Boost supporting mods for the street
 

About to pull the trigger on a JDL kit. But first what supporting mods for the motor will I need To safely run 8psi 10-12 max.

Besides the basics (mounts, catch can, oil cooler)

Anything I should be aware of?

A proper tune and boost gauge. Maybe consider an upgraded radiator, since you're in FL.

Forged internals

For strictly street driving, engine mounts aren't completely necessary, but are also cheap relative to the benefit they provide. A catch can is a great idea, as well as a larger capacity clutch. You might be able to get away with the stock clutch for a while as long as you don't do any hard launches, but it will eventually give out. Any clutch that has a torque capacity of at least 250-275 ft-lbs should be fine for the street.

An upgraded radiator isn't strictly necessary unless you're tracking, and technically an oil cooler isn't either. I was using an oil-to-air oil cooler for a while, but my oil never got up to operating temperature while driving on the street, which is obviously not ideal (good read: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114293). If anything, an oil-to-water (i.e. OEM style coolant-based) oil cooler would be sufficient. If you are going to be taking the car to the track, definitely get both an upgraded radiator and an oil-to-air oil cooler.

You should also think about upgrading injectors only if you're going to be using ethanol. The OEM pump does not actually need to be upgraded either way, regardless of what many people will likely say (source: I was pushing almost 400whp on ethanol with the OEM fuel pump for a long time.)

Is this the new JDL kit priced at 2999$?

For street use with pump gas, you don't HAVE to upgrade anything else IMO. Even the stuff you listed isn't necessary. Clutch will likely start slipping sooner or later so a stronger unit might be needed.

i had to upgrade my injectors but my kit was making 13psi.... as long as you stay around 11 it should be fine

A wideband gauge was always cheap insurance with a boosted car when I grew up...I don't think things have changed that much

Does AEM still make the failsafe one?

edit: so they do http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/..._Failsafe.html

Everything on my tag was required to get the car to run right. My factory mounts lasted 5k miles before I felt the motor wanting to jump out when i was in traffic coming from a stop to give it alittle gas.

You can take all the shortcuts you want but id do it right the first time. Tune is a 100% must imo

Thanks for sharing your experience. I am debating getting injectors fuel pump for this kit but I do notice most people on this forum are tracking, I'm just street driving/ DD... and to be fair I have seen MORE successful builds on forums with stock internals and turbo than UNSUCCESSFUL builds with stock internals

Any good recommendations on clutch and catch can?

catch cans
Motor mounts (just cause you might as well)
oil pressure gauge
oil cooler (especially if doing spirited driving)
upgraded Clutch.. I went with the ACT SB8-XTSS (Versus forged clutch fork and pivot as well, since you're already in there)
tires/wheels
edit: Most important of all, a proper tune. Just say no to "tooners"

I had a rather terrible experience with an ACT clutch from day 1 and have had an amazing experience with a South Bend clutch and the stock flywheel. A stage 1 daily clutch (295 ft-lbs, part # FJK1005-HD) or a stage 2 daily (315 ft-lbs, part # FJK1005-HD-O) depending on your torque level. I'm currently using the stage 3 daily clutch rated for 400 ft-lbs and it feels almost as easy as stock and SO much better than the ACT XT I was using before. There's also hardly any flywheel chatter on deceleration, unlike the ACT street-lite flywheel that was deafening loud on deceleration and even chattered at idle with the A/C on. Imagine sitting at a traffic light with the A/C on next to someone with their window down. :thumbdown: I did also have a separate issue with the ACT clutch failing and letting go in the middle of a redline pull at only ~200 ft-lbs of torque (4000 rpm or so maybe?). The only reason I went with another of the same was because it was covered by ACT's warranty.

The Radium catch can kit is the cleanest and best looking kit in my opinion and if you're boosted or going to be, you should probably get the dual kit. After seeing the junk that my catch cans have caught, I highly recommend against getting one that drains what it catches back into your block.

Also as mentioned directly above, a proper custom tune should be step 1.

How long have you been FI with stick internals?

daily driving or occasional pulls, look into the oem forester heat exchange cooler set up works perfectly for my set up, dual catch can set up and quality fuel is a must to avoid knocking. Clutch change can be postponed unless cuz racecarbro, not as if it will let you down 100% all of the sudden 1 day.

did for me.. slipping in 5th and 6th at 3700 rpm on the first test drive.

-Proper Ecutek protune. Don't overlook this, as it's likely the most important part.

-Versus AOS or Radium dual catch cans.

-Oil cooler. If this car will rarely see track time and you don't need to be competitive, grab the OEM FXT DIT cooler. If you foresee some track work in this cars future, grab an air2air oil cooler like the Jackson Racing kit.

-Prepare for a clutch kit! I usually love the ACT HDSS kit, but lots of people have had issues with this clutch kit in this platform, the Exedy and South Bend's seem to do better on this platform for some reason. When you do it, grab the Versus clutch fork and pivot. Do it all while it's all apart!

-Gauges. I'm a big fan of running an oil pressure, boost pressure, AFR, and EGT on modified boosted cars. I think this selection are really helpful to let you know when things are going awry.

Hope that's helpful. Plan to do it all eventually.

AEM Failsafe
Clutch - Use an oem throwout bearing + verus billet fork + verus pivot point....
PCV catch can, crank case doesn't see as much blow by, but if you have cash for both, do it.
Oil Cooler
Good tune- what pops engines and what keeps oem internals intact is determined by how good the tune is.
Oil Pressure gauge, Oil Temp gauge, Boost gauge(only if you dont use AEM failsafe)
Whatever mods Turbo kit calls for (oil pan, drift/crash bar replacement, etc)

Eventually you will want a better radiator with better flowing fans to prevent overheating but what I listed should be adequate.

I run zero supporting mods. I just watch oil and coolant temps. I run a 30wt oil though. Stock clutch still holding ok. Tuned to near perfection.

About 60000 miles without any real engine issues. It's really all in the tune.

Im currently getting the Sprintex 210 intercooled supercharger instal on my 86. (Can't wait )
So far, my only supporting mod is going to be a dual catch can, I don't want to take any chances. I may look into getting an oil temp gage in the future.
A good tune can definitely go a long way, its that fine line between a con rod flying through your engine block or keeping it together. Dont cheap out on a pro tune!

I hope you know this thread is a year and a half old, this guy either decided he's not going FI, or already blew his engine without this comment to help guide him.

Sprintex is a fun awesome kit for some nice DDing.
You already have full headerback? What about tires?

The kit does get hot and like to heat soak after a little hard driving.
I got mishimoto radiator and oem oil cooler. Never seen coolant hit 200yet, oil has gotten low 210s after numerous back to back extended wot pulls but drops quickly once off throttle. And after WMI temps are well managed. Intake temps at or below ambient.
Also You should look at the scangauge. Basically 4 gauges in one. Currently monitoring boost pressure, afr, oil temp, and coolant temp, sometimes i swap transmission temp for boost pressure.

Catch cans?

Air Oil Separator ......to work out if you require a AOS, a quick cheap test is to fit a air compressor AOS, they are cheap, and most importantly they can be checked by eye and easily drained.

$15 on eBay for some R&D is well worth the outlay.

You can get a similar bit of kit from JEGS for $50 if you need brand name.

Dooh..

Hey, I have a catless UEL header, overpipe and cat-back. I kept the factory mid pipe. I have a set of decent tires, firehawks indy 500 (they are good for launches but thats about it, thinking of upgrading when these are worn) You mention some good points, I'll be looking into upgrading slowly but surely. Are you running a catch can or AOS and do you track at all or just street driving, besides the heat managment how is the car holding up?

AOS is defintely alot cheaper!!! Might end up taking this route Im still looking into it

I run radium dual catch cans. Although crankcase side really isn’t needed. Just DD/spirited driving. I wouldn’t track this kit without E85 and/or WMI and a oil cooler. This kit is a rolling furnace otherwise.
This kit doesn’t make the highest peak boost/HP/torque numbers. But it makes some of the best numbers off the line/below 4K so traction can be an issue. Although to be fair I have a 4.56fd swap that doesn’t help traction. Looking at a 3.909 swap when I can find a good deal on one.

Im aware this kit makes more grunt down low hence why I chose the 210. I find it more benifitial since I daily my car and mostly street driving is done under 5k rpms. Honestly Ive never considered changing final gears but Ive heard guys changing them and getting more torque. Whats the difference between 3.9 vs 4.56? Correct me if Im wrong but from my understanding changing final gearing your sacrificing top speed for wheel torque?

Yes, pretty much. The difference between gear ratio (in this case 16.5%) is the difference in top speed per gear, as well as the torque multiplication from gearing. One will do 93mph and the other 80mph in the same gear at same RPM. But the second one will have 16.5% more torque to the wheels in each gear. although you lose that advantage momentarily when you have to shift to the next gear both wasting shifting time as well as losing wheel torque from the gearing and the first one can ride out in same gear longer. You really need to choose a FD specifically for your intended use of the car and know why you want an FD swap for in order to choose which ratio is best.
But generally a shorter FD (higher number) will pull and feel more aggressively. with FI though going higher isn't really needed, and a lot of times people go longer (lower number)