Will -1 camber get rid of this tire poke?
 

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I want the top of the tire to be flush, will -1 camber accomplish this? Thanks.

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No, thats a lot of poke. It will tuck the top in a little but the middle of the tire will not change and the bottom will poke out more.

edit: read updated post, I would say 3-4 maybe to get where you need, but I am no expert on "hella-flush" hahaha

whats your wheel specs and tires? that "looks" like something similar to a 9" width with 245 tires, and on stock suspension...

245 with 18x8.5 +30, anything I can do do the suspension to reduce poke? Doesn't need to be flush I just don't want to be kicking up rocks and ruining my paint/hitting people behind me.

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I don't care if it pokes out at the bottom, it's mostly the top I care about for aesthetics.

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Just by eyeballing it I would guess -3 is were you should start

You will likely need more negative camber. Add camber, possibly lower it (if the height bothers you, aesthetically), add mud flaps.

Isn't -3 a lot? I don't want to wear on my tires excessively. I also don't need hella flush, almost flush will do.

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lowering+camber is gonna be the best you can do

-3 is on the higher side, but its doable.

Toe has more of an effect on tire wear. Just hit up the track/canyon to keep things even.

Why does lowering a car tuck the wheels in?

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I would say that approx -2 camber will help pull in the top as much as possible and still won't promote excessive shoulder wear. Once you pass 2 ish and don't flog the car at a track, you will start to notice the uneven wear on a McPherson type front suspension setup. I got 17x9 +35 and got neg 1.7 up front with a single set of camber bolts (with lowering springs) and it made it much better. I'm not as familiar with your wheel width and offset however...

You would need to have different wheels / tires to run less camber and not poke.

You're changing the suspension geometry and the control arm angle relative to vehicle as it sits lower. The lower you go, the more uncorrected neg camber you'll get

the way the suspension works on this car, you will increase negative camber as you lower the car. Of course, it only adjusts it so much, but it'll help.

Start with -2 and lowering it and see where that brings you. -2 to -2.5 is a good amount and is great performance wise.

What about rub though? My setup is 245/35R18x8.5 +30

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I have 245/35 18x8.5 +33 lowered on springs with camber bolts ~ -1 degree camber and it pokes just slightly. I don't rub at all on stock struts even at full lock. I'm considering camber plates so I can get to -2

for the fronts, you're going to need either camber bolts or adjustable top hats to get more negative camber. on these cars, the fronts wont camber in much just by lowering... only the rears do that noticeably on their own.

with camber bolts only on stock suspension or lowering springs, you'll only get small negative camber like up to -1.5deg if that. might be good enough for what you want, but i'd aim for at least -2deg with that set up in the fronts.

-2.0 or -2.5 up front is what you need to set it even up top, if you lower the car an inch all around the 1" drop in the rear should set the rear camber to about -2.25,-2.5 range so as long as you set the toe F+R you should be fine on tire wear, performance and looks.

That offset is what's killing ya. But you bought them now you have to live with it.

My DD setup(also my autoX) is -3.4 camber with a little toe out and tire wear is perfect. Just lower it camber in the front and it will help

Negative camber doesn't wear tires much. If you drive it 30k miles a year maybe but most people never see enough miles to matter, you can just rotate your tires to wear the other side anyways. If you plan on any racing you'll need that camber for traction. I'm going up to -3.5 front this year. Lowering won't help much. Adjustable top hats will be what you need maybe rear LCAs, not sure on how far camber bolts can get you but I know I wouldn't want to get them and find out they aren't enough

I have 245/40/18 on 18x8.5+40, lowered roughly 1.5" with -2 camber on the front and it's perfectly flush. As people have said, it'll be tricky, but doable. I know the meaty tire guys running 265's on 18x9.5+40's can pull it off. That would have similar hub face to wheel outside distance of an 8.5+28.

Running -2.5 camber up front with 18x9.5 +35offset wheels and 245x35x18 tires. No poke.

Thanks for all the help guys! I think I'm going to go -2 on the front. One question I still have is, did you guys do it yourself, or did you bring it in to a mechanic?

I just had the guys at Tires Plus mount my wheels and when I asked about a custom alignment they said they could add negative camber if I wanted, but is this something better suited for a performance shop?

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Anyone with an alignment rack can do it. Once you get aftermarket parts they can get kinda iff because they may not understand how the part is adjusted but you can just explain to the tech(these parts aren't complicated by any means). It's the alignment rack that's the important part, cause they will assist it and look at the number on the screen and adjust it again. I'd try to find a place that will cut you a deal if -2 isn't enough and needs readjusted.

Now there are DIY tools but if you don't plan on changing it often I'd just go to a shop. Also I suppose you could use a protractor app on your phone? I've never done this, I dunno how accurate it is, but it seems like it should work if you put a flat plate on the face off your wheel to measure on. Then you could get it really close to what you want for free and just have a shop even it up

Your best bet is to get a trusted performance shop that does performance alignments.


ANYONE can do it with the proper rack and knowledge....but the average guys at NTB / Sears / ETC aren't trained in performance stuff. If you need additional parts to help with the alignment they wouldn't be able to help you acquire / suggest car specific parts FOR THE MOST PART. Also most aren't trained in performance alignment parts. I have ran across some good alignment people here and there at the chain places. All depends.

But how is a performance alignment different from normal? It's just farther/steeper/more right? I'm pretty sure the guy at Sears can figure out he needs to move the tophat further to get more camber. He may not be know that you need to move some bolts top different holes to get the bigger numbers(seen this before) but if you explain it to them they should be fine. As far as suggesting parts to get, I doubt even a performance shop will be aware if every option we have available as many companies develop exclusively for twins or Subarus. That's what the internet is for anyways right? To figure out what parts you need and watch porn

My only reasoning.... is that they probably deal with the parts regularly, while the guy at sears may only see a few a month. I'm sure a performance shop would understand an eccentric bushing and how to use it (just an example) more than the average NTB alignment guy. I'd rather have a guy know what to do with a part than have to explain how to use it. Also a performance shop that does alignments too, I would hope could give some general parts suggestions if they need more adjustment..... Maybe not specific names or companies but like "hey you need something to adjust your rear camber, I have seen people use control arms before maybe look in to that." Where as the NTB guy would most likely say, "Can't get the numbers you're looking for. Sorry."


I said it all depends! Sometimes you get an enthusiast at those places that understands you don't want your wheels scratched when they put tires on, lol.

Point taken. I don't mind explaining how my coils need adjusted so long as it's right. I've had a dealership(only place local that could get mine on the rack) not adjust rear camber cause they couldn't figure it how to use the arms with the frame in the way and just maxed the front without relocating bolts and were like "well, we don't know what we are doing so that'll be 70$" they made it worse than when it went in. Yet I had a local shop with a single employee try everything to get my car set up on the rack but ended up being unable to do it cause if my tire tuck and the way his sensors mounted. But he tried and understood how to make adjustments with a quick explanation.

I dunno, just doesn't seem useful to sell out a performance shop when all information is already online and OPs setup is stock anyways. I'd think one you can work with would be better than a big place that won't listen to you

PS: shop many huge posts today... literally more written in the last 3 hours than in the last 10 years

Btw... A trick some performance shops will do is swap the smaller strut bolt and the camber bolt and use it as a crash bolt to sneak in some extra neg camber without having to buy more parts. That seems more viable than slotting the struts, etc. as well. If you're lowered 3/4" or more, it's possible to get -2 without camber plates