I think the stock afr is a bit rich...so a few tenths leaner should be fine. * input from tuners appreciated

Forgive my ignorance, but would it be possible that the afr's might correct a little bit with some more pulls? Don't these fuel computers learn over time to correct to a certain extent for lack of fuel delivery, or to make better afr numbers. What would happen if you did the old disconnect the battery, hold the brake and make the car relearn? You know start it back up with the new setup. Let it idle for at least 30 minutes and then do some pulls.

Granted you would be looking at a possible change in ambient temps, and enviornment after too long, and therefore not being being able to replicate runs over and over. Not really being well versed in how these cars handle changes in setups this may not be how things work any more. Just curious if it might help?

I'm just going back to my old 2.2L accord days. So again please forgive my ignorance.

What you're describing here is exactly what we did, but with less of an idle time. The ECU did seem to correct a bit on the first run each time, but after that, things seemed pretty consistent. We have long and short term fuel trims for each pull as well that were still working through. We should definitely be able to paint as clear a picture as possible with all of the data that we collected. I'm working on charting the pulls we did with a couple aftermarket intakes for today, so we're getting close!

Matt Beenen
Engineering

So being that I did not unhook and drain the power from the ecu after I put my drop in K&N in. Would it even make a difference at this point, lets say a thousand miles later to actually do this? I gather the car has made the appropriate changes already, and learned the new filters characteristics?

No, I would say you're fine. The ecu in these cars learns EXTREMELY fast. Resetting the ECU between intake configurations is probably not even necessary. We did it because that is the preferred testing manner for consistency. In fact, the most important reason for us resetting the ECU between runs was to reset the Ignition Advance Multiplier if there were knock events on the previous dyno pulls.

We're definitely not trying to scare anyone away from their drop in filters, that is absolutely not what we're implying. I wouldn't be worried at all.

Chase
Engineering

Thanks guys. I appreciate the fact that you are doing the research.

How much does a stock snorkel cost? The mod seems similar to the HKS intake duct, but I'm sure a stock snorkel is a little bit cheaper.

I'm not sure what the problem is? It looks like the average gains from the drop-in was roughly 5 whp and 2 wtq. $40 for 5 whp equals $8 per whp. That's an insane bang for the buck, albeit it's only a small gain.

EDIT: Also, I didn't mean to Thanks your post, I misclicked when I tried to Quote it. Oops. :bonk:

Just received the K&N drop in and installed it.

I'll use this til you guys release the intake system. :D

Thanks for all the information, Grimmspeed.

So would you venture to say the drop-in filter may be detrimental in the long term with the AFR readings, or is the change in AFR still acceptable for a NA application?

The AFRs are not great, but I really wouldn't be worried about it. I especially think that in the long term, there won't be a problem. If K&N DIFs blew up cars, with the extremely large amount of them sold, you definitely would have heard about it by now.

Chase
Engineering

straight to post
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=504

This mod may help slightly up top but will definitely kill performance off the line. Especially in AT where wot is needed to get moving quick. Lift the break and go wot, you will be left dead in the water until you slowly climb to 2k rpms when the car will finally get moving. In NA configurations it needs to scavenge a bit for air to get combustion going. Velocity vs volume. If you have already done this mod and have experienced this problem just cover the modded snorkel inlet until you get the same surface area as before. I found that my Frs actually responds better with slightly less surface area than the original stock inlet. I am running E85 on the oft stage 2 tune.

Brings me to my questions -- If you left the snorkle in tact, but heated the tip and stuffed in the pop bottle to expand it, will it have a benefit? What if you angle cut the tip, but left the two resonators in place? What about one resonator?


has anyone had successful results running a different shape?