Crank No start (Not battery issue) NEED HELP
 

HELP!!! my car (2013 Subaru BRZ Limited Auto) was running the other day, and suddenly stall out on me on the freeway, now it crank over but doesn't start, the only code that was stored prior to the incident is P0031 and P0560. Any info lead to fixing would be appreciated

- replaced the O2 Sensor
- Check Battery and replaced

Car was running on Fwy then lost power = stall out didnt start after that

Fully stock?
Engine mods?

Hi Tcoat, Yes Engine is fully stock no mod

Just check the Alternator still good and charging battery 11.6v
Battery measure at 12.6v
Compression on all Cylinder is within spec at 135 PSI

Check all the relay and Fuses non blown or damage

Some picture of the spark plug, look very odd with some flake. Going to replace them but does anyone know what wrong with it, doesn't look like loctite to me

[IMG]<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/cnxmist/embed/slideshow/spark%20plug"></iframe>[/IMG]

Plugs are perfect. Just clean them before reinserting. Just combustion byproducts baked into the threads.

Without doing any tests, I'll guess alternator. Your voltages are low.

https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...00T8P0ZQX.html

I will replace the alternator tomorrow and get back to you, what else can I check?

Do yourself a favor- you do not know how to diagnose. You are throwing parts blindly at the problem hoping to fix the issue you don't know. TAKE IT TO A SHOP and have them diagnose. You have no clue whether the alternator is any good because you can't even get the engine going. You blindly changed out an O2 sensor (did you even replace it with the right one?) and for some reason you are looking at plugs. Batt voltage is good but what's the CCA? Who cares anyway, that won't cause a car to stall.

YOU are going to run out of money before you run out of parts and you've already wasted a bunch of money anyway. Pay a pro to find the issue. Then you can change out the parts once you know what parts to change out.

You haven't even checked fuel pressure SMDH

I recommend against blind replacement as well. That was just a suggestion for a place to consider. Sorry about not being more clear.

Nothing wrong with pulling the alternator and having it tested. Most auto parts places can throw it onto a machine and check it.

Is timing chain still intact ? Does it sound like it normally does when cranking or faster and easier ?

22R

It would appear that your alternator may be bad.

The voltage at the battery with the engine running should be around 13.5 volts.


http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm


humfrz

Car won't start.

P0560 - System Voltage Malfunction

Repair Importance Level: 3/3
Repair Difficulty Level: 3/3 https://ccc089c1e43bd6e5aa25-bfcce39...n.com/help.jpg




https://ccc089c1e43bd6e5aa25-bfcce39....com/xicon.jpg
Possible causes

• Low battery charge
• Battery defective
• Loose or missing alternator drive belt
• Faulty alternator
• Open or short system voltage circuit
  
  
  Quote:

  Originally Posted by Ultramaroon (Post 2952439) Without doing any tests, I'll guess alternator. Your voltages are low. https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...00T8P0ZQX.html

Yes^


Really? Jump to the timing chain? There would be 100 codes if that was the case.


Again with people going to worst case and skipping every other possible solution. Sorry to be abrupt but this is a pet peeve of mine. Maybe once other more basic things have been checked it would get to that but random, out of the blue, guesses send people into panic mode and wastes time in wild goose chases.

@guybo yes it true that I don't know what I'm doing, that the whole reason why I requested assistance for other board members to point me in the right direction, and wanted to know the cause, I do know that I order a car to start its need compression spark fuel and timing.

Also by no mean I change out parts blindly, when a member pointed out that the alternator might be bad I will look into the parts and test prior to replace.

I already eliminated fuel as the pump still function, there fuel pressure and the fuse is not blown.

I'm here requesting for assistance to fix the issue at hand any opinion that point me to fixing the issue with be appreciated, but if the comment that just " bring it to a shop" or "you don't know what your doing" is not helpful

As odd as this sounds you should hope it is indeed the alternator that is the issue. As the code info I posted above says the other possible source is an "open or short system voltage circuit" and that could be a real bitch to chase down.

I was just going by what the OP posted yesterday ....... which indicated he had checked the voltage the alternator was putting out.

"Hi Tcoat, Yes Engine is fully stock no mod

Just check the Alternator still good and charging battery 11.6v
Battery measure at 12.6v
Compression on all Cylinder is within spec at 135 PSI

Check all the relay and Fuses non blown or damage"


:iono:


humfrz

11.6 is low voltage for an altenator but not low enough that the car would stall. You'd get the check charging system light. But that is only voltage, do you have open phase or bad diodes? How's the ripple?

What is the fuel pressure? the fuel pump working only tells you if the in-tank fuel pump is working, but what about the HPFP? What's the pressure? Insufficient pressure from a working fuel pump will cause the car to stall out.

@ Guybo Thank for the lead, I'll get those check out

How exactly are you measuring 11.6 from the alternator if it won't start?

I caught that too but let it go earlier - quick reading breaks.

So, for funzies I just disconnected the accessory belt and started it to prove it would run on battery alone. Didn't want to assume it would.

OP, does the starter crank over the engine like the battery has a full charge? If yes, it's not the alternator because the charging circuit and battery are fine.

somebody mentioned something about removing the alternator from the car to test it so I figured that's what he did. I should hope he knew enough not to get a voltage when the engine was cranking over but not starting.

With the batt voltage being good, it wasn't the alternator that made the car stall. The car would run until the volatge got so low it could not provide spark then die. The low voltage CEL is a red herring. That CEL probably came up after the car died. We really need more info from that CEL on what the car was doing when the CEL came up- but you need a better scan tool than a bluetooth code reader for that.