Cool. I just realized I misread your post. I thought you were asking how the cables hooked to the battery bracket. My brain just added an extra word in there.

But yeah, you'll be super happy with this battery. I was kind of apprehensive when I bought it, but it's been extremely reliable for my purposes. I'll probably get a 5 pounder for my DD, next time it needs a new battery.

It sounds like it's been very reliable for you. Do you use any kind of battery tender?

Nope. I bought one when I got the battery, and it's still new in the box over a year later.

This thread was the inspiration to have a custom try made for my car with help from my friend's shop, Groundscore Fabworks here in portland.

Turned out superb!

Butt dyno picked up the difference immediately.

Wow... ok... I just stared at your photos and kept going back and fourth between yours and mine for at least two minutes. I was sooo confused about how this thing was mounted.

Then I finally realized it's an optical illusion. I thought this top tab here was bolted down directly to the chassis. Now I see there's another vertical part of the bracket that connects it to the chassis.

Oh, and it looks great, by the way!

Yeah..here's a couple more , one showing the back piece.

bolts up to the OEM bracket.

Those are much better. It actually looks like higher quality craftsmanship in those. Did you weigh it? And which battery is that? That looks like the little 3 pounder that I have.

Yeah, my buddy who made it is really good and he just eye balled this one for me as I didn't care if it looked all fancy. But he proceeded to sand it a bunch and give it bit of a brushed look haha.

Have plans of a rear seat delete and eventually a 4 point roll cage to be put in by him.

No, I didn't weigh it, but it was pretty darn light. The 3 screws in the back, the top one and the bottom two are fastened into tapped holes in the pieces.

This is the 4.5lb one. The one used by the TRD folks. I DD my car and wanted the extra juice.

@Anthony I have the 3 lb battery like the one you have. Will it handle an ECU file update using EcuTek? or will die during the flash?


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I don't know how long EcuTek takes. I have OpenFlash, but I would think the time would be close, if not identical. It works for that. I think the real testament is when I get alignments, they put the brace on my brakes, so my brake lights will be on for 30+ minutes and it'll still crank the car.

I have a Shorai on my Ducati M796. Saved like 7-10 pounds. Thing was super light compared to the stock battery. 10 pounds counts big on a bike. I don't know that I would care for this on my car unless I wanted to relocate the battery or needed the car gutted for the track and wanted to save every pound I could.

I am considering this battery too. If the battery discharge to the point it cannot start the car, can I just jump start my car with cables from another car? Or do I need any device attached, or I cannot do it at all? I am willing to take the risk of having it, but only if there is a way how to start the car without any huge device and electric socket (read on the road)

Sorry for the thread necro, but it looks like these LFX36L3-BS12 batteries are still highly praised on Amazon. I'm thinking about taking the plunge. Can someone please confirm my supporting parts list?

*Brass terminals (from the OP of this thread)
*Tie down adapter or new tie down (could DIY, but if there's a proven COTS solution I'd appreciate a pointer to it)
*Shorai tender (not sure I need this for Bay Area Cali, drive every day and expected temps are between 30-100 F, plus I have a backup car).
*Voltage monitor? (again, if I drive everyday, maybe I don't really need it?)

Thanks in advance!

FYI


These battery terminals mentioned in the OP did not work for me with the Shorai LFX36L3-BS12. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZR4UC/

They were too short and were also too narrow. I will post when I find a solution.

My battery came with some adapter brackets I used to spread and raise the terminals. I'll post a picture of how janky it looks tomorrow. Still looking for a better solution.

Thanks man

You can check my build thread in post #64 where I installed the Shorai LFX36L3-BS12 + the PTuning Battery Tray. It looks a little janky, but basically there was a terminal offset bracket that came with the battery. You can install it in two different ways, I did it so that my negative terminal would be mounted horizontally instead of vertically since this made it easier to keep the harnesses out of the way. The positive terminal fit normally without issues.

Thanks, how did you get the positive pole connector to go deep enough to grab? They have to bottom out on the battery pole to grab.

depending on how this necroed thread turns out i might do this since i left my trunk open for a week, killed my battery, and its never been the same since

If I remember to do it tomorrow evening at the shop, I'll dismantle my battery setup and take pictures showing how it goes together. It was pretty straightforward.

I purchased this battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FIUMOG/

And these terminals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZR4UC/

I don't remember which came with the L adapter which I used on the negative side, but everything was very straightforward.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...128600&page=14

Give you ideas to making a mount, you can use factory tie down no problem.

you do not need the shorai tender go buy the harbor freight tender for like 6$ with a coupon it charges at a low trickle does the same thing for fraction of the price.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automa...ger-69955.html

I have had the battery for about a year now, used it all winter. if i know i am going more then 3 days with out driving ill unplug the battery, if i go a few days without driving and then find out i am going a few more like when it snowed all of a sudden, then i unplug put it on the trickle charger for a bit then hook back up once i am ready to use it.

I have also started my car 5 times in a row without driving or hardly idling with out any hesitation. The main issue is when your car has a slight draw of power even when turned off it will slowly drain it like an alarm system or maybe some remote start systems, the shorai doesn't hold a lot of reserve power. i try not to do short trips, but really if you did 3 - 5 minute trips in 1 or 2 days and then 1 - 15+ minute trip to recharge it should be fine, or if i know im not driving for a few days ill make sure to drive 15+ minutes before parking my car. A few minor things to consider but nothing that is really too much of a nuisance. The longer you have it and the more you "test its limits" the more you start to trust it and not worry so much.

Imgur album:
Toyota 86 5lb Shorai battery https://imgur.com/a/gQvw9Fh

You can see the z bracket adapters in the battery, then I mounted the Oddesey terminals on top.

Thanks, I appreciate the pic. I'd like to be able to go direct with battery poles. I'm looking for taller wider ones ATM.I haven't had much time yet but will.

Post your setup when it's done!

Will do! I have to make so time to finish it up. I want to get driving it again!

my battery started to get weird again today so i pulled the trigger. Ill post updates when i get it installed

Ran the shorai for the last 2 summers, take it out in the winter and replace with an AGM. So basically it has been used for about a year and it is already starting to fail - cranking in 60 degree weather is much slower than it used to be. Just FYI.

My experience is different, 5 years of street and track use, removing it when Canadian freeze arrives, and it still cranks the same.
Possibly because I keep it on the Shorai charger over winter. :cheers:

i just tried to install with those terminals and its 2 negative terminals... time for a refund

What do you mean 2 negative terminals? I can probably go take some photos right now of how it all goes together... but a bit of a description of your issue would be helpful. I order those exact items I linked off Amazon + the PTuning battery tray and got everything working fine.

positive terminals are a little bigger than the negative terminal. these are the same size. i thought "fuck it, ill try it anyway" but with the positive terminal clamp screwed all the way down it didnt even remotely clamp. looks like vendor is pulling a bait and switch. i got out my calipers and they are the exact same size unlike the oem battery

Yeah, that's fucky. My order had differently sized terminals. Here's photos of my setup to help guide you on your journey:


https://i.imgur.com/8HjtLJB.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/XqQQl1E.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CTLviBa.jpg
This is how i did mine. it seemed pretty snug but i probably should get an actual holder. i guess ill look around for one while im looking for terminals

Dude... unless the bottom is glued to that cardboard that thing is going to slide around on hard braking. +1 for the redneck engineering though.

the cardboard is on top the stock tray. i just put it there for more grip. its like a battery gasket. i think im going to swap it with 3m tape but its not going anywhere unless i crash. i tried to pry it out and couldnt. the stock tie down isnt totally flat so the wood gets slightly dented by it but it shouldnt matter since it spreads out the load

Invest in the PTuning billet tray and tie, it's really nice and fits perfectly.

go to home depot, get some metal corner brackets, some nuts/bolts, (optional) high temp spray paint. and and make a cheap lightweight bracket for around 20$

Here is the link to make my cheap home depot cradle. With the cradle handling forces on the sides , the stock bar has no problem holding it down plus its light


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120937

i thought this was pretty janky and bought the ft86sf small battery kit holder