Originally Posted by jamesm (Post 1358317)

nothing at all. your ecu doesn't know if you're making 225whp or 550, makes no difference whatsoever. the same principles apply and work exactly the same. if you want to use electronic boost control you can do that without altering logic at all. personally i choose to stick to manual boost control, because i like my sanity.

as far as tuning it, i just pulled some timing whilst smoothing out the timing map, made the open loop afr targets reasonable for boost, and went for a drive. make some runs and log all the important bits, mainly knock control. make sure afrs are stable where you want them, then begin adding about a half a degree at a time to the cells with no knock, rinse and repeat.

my protune made 260whp and pulled -5deg in most FLKC cells, knocked like hell pretty much everywhere, with crazy afr's all over the place an 20+% fuel trims. my new tune, using basically this exact method (more precisely, that described by bad noodle's guide pretty much exactly), made 289whp at the same boost and has 0KC, 0 LTFT across the board. it took 54 revisions to get there, so it's not an overnight process. it takes time, and make small adjustments, no big changes at once.

most importantly, when something is wrong, i can fix it myself. no email back-and-forth, waiting a week for a response bs. teach a man to fish...

but us commoners can't figure out the fa20... so just pay someone to maybe possibly get it right when they find the time ;).

Originally Posted by ztan (Post 1358725)

Thanks for the info. Teach me to fish.

Questions:
1. Did you need to rescale load range and if so, how much by; how much load does your engine see?
2. For your baseline timing map when starting, did you pull timing from base or advance map, and approx how much did you pull for a start?
3. What kind of AFRs are we looking for under boost at low level
4. What do you use for manual boost control; did you need to play with the MAP compensation maps?

Originally Posted by cruizin01 (Post 1363257)

Good points on both sides. I personally want to the ability to have at least a bit of adjustability on my end. That's why I went with oft. It wasn't strictly price. I dont want to pay a premium price and be forced to depends on updates from an out of state tuner. I get it though. Just not for everyone.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by jamesm (Post 1363416)

why was my post removed from here? did i offend someone? if anything, that was one of the less asshole-ish posts i've made ;).

Originally Posted by CajunFRS (Post 1364314)

Think Vishnu will get to tune a JRSC? :D

Originally Posted by s2d4 (Post 1365537)

Pretty sure all you need is to bring it to shiv then he can get one out for sure.

Originally Posted by Rombinhood@OpenFlash (Post 1364205)

I believe Vishnu already offers an unlocked OFT tune for the Phanton SC. You can see their dyno results attached (stock vs. ESC+midpipe on 91oct vs ESC+midpipe on E85).

I'm happy to say that more FI kit support is underway as we speak... er type.

Originally Posted by regal (Post 1292817)

But for someone who just wants a moderate kit like base innovate, avo, or greddy, ~ 225whp, the license/cable/tune end up adding 25% to the cost.

If these cars are so complicated to tune that a 225 whp kit requires bypassing stock logic and EcuTeck then it cuts off a lot of potential customers.

Maybe I'm wrong but those who buy an Innovate kit with their carb 210hp base-map are paying for more than they need with the Ecutek.

I totally get the need for a $900 tune+ tuning equipment on those pushing 270+hp, but at some point someone is going to sell a ~225 hp kit with a free base map. Probably for $3500 done deal. Its a business model and market segment that this platform needs. Like Flying Miata's $3k kit?