LWFW will make the car a little more prone to stalling if your clutch technique isn't perfect. This can make stop and go driving even more tedious than it already is. That said, it won't cause clutch shudder (contaminated friction surfaces or warping causes that). And while it won't make an ounce more power, it does make the motor more responsive, so it feels more lively. It can also make fast upshifts a bit easier on synchros. And of course, there's the plain static weight reduction off the heavy end of the car. If you're already in there doing clutch work and want to make the car feel 'sportier', it's kind of a no brainer.

Kind of like a turbo.

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/exed...2013-ft86.html

* Racing flywheels are compatible with Stage 1 Organic, Stage 2 Sports and Stage 2 Racing clutches.

Yea those are a bitch to cold start and that’s probably 75-100# flywheel. My model A had at least 80# I used that for antique tractor pulls. The b had probably 30-40# omg what a diff it made nothing runs like a JD:w00t:

ahhhh ....... haaaaaa ........ another old farm boy ..??

Yep, starting a model A JD on a cold morning had it's challenges. Set the gas, open the petcocks, set the choke, spin the flywheel ........ and hope the hell that sucker didn't flood before it started ...... not a job for the weak wristed.

Oh, yes, nothing runs like a deere ..... :thumbsup:

What year was your model A .. ??


humfrz

It is worth it in my opinion, doesn't really make it that much harder to drive.

We’re closer than you think my dad was from upper Sandusky Ohio. So I was always down there. The A is 1937 and the B is a 1939. Yea always stand a bit back from the petcock so you don’t get oil spray on your pants when starting. The B we rebuilt from the literally ground up as it was my grate grand parents and was sitting rusting in there yard. It was a gift my grandfather,me my dad and brother spent the summer break restoring for my grandma. The A my grandpa got as a retirement gift everyone at JD chipped in and :cheers:got him when he retired as a mechanic after almost 30+years. I would pull the A it had more pow pow lol. If I rember it had duel fuel so kerosene and gas easier to start on gas but I think it ran longer on the kerosine although I could have that backwards. Man that takes me back. :cheers:

Fer sure, fer sure. My father, grandfather and great grandfather were farmers in southern Ohio.

The oldest tractor I remember was a 1940 something Oliver 70, with all steel wheels. Yep, that was a bitch to hand crank to start. I would set up a 5 gallon can beside the crank, set the crank, jump off the can onto the crank, remembering not to wrap my thumb around the crank handle and hope the hell I got my arm out of the way in case it kicked back ...... :eyebulge:

Welcome, folks to the .......... Old Tractor Channel ........ :happyanim:


humfrz

You'll like it if you use auto-blip/heel-toe for downshifting. Rev matches much faster.

For the record, any OE replacement flywheel (same weight or lighter) can work with any OE replacement clutch.

In other words: If the flywheel or clutch kit does not require you to get a matching pressure plate or flywheel to use with, you can use it.

Whoot whoot:threadjacked: lol love the tractor channel hehe

I think it really comes down to preference some like it some have trouble with it. Same with clutch springs and women some like it hard some like it soft. Since it dose not supply more power it really dose come down to preference. Find a friend that has one and test it see if you like it as long as it’s the clutch/flywheeland not there woman you should be good. There is no real need for it for daily driving.