Ignition coil questions
 

2014 BRZ. I encountered P0352 error code at my last track day, ignition coil B. After turning off the car and checking back a few hours later, the code went away. The code hasn't returned after commuting for a couple weeks. Two questions:

1. What typically happens after an ignition coil error code? Can it be a one off thing or does it usually indicate that the ignition coil is on its way to failure? Would it be wise to replace it before my next track event?

2. I'm seeing three part numbers from Subaru's website. Does it matter whether or not the part number exactly matches the other ignition coils? Should I use the highest part number?

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-090-01.html

The part numbers are:

22433AA650
22433AA651
22433AA652

In for details. I had this code show up the other day beating on it on the expressway. Odd it didn't show during any track events. But showed up on the expressway for me. I ended up clearing it since it didn't affect the way it drove. Hasn't come back since. But I'm interested to see what others have to say.

Just speculating here ...... I reckon the COP just gets so hot under certain conditions, that it skips a beat and triggers a code.

If your car is subjected to those conditions very often, you may wish to replace the coil.

If not, I would suggest just leaving it alone.

Back-in-the-day, changing the coil was a 1/2 beer job ...... one screw, two nuts, pull the coil wire.....slap the new one on, hook it up .......and finish your beer.......:cheers:


humfrz

You can clear the code but it will typically come back. The last time my car threw a P0351 code at the track, I was data-logging and could see significant knock above 6000 RPM (-4 to -5 FLKC) once the coil went bad. Personally I'd replace the coil rather than risk detonation like that in hot track conditions. Cheap insurance. No need to match PN's - use the latest revision.

If you decide not to change out the coil, I'd highly recommend data-logging to make sure you're not getting severe detonation at the track.

We see this pretty frequently in 86s at the track. It's time to change the coil pack. Use the latest part number for the model year of your car.

good to know. it's been awhile since I did a datalog. When you got yours did you get a CEL and traction control light turn on? I only got the CEL. I'll have to do some googling for the coil p/n... thanks for the info

edit: found the p/n from OP. and SHIEET 100+ dollars for a coil??? better than a blown engine I suppose.

I suggest you also wrap all 4 coils, just to help deflect any extra heat generated. I have noticed this more on UEL cars then EL cars, you can also swap the coil to another slot after clearing the CEL and see if it returns. I did the latter, and it kept happening so I purchased 4 new ones and wrapped them before installing, haven't had the issue yet and I DD the car and have had 5 track days so far with 0 CEL.

Just my .02

If I remember correctly, the first time I got both CEL and TC lights. The second time (when I was data-logging), just the CEL.

Any differences in between the two? I mean a code is a code and I'm going to fix it, just curious out of my own knowledge. I also plan on heat wrapping it just like someone else suggested.

also for P0353, is it safe to assume the last "3" in the code indicates cylinder 3? I think this is the passenger side, further back cylinder? thanks for everyone's input.

I don't think I'm ready to drop the money on all 4 coils, but definitely something to consider to see if the code follows the coil. interesting with the UEL, as I have a UEL header. I did some googling and DEI came up. Any suggestions for gold tape brands?

No idea what the difference is between the two. You are correct for P0353. For reference here is a diagram showing cylinder location:

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...xerCutaway.jpg

amazing. thank you! very helpful I always end up googling this every time since I forget. I wonder if mine got triggered due to my nasty over pipe leak. I have a 3 inch JDL over front pipe, so maybe since the pipe is bigger, it's closer to the coil, plus i had a nasty leak... I will take multiple datalogs to see if it's knocking before I buy a new one though. I still may buy one anyways to be safe.

I would stick with wrapping 1st, if you still have issues or a specific coil you move around causes the cell the "move" with it. Then replace.

I found whatever was cheap at Autozone, make sure you buy a roll not a sheet. I am still FI and don't think the gold wrap makes a difference in quality until you see VERY high (turbo) heat levels. I picked up a single roll, pulled all 4 and wrapped the hell out of it. Still, have a TON of the roll left.

No problem! When you're data-logging, make sure it's in track conditions (or something close to that). I only saw the knock at the track when everything was hot and the tach north of 6000 RPM.

finally figured out how to multi-quote so i don't double post after a few years.. haha derp

ok good to know. This might be a dumb question, when you wrap it you are wrapping only the square part at the top right and around the sides? I do have a supercharger, so that may also contribute to hotter temps.

I think what I will do is go on the expressway and just beat on it. accelerate like there's a straight away, redline, slow down and repeat. I know my oil temp gets to around 260 with an oil cooler on track so I'll know that it'll be hot enough by that point to simulate track conditions.

I do really appreciate everyone's help. i guess I'll report back for everyone else's sake.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2808950

This is the ignition coil mega thread. It's a long read, but it has all the steps on how to get to each coil and a great image of the wrap.

Once you see it you're going to be pissed you HAVE to buy a large roll, you can also wrap the battery location, firewall area fuel lines, brake master etc. and anything you want to deflect any added heat from the S/C.

I believe when the slip light comes with the CEL that means the car is reducing engine power to preserve the engine, which would make perfect sense if knock is a consequence, "coil doesn't fire - charge auto-ignites, i.e. knocks - ecu freaks out - figures out it's a coil issue & throws code - reduces power" which has me a bit worried as my car has definitely slowed on track in association with the code.

I haven't been back to the track in over a year since I got that code, never replaced the coil, CEL hasn't returned. You bet your ass I'll swap it before I go back to the track, especially after @DarkSunrise mentioned knock, hell I'm tempted to just swap all four when the time has come, my car's at 58k and I've already replaced one, maybe the new ones will be a bit stouter.

This is why I replaced all 4 the 1st time I had the issue. If it happens again, ill go with the Cusco ones but they are $$$$

great, thank you for all your help. I'll look into that thread.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I didn't get the slip light and I only got the CEL. I'm thinking I'm going to datalog and look out for knock passed 6k rpm. Otherwise, I may just replace it just for peace of mind.... thanks for the detailed explanation.

Does anyone have a picture or instructions on wrapping the coils in gold tape? And what kind of gold tape to use? I have no clue what kind of gold tape to buy or how/where to wrap it on the coil

I've seen people recommend DEI gold tape: https://www.amazon.com/010396-Reflec.../dp/B0039Z5TYU

I haven't wrapped my coils, but I've used this one for other engine bay wraps.. it's thicker but has slightly better heat resistance: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFN3DU