All what he said that he was approaching The roundabout , downshifted from 4 to 3, then he tried to accelerate but the car doesn't want to go. That's all what he said.

Probably that's when the clutch got stuck. he kept hammering the throttle trying to avoid the traffic, and baked the clutch. Luckily no one hit him.

:bellyroll:

Maybe your friend... ...well, he reminds me of this video. :clap:

https://youtu.be/bM3So0U1BMQ?t=35s

LOL, the problem with most stupid people is they don't know they are stupid.

He downshifted from 4 to 3 and then tried to accelerate through a roundabout? How fast was he going? You're lucky the clutch burned instead of grabbing, or there would be a lot more of the car that needed fixing. I would be very hesitant to call anyone who treated my property like that a friend.

I take it he's paying?

Your friend better be paying, we all know what he did to your car. Why were you not in the car with him when he was "test" driving it?

first thing first, check the clutch linkage from under the dashboard. there is a connecting rod that link the clutch peddle to the master cylinder.

then check if there is any leakage in the MC line to the slave cylinder. have one guy step on the peddle, and another looking into your engine bay to make sure the SC piston is moving.

now, goes checking the real problem.

you said you can select any gear, rev the engine, but no movement.

the likelihood of your transmission spline got sheer off is highly unlikely. the car in stock condition (assume you keep your car stock) just doesnt produce that much power to do such damage. matter of fact, people have boosted up to 400whp while lunching the car still dont have that problem.

a bent fork is also unlikely, if you bent the fork, you will experience harsh pushing and pulling throughout shifting the gears. in addition, once you are in gear, you will be able to move the car.

what is likely is that somehow your shift linkage to the transmission is disconnected.

at the base of your shifter, there is a hole that accept the transmission shifting link. that shifting link is fasten onto your shifter by a cotter pin, you will have to remove the rubber boot to uncover this. if that cotter pin falls out, the shifting linking could potentially work its way out though vibration.

you can access this in two ways.

1. remove your shifter base from inside the car.
2. unbolt the driveshaft carriage from under the car and that will give you clear access to the bottom of the shifter.

you can look up TRD quickshifter DIY for option 2. or clutch replacement DIY for option 1.

hope this help.

Btw if something in the clutch assembly is broken, you will defiantly hear some weird noise (FOD) from the bell house.

The likelihood of you needing to replace the clutch is low. The burning smell are probably just clutch slipping when the transmission is bouncing from engagement to neutral.

Check the pin like what I've suggested in my post above and report back. Take some pictures while you are at it.

also I am suspecting your car are in a constant state of neutral, where shifting input is not being register by the transmission.

you can verify this state by doing the following.

1. park on a flat surface.
2. pushing your shifter in gear (1 gear is prefer) while the engine is off.
3. remove the handbrake.
4. get out of the car and see if you can push it forward.

if the car moves forward like the car is in neutral, then your shift linkage is definitely disconnected.

if your shift linkage is intact, then your pressure plate is the one that need to be replace. the pressure plate is design to clamp/ sandwich the clutch disk in between the flywheel. the clamped clutch disk is what transfer the engine movement to the transmission. so without the clamping pressure of the diaphragm springs, the flywheel will be free spinning while power is not being transfer. the pressure plate diaphragm spring is what providing the primary back pressure to your clutch peddle. this would be the most plausible case when you can rev the engine w/o movement, lighter clutch peddle movement, be able to shift into any gear and hear normal gear engagement.

this could be a warranty item. the clutch plate is the wear and tear item due to its friction material. the diaphragm springs on the pressure plate is design to last the life of the car, and its fasten onto the pressure plate by rivets (if i remember correctly). i think its likely that those rivets popped off somehow.

Thanks, will do that tomorrow and report back.

Car is stock from bumper to bumper.

if the shifter linkage came off, wouldn't the shifter move with practically no force? If so, I would think this would be a dead giveaway. I haven't messed with mine, but if anything like an old eclipse/talon: It has two cables, one for forward/backward, and one for right/left. If right/left came off you could still choose between 3rd and 4th gear. If front/back came off you would have tension when moving shifter left and right, but no pressure moving it forward/backward. So it "should" just flop with no force leaving you unable to select any gears.

this transmission have the push-rod system. the transmission linkage to the shifter is a L shape solid rod.

my experience came from the hands on work I did when I had to installed the OE clutch back myself as well as installing the TRD quickshifter.

there were no cables for this transmission.

clutch pedal inspection
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kovKJNZpMKw"]GT 86 clutch pedal inspection - YouTube[/ame]

Shifter inspection
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMX80pw5WxE"]GT86 Shifter inspection - YouTube[/ame]

clutch master cylinder inspection
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qV2uc9oxaVw"]GT86 clutch master cylinder inspection - YouTube[/ame]

Gear case inspection
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFUQbRkPTuE"]GT86 Gear case inspection - YouTube[/ame]