dealer.

i did charged at 25 USD for a genuine filter from Toyota dealer...... well if its not for warranty...

Nice thread I don't trust the new filter, I know I should.

Since you have them apart can u comment on wall thickness?

I use kn hp 1004 on mine. If I send you mine, you wanna take it apart?

I haven't checked this thread is ages, for some reason I decided to check it again today.

Gem, if you ever get on here, I'd be happy to tear apart that filter. PM me for an address.

I haven't checked this thread is ages, for some reason I decided to check it again today.

Gem, if you ever get on here, I'd be happy to tear apart that filter. PM me for an address.

Hey gang, Ralleysport sold me these oil filters for my FR-S, http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Suba...FdBi7AodkHAAvw . Are those the right part? Are they crap?

2015 BRZ now at 6k oil change intervals
 

Kind of an old thread, but did anyone notice that the 2015 Subaru models now have 6k oil change intervals, down from 7,500 for the 2014? That's like 20% less miles, at least according to the owner's manual.

It would make sense if the new filters has less surface area and holds less debris and junk. 7 less pleats and more swallow. I can't see the vernier readings on the pictures, but if it was half the height, that would equate to 20% less surface area.

Does anyone have actual pricing on the oil filters, regardless if it's 130 or 160? I can find the Subaru at ~$7.85, but I can't find the Toyota/Scion version.
Since this was a thread about cost reductions for the filters, maybe Toyobaru can be nice and take 20% off the price of oil filters :thumbup:

Is this a general trend where Subaru parts are cheaper, but service is more expensive?

Just comparing oil changes at the dealership, Subaru tends to be 40% more expensive than Toyota, assuming you can't get underneath the car to change it yourself.

bumping this thread as it took me FOREVER to find it.

Doing the first oil change on my GR, our parts department now stocks the JAPAN made oil filters, AS WELL as the TAIWAN built. The parts look up now lists the Japan made for GR86

The toyota Canada part number for the japanese built oil filter is SU003-08412, and printed on it is 15208AA130, the same oil filters this and the first generation came with from the factory

But the 2nd gen filter is now the 170 that the WRX uses.

Wait...so Toyota Canada says we should use -130 on the ZN8, but Subaru of America says to use -170 on the ZD8? Is that right?
I'm sure either are functionally fine, but if I ever need warranty work done on the engine I want to cover my butt and use what Subaru of America specs.