It's a rubber pad to provide paint protection or some flexibility if you decide to lift something besides the car (example : lifting the engine - which you want to make sure you do it right if you decide to do that)


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You technically can lift by the pinch welds but they do not hold weight well and can be bent and damaged easily. They are the most fragile pinch welds I have seen on any car.

If you land the car on jack stands, be sure the weight is distributed evenly on both sides or else the welds will bend or damage with the weight sagging all on one side.

My observations is that these pinch welds are three sheets of cheap metal pressed together to form the rocker area. It's a horrible design. I have seen cheap Hondas with better pinch welds than that.

As most mentioned..jack the car on the mentioned jack points...look it up on the DIY section some where. If car is too low to clear your jack, roll it on thicker blocks of wood or ramps to give clearance.

Good luck.

I love how people with not education in the Automotive field are telling someone thats been in the trade for 4 years now, that he's wrong. Its one of the first things that you learn as a tech. I didn't know that everyone here thats been saying not to lift by the pinch welds were those that built the vehicle and are saying the printed documentation is wrong.

Yes you can. It will work 100%
Will it damage the car? No, but you'll bend the pinch welds. 100% just cosmitic damage.
Is it ideal? Not really.
You'll be better off cutting some 2x4s to drive on. Then lift from the front/rear jack points.

And to the pinch weld scardy cats, don't be a *****.

I know I'm supposed to jack from the subframe and diff but the issues was that ones the coils where installed the jack was gonna hit the bumper! But I just went to a shop


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I had the same issue when I lowered my car. My standard 3 ton jack was not low enough to get under the front bumper to the jacking point. For an immediate solution, I cut some 2x8 to about 24" long and just drove the front wheels onto them, and the jack slid under.

For a longer term solution, harbor freight sells a 2 ton long reach jack for $140, even less when its on sale:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-60678.html

Its low enough to get under most lowered cars. The jack is heavy, but if you're like me and only leave it in your garage, weight isn't a factor. Its also got a very high lift, which is nice for doing transmissions.

If anyone dont want to cut the wood board, use phone book or thick college text book. I know it may sound so cheap, but it works every time and it is free and easy to store (just throw it to the corner lol)

I have jacked up this car by the pinch welds and they FOLD OVER immediately.
They CANNOT support the weight of the car unless you have the "puck" device that supports on either side of the pinch.


Drive the car up on a 2X4 and then use the low profile jack to jack on the jack points identified in the manual.


I can almost guarantee that ALL of the people above that said that it is OK to jack by the pinch welds have not done it on this car

Oh sorry, I forgot that I wasn't lifting by the pinch welds 😒http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...62ed4b75cd.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0f9b76353e.jpg


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Now do an experiment:
Let the car down off the LIFT.


Jack it up by one corner with a FLOOR JACK
and watch the pinch weld fold over like a limp ....

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_VcwWjFf-4"]Exhaust note comparison - stock vs Tomei Expreme 80R - YouTube[/ame]

Jacked up on pinch weld.
Sitting on pinch weld.

-alex

Jacking points?
 

Dude. I had to lift each individual corner of the car to get the hoist arms under it 😂 fuck you're dumb.
No - the hoist doesn't sit low enough for the arms to swim under it without lifting


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I must be SOO dumb that I folded over two of my pinch welds before deciding I should not do that anymore.


I guess the gravity in my area is stronger than yours.


I would go video it doing it again but I don't want to fuckup another one just to prove a point.