Car will not starts at all
 

So for whatever reason my 13 frs won't start. I have two key fobs and both have new batteries and I'm able to turn the car into aux mode but won't turn over at all. The light is on in the dash showing the alarm is on even though the alarm is off (pressing the unlock on the fob) checked every fuse and they're all good to go. Lights, dome lights and all dash lights turn on just fine and battery is new too. I was on a deployment and didn't drive the car everyday so my dad would drive it once a week and car ran just fine but now it won't even do a damn thing. It's FI and Ive had no problems with the car whatsoever. Very frustrating and want to get to the bottom of this. Oh and the fob does unlock and lock the car.

Do you know what the voltage is on the car's battery is? When's the last time your father started it?

He started it last week and took the battery to autozone and it was fine

clutch switch or park/neural switch may be faulty

Is that a costly fix? I know the clutch switch is under the dash, was looking at it earlier but don't know where the park neutral switch is at

FI as in fuel injection or forced induction?

Do you hear a metallic click from the starter when turning the key? The stock pos Panasonic is krap. With just a .03 mine wouldn't start. Everything else worked 100% fine.

I don't think your car has both.

Is it a MT or AT .. ??


humfrz

Car won't even click over when I turn the key but the starter and alternator are new so o I know that isn't the issue is and it forced induction. Has a FBM stage 1

Damn I went dumb on that one haha I have a headache since I've been trying to figure out what's going on but it's MT

Get meter and check voltage. Make sure power is good, then fuses.

Already checked battery and it's good to go and all fuses are good as well.

There ya go, ol @Packofcrows is on the case ..... :thumbsup:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

Also, make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.


humfrz

OK, hmmmmm ........what voltage is the battery putting out .. ??


humfrz

Did all do this already and everything is good. It's just a weird situation I'm in because everything checks out good yet the car just doesn't want to turn on.

If the battery is putting out 12.45 volts or more, and the starter won't go ...... you might check the battery ground cable, where it grounds to the engine.

Also, since you mentioned the starter was new, maybe check the connection from the battery at the starter.


humfrz

One last thing id try bc im not FI is unplugging battery for 5min. If it were one of my old cars id say gas pump related.

BTW starters and alternators can go bad bc of install even installed perfectly. I swapped 2 alternators before my pickup accepted the 3rd.

OK, @Tomahawk ...... how is your headache ....??

You haven't got back to us on the voltage of your car's battery.

The exact voltage is quite important, as you can see from the attached chart.

A battery with ONLY 12.0 volts WON'T engage a starter.

Have a beer, take a deep breath and ....... come back.


humfrz

While we are waiting for Tomahawk, your story brings to mind a "back in the day" story.

It was a hot, humid day, back in Missouri, when my old Ford F-250 PU decided to sputter to a stop. I pulled off the air cleaner and the fuel line and no gas. I placed a dry rag over the detached fuel line and cranked the engine over several times. Still, no gas.

Fortunately, a Ford dealership was only about 1/2 mile down the road, so, I carried the old fuel pump down and traded it for a genuine, certified, re-built one. Well, it looked pretty.

However, IT DIDN’T work either ……… I was ..... :mad0260:

So, being dripping wet from sweat and reeking of gasoline, I stormed into the parts department to get one that worked. Yes, is was the old style, fuel pump that was mechanically driven off the cam shaft …… so, unless I “lost” a cam lobe, the fuel pump was BAD!

The dude had his mechanic “bench check” it and sure enough the diaphragm was split. So, he gave me a NEW one. I installed it and my truck ran fine.

OK, where were we ……. ??


humfrz

Ok if its manual it will have a switch on clutch actually two switches. one switches when clutch fully released, the other when clutch pedal fully depressed. The fully depressed one needs to trigger ie your foot fully on clutch else car wont start.

not sure if its normally closed or open but test it with meter to see if it changes state when you press clutch or operate it with your finger.

if you had techstream software and adapter you can check it with that

Oh and wiggle the steering wheel in case the lock pin is loaded by the steering wheel the steering lock needs to release before car will start.

I'll do the test on the clutch when I get back. I had to come back to base for in processing. Gonna get a new battery since my dad just told me he didn't always turn on the car. I was under the impression that he did but if anything I'm just gonna take it to a shop (one of the shops on the list for our cars on this forum) and see if they can get it running. Just something I personally don't want to deal with especially since when I left the car was in perfect running condition. Sorry guys I haven't had much sleep so I knocked out earlier. I was used to being 11 hours ahead of pacific time and it's wearing me down. Hopefully soon I'll get this figured out and I'll keep you updated. Thank you everyone for the advice you guys really helped when I needed it

I think that was me..

My money is that the battery is just down from not running enough for that prolonged period of time. These cars seem to suck the life right out of batteries if not run for long periods.

@humfrz


Reading your story, I was almost sure it would end with you yelling at the dealership guy for giving you a bad pump, and then figuring out that you had no gas in the tank, or something like that. ;)

Yeah since I lost my job two months ago my car is only being driven a couple of times a week and each time it's super sluggish turning over. After driving for ten miles or so it starts right back up like it's supposed to but it drains back down again within two or three days.

Hahaha nah man but poor guy if I did

Thanks for serving our country .... :clap:


humfrz

Well, I hope you get re-employed soon.

Time for a hook up to a battery charger to bring it all the way back up to strength. If that don't work ...... new battery time ...... ;)


humfrz

@humfrz storytimehttp://static2.fjcdn.com/thumbnails/...bfd5f56e31.gif


Remember payphones (Pacific Bell?) and landlines?

I'm only 26 but damn, I lived a harsh life in ghettos as a kid.



OP: Good luck getting to the fuel pump quick.... maybe 3-8hrs or all day on the first time you access it type of job. A DIY would be nice though.

Thinking....if it cranks... oe doesn't. ..may be ECU? Fried.

My pleasure. I love what I do 🇺🇸

When you turn the car to aux without trying to start it, do you get the green flashing key on the dash?

Nope I only get the red one

Any Update? Would you be willing to attempt a bump/push start?

I'm gonna do a little reviewing here:

We're 60-70 percent sure the battery is alright
So that leaves the starter or a lose engine connection or fuel injection driver box possibly?

Won't be back at the house until Thursday so I'll update once I get home or once the problem gets fixed. If I can't do it myself I hope it doesn't cost much to fix

Well, I'm one of the 30% that is not convinced he doesn't have a weak battery.

I thought the OP said that he had replaced the starter ...... of course, it still could be bad.

I don't know about these ECU driven engines, but wouldn't it still turn over even if the fuel injection system was screwed up ...... ??


humfrz

Yes in some cases, however I know of some cases with people who installed the Crawford BPBs without the "riser" because the provided instructions were crap. They found it doesn't ground properly with one of the bolts loose and the car would not turn over, other people would have the engine turn over then die immediately.

Also with tuning stuff for the main ECU, I know that if you accidentally skip a step in the OFT flash process and turn the key to start the car nothing will happen @steve99 might know what happens there. It usually happens when you press OK one of the last few steps and the car refuses to start till the ignition is turned fully off and back on again. But that's a different ball game.

Oh, my ....... these machines have left me behind ...... :sigh:

Thanks for the insight ..... :thumbsup:


humfrz

Thats weird,

The RED key symbol or lock symbol indicates security still active and the key fob not being read by car, no chance car is going to start with the red key

needs to go green

you have the correct key fob ? , you dont own another toyots/subaru and picked up the wrong ones

Hold the key fob next to start button for 30 sec then press start while key fob near start button

does the fob lock/unlock the doors

I still think it's something simple like the battery. the fact that the OP's dad didn't actually drive the car as often as the OP thought is really the key factor that leads me to think this. the battery just might not be completely flat so the lights and stuff still come on, just won't crank.

EDIT: or might be a bad/dead fob key like @steve99 pointed out

after flash completed you need to switch off ignition to get ecu out of program mode else car wont start, but he has not been "flashing" :-)