Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB - Installing Dynamat on doors: OK to leave the black glue?

- Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27)

- - Installing Dynamat on doors: OK to leave the black glue? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13753)

If you pulled off the moister barrier you should cover the whole door. The Dynamat will then act as a replacement barrier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gir (Post 915584)

If you pulled off the moister barrier you should cover the whole door. The Dynamat will then act as a replacement barrier.

Yeah photo doesn't show I finished product.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gir (Post 915584)

If you pulled off the moister barrier you should cover the whole door. The Dynamat will then act as a replacement barrier.

Dynaliner would be better to replace the barrier. Leave the CLD on the outer skin.

Here is the near-finished product on the passenger side. I sealed the open holes with pieces of a "For Rent" sign and some duct tape and then some additional application of CLD (FTMAT).

I really like the way the 6.5" speaker sounds now with the holes sealed. I also really like the sound of how the door shuts. With the driver side undone and the passenger as it is right now, I can really tell and hear the difference.

I think I should probably try to put a layer of Dynaliner (CCF) in between the inner skin and the door card. For those of you guys that have done it, does CCF make that much of a difference? Not sure if I'm going to do MLD though as recommended at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mit_peid (Post 915845)

ccf didnt make much if any of a difference for me. Personally I dont think all cars need cld,ccf, and mld. most are fine with just cld.
I did the dynaliner because I had it already, but I really dont think it was needed.

Since I didn't answer the OP's question: yes, it's fine to leave the black glue. However, it is ultra super duper easy to take that black glue off if you still have your moisture barrier sheets - the "glue" tends to stay stuck to the plastic moisture barrier so you can just dab it on to the "glue" that is still stuck to your door and pull it away. The "glue" will stick to itself and if you pull it off quickly enough, you'll have no black stuff on the door.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moshpit37 (Post 359575)

I am attempting to install Dynamat for the first time in my doors, and I removed the plastic moisture barrier per the instructions, but the adhesive left on the door is so soft and sticky that it's a pain in the ass to try and remove. The more I try to scrub it off (after using some adhesive remover) the more it seems that I'm just spreading it around. Is it OK to just put the Dynamat over the adhesive?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mit_peid (Post 915278)

I'm installing GTMAT right now on my FRS. 25ft^2 of GTMAT Ultra (80mil) cost me $60 shipped & no tax from Amazon.link The kit also comes with a little roller than really helps with installation (you need to buy it separate with Dynamat - another $15).

The 25ft^2 should be enough to make a difference.... installed in the two doors, the trunk lid, and some light use under the spare tire... it really all depends on how much weight you want to add to a light sports car. For the doors, I have about 30% coverage on the outer skin, and 30% coverage on the inner skin (focused around the 6.5" woofer). Websites on this stuff says the important thing (besides eliminating rattles) is to separate the air from the front of the woofer from the air behind the speaker. That's why I bought some "For Rent" signs and duct-taped the few holes that exist on the inner skin. I'm still looking for something similar to Dynaliner for between the inner skin and the door card. Be careful not to overdo the trunk liner or else the auto trunk release may not open the trunk cause its too heavy. Make sure you also take care of the rear license plate/frame cause that is a very common source of rattles.

Here's a "work-in-progress" photo from Saturday.... I can post some more of the finished product later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzinbill (Post 916065)

For most of you I'm guessing that you're dynamating for the improved audio and that's a great advantage but what about the outside road noise and improved cabin quietness even over things like road noise or a loud exhaust?

Necro-thread - anyone have a DIY on this for taking the doors apart? I know, remove it all, wrap it up, put it back together. Right, got it.

I'm wondering if there are any tricks to getting the door panels off/on without breaking clips or fasteners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PollosHermanos (Post 1755188)

Screwdriver with tape on the end. Wiggle it under the silver inlay of the door handle... from the bottom or from the side at the bottom. Lever that tab out, and swing the inlay upward. Slip it out of the upper slot.

Undo the 2 bolts and using a panel popper or gently pulling every 6" around the side, bottom and other side. Lift the assembly upward. Find the electrical clips and unclip them. Find the door lock cables and fiddle with them until the balls come loose (hu hu hurr).

No major issues with this door, just be slow and gentle until you get comfortable with the layout.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PollosHermanos (Post 1755188)

Search is your friend: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...highlight=door

Quote:

Originally Posted by cnk (Post 1755294)

Search is your friend: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...highlight=door

TIL I suck at searching.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmjjensen (Post 360537)

I just did this on my BRZ and the doors are now rock solid. Next up is that rattling rear :sigh:

I HAVE 75FT OF DYNAMAT ,AND STILL TOOK OUT MY 3RD BRAKE LIGHT :popcorn:.......................

I am still in the process of gutting my interior. Trunk is done to include the entire rear deck...and the SOB is still rattling! That 3rd brake light is a crappy piece of engineering. I think separating the assembly and Gorilla gluing it is my final answer before shooting it in the face.

Roof, floor, firewall, and tunnel are the next two days of work.