Is my alignment good?
 

I recently got an alignment with camber bolts after mounting my wheels (wedssport tc105n 17x9 +35 with bridgestone potenzas re71r 245 40 17) i managed to get 2.2 camber with just the camber bolts is that good? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d0fd657367.jpg


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I plan on tracking the car soon and autoX but for now I just go on a lot of mountain roads is this alignment up to par for my needs?

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nice

What kind of camber bolts give u that much camber up front? or do u have camber plates too? Am using spc/whiteline camber bolts installed on top strut holes and only got -1.2 degree max :(

Spc camber bolts

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What spring rates and tyres are you using?

Stock springs potenza re71r ,245

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I got -2.2(-2.4 if aligned with me sitting in) in front with SPC 81305/Whiteline KCA416 camber bolts in both holes with stock coilovers. Seems about the same as for OP. Rather "only 1.2" seems a bit too little.

Ok. Remember this: everything's a compromise.
I am thinking you are going to have "too much" grip on stock springs with those tyres with that width. If/when you go to the track I'm thinking you will be riding on the bump stops a fair bit. I am suggesting you want as much camber as you are willing to go.

I use 225 sticky tyres with 6k/6k (I was on 9k/10k) springs and run front camber -3.2 and rear camber -2.7 . Ideally you would be using a pyrometer to set your camber.

Because compromise.

I just noticed you had your tyres mentioned in your first post. Whoops. Forum blindness.

I'd be a bit wary of the handwritten numbers but other than that it looks like a good compromise to start driving hard. Focus more on seat time than tinkering.

Both holes meaning top and bottom strut holes?


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Yes. But guessing that similar can be got with relocating/reusing from bottom strut hole to top one stock 14mm OE crash bolts (not excentric, just using fact that top hole is 16mm), and getting just SPC excentric crash bolts for bottom ones, if budget is tighter.

I didnt know u can use the spc camber bolts on the bottom strut holes cos their instructions said to use them on the top holes only


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There's different sizes for the top and bottom hole. The top bolt is too large for the bottom hole.

benzz280: as strat61caster said. Different bolts of different sizes (and of course with different part numbers). I'm guessing that both Whiteline & SPC may have bolts fitting for both holes, for bottom 14mm (in reality bolt diameter there is closer to 12mm?) and for top 16mm hole (where bolts probably are of 14mm inner size to allow play needed for adjustment).
To simplify choice, ft86sf has exactly the camberbolts that you may need. SPC 81305/Whiteline KCA416 that is. Or get just SPC ones & reuse oem 14mm ones relocating them from bottom to top hole.

Cool man thx for the tips might try it out on my next aligment trip 👍


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if SPC and whiteline are the same bolt, how come it is only recommended to use the SPC in bottom hole ?

They can be same bolt, as both these companies sell both sized bolts.

But users that are advising specific bolt in specific hole most probably are assuming that "company X camberbolt" is of specific size, and "company Y one" is of different size, hence the resulting advise. (Whiteline KCA416 16mm for upper hole, SPC 81305 14mm for bottom hole, as offered by eg. ft86sf and as listed as compatible with our cars within their websites by whiteline & spc)

One technically can put 14mm camberbolt (in reality ~ 12mm inside bolt part to allow movement/adjustment) in 16mm strut mounting hole, but it's not advisable, as bolt can be broken/sheared easier there. Better to use 16mm crashbolt (in reality ~ 14mm) for 16mm hole.

so is the top strut hole safer (more conservative) than a putting a camber bolt in the bottom hole?

i am curious as i am looking for -1 to -1.5 camber for aggressive street, so want to stay as conservative a possible, i read in a thread that whiteline recommended to use the top hole as the bottom one takes a lot more stress?

Imho it shouldn't matter much, top OR bottom. Or difference in mounting strength of any to be too different with other bolt being stock, whichever one of bolts is replaced with camberbolt. If you hit something hard enough to break/shear any camberbolt+other stock bolt combo, imho there are other things to care about with THAT hard of hit to suspension, like bent control arms, topmounts, damaged wheels and such.

Meanwhile -1 to -1.5 seems to me as a bit too conservative, but as wished (by me) -2.# needs both camberbolts anyway (OR anything from slotting/lowering/camberplates), i don't have to choose :)

I doubt I could tell the difference but.....

Captain Snooze: but wasn't that RCE post more related to - if better to deal camber at topmount/camberplate or at lower mount/hub as a whole, not discerning between which exactly from two bolts at hub/at lower end of coilover, about which was asked in post i answered to?

I'm I reAd somewhere that top vs bottom impacts the scrub radius, so I was curious on your view @churchx
I am just an on ramp racer for now so -1 degree seems like best compromise for tire wear vs performance for Oem tires, maybe 1.5, maybe I will start a poll, curious to see what the community is settling at on camber on white line top vs doc bottom bolt

Scrub radius most often is affected by wheel offset for those that want no matter have them "flush". Be it by offset of wheels themselves, or by spacer usage. Camberbolts don't move much hub of wheel, so scrub radius is not one that is affected by noticeable amount from that.
My compromise choice is max i can get with bolts front (-2.4, originally aimed for -2.5), by 0.5 less in rear (-1.9) and with LCAs (less - to dial out some understeering from car as stock). +0.1 toe-in in rear. Was fine for me on track on reasonably gripless tires and on stock suspension and i didn't notice tire wear changes when daily driving enough to bother.
If you almost don't track, and want as daily as possible, i guess -1.5 front / -1 rear might be more for your taste. I'd still keep that difference of 0.5 to lessen understeer. But one can dial in more camber aswell. It's toe, that is biggest tire killer, not camber.