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Old 07-28-2013, 10:34 PM   #1
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Direct Injector Seal Installation | Video and Issues

DIRECT INJECTION TECH
SEAL REPLACEMENT AND MANIFOLD REMOVAL





VIDEO SHOWING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

0:00-2:00 Tech Overview
2:00-3:00 The Problem
3:15-15:20 Removal of Intake Manifold and Port Injectors
15:20-18:30 Direct Injector Overview
18:30-27:00 Injector Seal Replacement
27:00-30:25 Re-Install of DI, Intake Manifold and Port Injection
30:25-33:00 Final Thoughts


FOUL LANGUAGE WARNING


Welcome to the D4S injector seal discussion thread.
Please use this thread to discuss and provide any information you have in regards to this issue. Questions or Facts are welcome as we attempt to clarify and dispel myths.

This is NOT a DYI. It is a guide to show process and discuss.



REMOVAL OF INTAKE MANIFOLD AND INJECTORS LABOR:


  • Removal and re-installation of intake manifold - 3.0 HOURS
  • Fuel System Precautions - 10 MINUTES
  • Port Injector Seal Replacement - 5 MINUTES
  • Direct Injector Seal Replacement - 1.5 Hours


SPECIAL TOOLS NEEDED:

  • SST Seal Tool: OT09260-39020-01
  • Motor Oil and Engine Part Cleaner


NON RE-USABLE PARTS:
  • Port Injector O-Rings
  • Direct Injector fuel lines (QTY2)
  • DI Backup Ring, Insulator, Primary Seal and O-rings


OVERVIEW AND IMPRESSIONS



As usual with any project you tackle for the first time we prepared for at least 8 hours in the shop. Removal of the intake manifold was aided by using the factory service manual and the Innovate Supercharger instructions. We took our time initially, removing everything was mostly straight forward.

The major thing we can recommend is to have all the parts you need and back up seals and o-rings for the direct injectors ahead of time and plan for the fact these parts are on back order.

We had one MAJOR ISSUE during re-installation. When we had everything re-installed we had a fuel leak on one of the port injectors.
This was because an o-ring sheared off during install. Luckily we had back up rings. This is a potential problem for everyone. Luckily it was not on the direct injection as this would have set back the process hours.
been a major setback.

We also had a start stall issue right after, which seemed to be solved by removing the negative battery cable and resetting the ECU.



DIRECT INJECTOR SEALS


We found a fair amount of play in all of the injector seals up and down the shaft even after the primary seal was replaced. It appears this is because Toyota designed a bevel on the shaft.






We can assume that this play in the seal was by design. Our problem was it only effected two of the four injectors which personally I am not comfortable with. As it creates inconsistency. Our findings have been submitted to our local Toyota dealership for the regional technician to clarify. This condition is not listed in the service manual for trouble shooting.


As you can see this is the information we submitted to get clarification.








DIRECT INJECTOR SEAL INSTALLATION



Installing the new seals for those who have not done it before requires patience and practice. We tried our best to show the method that worked best for us but be prepared and but extra seals if this is your first time as it is almost likely you will destroy at least one seal your first attempt.


Plan on 20 minute per injector for the seals. The manual process to press them on is arduous. We used plenty of oil on the press plate by the 3rd seal install to aid process and to get seal on smoothly. Allowing seal to relax before pressing also helped.








Please note you can just order the injector as the seals come pre-installed however you would need to pull the injectors first to inspect the stratified flow number stamped on the injector. The number is either 1, 2 or 3.
All 4 injectors need to be the same number and carry different part numbers. The difference is the angle at which the tips spray fuel into the cylinder. What the variance is... Unknown.







FINAL THOUGHTS

The white teflon seals are extremely fragile, removing the old seals is as simple as pinching with needle nose pliers and they shred. While installing the seals I damaged it with a finger nail that is how soft they are.

With that said, injector failure due to seals could be easily related to detonation or faulty install from the factory. Since the injector body is beveled I could see these easily blowing up on the shaft and cracking off if damaged during install. In terms of heat destroying them, that seems unlikely but possible if they are cracked or damaged.



SHOULD PEOPLE WORRY?

I think after removing and replacing them, one thing is clear and please use the illustration below. If the seal has failed, symptoms will appear and persist. It's not something that will come and go. Rough idle and popping from the intake won't just magically disappear if the seal is gone. Misfires will also be common, and you may get a CEL or rough idle but no popping.

If you have the issue, you will know and take care if it right away.
If you have some idle drop, a pop once you never hear again. It's likely not the seals.

Its totally possible a failing seal will cause some random issues, however they will get worse and more prevalent until seal disintegrates.

If you are running a stock car under warranty, drive it like normal, and don't worry until symptoms are frequent (AKA Almost every drive).

If you go and pound the hell out of the car and up and down the rev band, and don't have any strange pops or misfires, chances are you are totally fine. Again, its something that would show itself with symptoms.





Out of Warranty High HP Users:

If you buy this car used, or are running high HP or were on the stock ECU tune for plenty of miles or your logs show plenty of detonation, pull the injectors and inspect the seals. It's a cover your ass measure until we get a straight answer as to what the root cause is from Toyota.

Last edited by Dezoris; 07-30-2013 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:34 PM   #2
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Service Manual Install for Seals
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Last edited by Dezoris; 07-31-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:36 PM   #3
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UPDATE:
SECRET OWNER PROVIDED THESE PICTURES.

It is possible to see the stratified indexing number on the injector under the intake manifold without removal. However this may require a mirror or camera and good lighting. Your best shot is to find the index number on Bank1 injectors behind the AC compressor by looking under the intake manifold.

Attached Images
 

Last edited by Dezoris; 07-30-2013 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:37 PM   #4
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This is money, thanks for taking the time to do this.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:38 PM   #5
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Nice, I sure hope I never see this issue.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:40 PM   #6
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Great info, thanks a lot!
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:41 PM   #7
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I hope to add to this as I get more answers and clarification.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:45 PM   #8
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Awesome.

Actual tool use was different from what I assumed
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJCarbine View Post
Awesome.

Actual tool use was different from what I assumed
I am going to give you the new one I just got in as I dropped yours like 5 times when the hat comes flying off the tip.

Thanks a ton for lending it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
I am going to give you the new one I just got in as I dropped yours like 5 times when the hat comes flying off the tip.

Thanks a ton for lending it.
No problem, I hope I never have to use it myself
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:08 PM   #11
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:10 PM   #12
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Thanks for providing this info, very helpful after reading all the threads on this topic.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:18 PM   #13
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Wow...thank you!
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:57 PM   #14
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Many thanks, were are you located in Illinois?
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