I haven't figured that one out yet. I'm going to try and get it done tomorrow. I'd like to do it like you said but I'm not sure there will be enough room.
I'm going to be running the Rockford R500X1D (500W RMS) with the Rockford P3D4-10 (500W RMS) at 2 ohms. Should be fine as far as heat.

I'm interested, but will need to see some specs/diagram to ensure it is what I am looking for!

Anybody tried these sub enclosures before?
 

I finished the installation. I decided to put the amp in the right corner, under the trunk cover. I removed the styrofoam that was there, velcroed the amp to the body and used some foam rectangles I had laying around to fill as much void as I could.
So far, so good. Attachment 61795

I was working on relocating my amp today as well. I decided to put it where the OEM amp was. Had to dremel off a couple bolts and cut off some styrofoam, but I think it turned out okay. Velcroing the amp down sounds like a good idea although it really doesn't seem to budge in my current setup. Attachment 61796

@mit_peid, looking good! I considered cutting the styrofoam to fit the opening but in the end I didn't. I might do it if the foam rectangles cause me trouble.

One weird thing, my Door Unlocked light now comes on and off when I turn the volume higher...
It could be the vibrations in the trunk that throw the sensor off or some kind of electrical overload (doubt it)...

Any idea?

That does sound really weird. Are you sure the unlocked door light is tied to use of the volume? I was going to guess it maybe has something to do with the trunk latch or something but I have not idea. Maybe check your various grounds are secure? I did have some glitches with different battery (12VDC) and remote triggers with use of my microbypass, but found a configuration that is relatively error-free.

Well it hasn't happened since the first day I was running it so... Fingers crossed.
About the enclosure, I should say that it's very well made, fits very snuggle and blends very well into the trunk "landscape".

My only problem is to find a good way to secure it though. Since it doesn't have a flat bottom, it needs to be propped up a little to fit in the corner and I'm still to find a good system (using flat, adjustable length bungee cord for now but the limited number of holes to anchor it is making it unreliable).

Any suggestions appreciated.

Didn't their website recommend using Velcro to hold the box up?

Unfortunately most fiberglass corner load enclosures on the market today do not come with a mounting solution, leaving the customer to figure it out. Most people will settle on the quickest and easiest available solution which is a couple of strips of industrial grade Velcro on the bottom, and a lot of times this is all that is needed to keep it snug. However, even for an enclosure with a great fit, this sometimes is not enough when your talking about a combined weight of 25-35 pounds between the enclosure and sub, and no grill to protect the subwoofer if the Velcro looses its grip and the enclosure flies across the trunk. You mentioned that the bottom of this enclosure is not flat making it tip a bit, and this may also make it difficult to use Velcro strips, not to mention you have the carpeted floor covered with a textured weather mat so if you try to use Velcro there it may not adhere properly or at all. You could do Velcro on the back of the enclosure, but the carpet pile of the factory liner is a bit thinner and more matted in this area so Velcro never seems to work as well there as on the bottom. Maybe the manufacturer has a solution for this or another suggestion for mounting their enclosure.

I personally think that the best way to mount this enclosure in your situation is to bolt through the inside of the enclosure to the car body similar to that of the JL Stealthbox available for this vehicle (pictures and description is available in the manual on their website). The only unfortunate thing about this is it means having to remove the sub to get to the bolt if you ever want to take the enclosure out, oh and cutting a hole in your trunk liner.

To maybe help spark some additional ideas for you:

We incorporate a quick release, tool less, tab mounting system for our 10" Integrity Enclosures, and a tool less hand knob and bracket mounting system for our 8" Integrity Enclosures, but I don't think either idea could be easily adapted for the enclosure in question. Here is a quick link of our 10" Integrity Enclosure mounting solution for your reference: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=31813&page=10

There are a lot of other solutions to mount enclosures like this, but I honestly think that the bolt through option I suggested earlier will be the best solution for your situation. Best of luck.

Dan - Integrity Concepts

Nice, with the enclosure can you still have a rear strut brace?

Anybody tried these sub enclosures before?
 

Velcro is tricky because every part of the enclosure rests against the carpeted trunk liner so it won't easily stick.

Anybody tried these sub enclosures before?
 

Thanks for your writeup, Dan. For me, having to remove the grill and speaker to get to the bolts inside the enclosure is a non-starter.
I'll check out the link you suggested.

I don't have any but based on this pic I found, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be a problem. Attachment 62580

Back to back hook sides of the Velcro (2 hook side Velcro strips stuck sticky sides together) between the carpeted surfaces of the enclosure and trunk liner, is how you get it to grip, but again this may not be enough in your situation and with this enclosure since you cannot place it on the bottom.

I can understand if you prefer not to bolt through the inside of the enclosure, so fabricating a bracket to a factory clip location may be your only other resonable option (but I think most of the factory clips in that area are located behind the enclosure you have).