What should I look out for when buying used?

[why?]

Originally Posted by FineVisionz

Well fortunately enough for me, I live in a fairly flat area with smooth roads. Are you still on stock suspension/ride height? If you are, doesn't the sti front lip only "lower" the front of the car maybe 1 - 1.5 inch?

I am still on the stock suspension, but since I removed everything I could behind the front seats the car actually is raised a bit.

I'm not sure it is even that much lower, I had no problems with it when I was living in Mass. It is just this area can get random torrential downpours that rival Florida and I'll also admit I'm not one of those people that is going to baby any car.

[wild03]

Originally Posted by Chikna

What am I doing wrong here? When I shift to second gear, tachometer goes way down and when I release the clutch, tach jumps? For example, when I shift at 3,000 RPM, tach goes to 1,500 RPM during gear change, and while releasing the clutch tach jumps back and forth around 2,000 RPM.

You said, that's what you are doing wrong.

I try to only drop about 500 rpm. Ideally if you match the rpm for that gear at the going speed the shift would be smooth...I think.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Chikna

What am I doing wrong here? When I shift to second gear, tachometer goes way down and when I release the clutch, tach jumps? For example, when I shift at 3,000 RPM, tach goes to 1,500 RPM during gear change, and while releasing the clutch tach jumps back and forth around 2,000 RPM.

You are taking too long to complete the shift. You are also probably fully lifting off the throttle when really you want to lift just enough to drop the revs about 1000 before letting the clutch back out. It just takes practice. You will get the timing with lots of practice and then it becomes second nature.

Edit: this morning on the way to work I paid more attention to how much I lift (like I said it becomes second nature and you no longer think about it) and I do actually fully lift. But I also complete my shifts quickly so I don’t need to do a partial lift to prevent the revs from dropping too fast or too much.

[wild03]

Originally Posted by ermax

You are taking too long to complete the shift. You are also probably fully lifting off the throttle when really you want to lift just enough to drop the revs about 1000 before letting the clutch back out. It just takes practice. You will get the timing with lots of practice and then it becomes second nature.

Edit: this morning on the way to work I paid more attention to how much I lift (like I said it becomes second nature and you no longer think about it) and I do actually fully lift. But I also complete my shifts quickly so I don’t need to do a partial lift to prevent the revs from dropping too fast or too much.

I concur with the 1k drop at least from 1stt to second. Also if you are a slow shifter youll probably have to let the clutch out slowly as you rev engive to match the rpm for that gear at that speed...

Anyone knows of a graph for the speed to rpm for each gear?

[Chikna]

Originally Posted by wild03

I concur with the 1k drop at least from 1stt to second. Also if you are a slow shifter youll probably have to let the clutch out slowly as you rev engive to match the rpm for that gear at that speed...

Anyone knows of a graph for the speed to rpm for each gear?

I was asked to release throttle completely during gear changes and once gear is changed then apply throttle. Do you think my teacher is wrong and how do I correct it now? Thanks.

[ZionsWrath]

OP, listen to the engine. Know the difference between HPFP, DI, and engine knock.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by wild03

I concur with the 1k drop at least from 1stt to second. Also if you are a slow shifter youll probably have to let the clutch out slowly as you rev engive to match the rpm for that gear at that speed...

Anyone knows of a graph for the speed to rpm for each gear?

I've been meaning to hunt down a tool for generating charts and just never think about it. Thanks for reminding me. I found this one that looks really freaking cool:
https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx

Or use this link to preset all the details for a 2013 MT with 215/45R17:
https://apx6u.app.goo.gl/gu73

[DandoX]

In addition to everything that has been said. I always look closely at the engine hood liner or the condition of the underside of the hood which can tell you if anything has sprayed fluid anywhere or abnormal heat markings. Also get the car lifted on stands and crawl around under there with a flashlight, look for rust, broken metal and the condition of everything in general. Typically you can get a rough ideal of how the car was treated from doing those things.

[wild03]

Originally Posted by ermax

I've been meaning to hunt down a tool for generating charts and just never think about it. Thanks for reminding me. I found this one that looks really freaking cool:
https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx

Or use this link to preset all the details for a 2013 MT with 215/45R17:
https://apx6u.app.goo.gl/gu73

That's a nice tool, thank you.

[wild03]

Originally Posted by Chikna

I was asked to release throttle completely during gear changes and once gear is changed then apply throttle. Do you think my teacher is wrong and how do I correct it now? Thanks.

I'm no expert, but I don't think it matters if you release throttle completely. What matters is that when you are on the next gear your rpm matches where the rpm should be for that gear at that speed.
For example, you rev to 3k on 1stgear and get to 15mph, you release throttle, shift, but by the time the clutch is engaging if the rpm are not close to 2k the car will jerk as the rpms from engine and transmission equalize.

See the tool posted above.

Releasing throttle completely is a way to prevent over reving or something.

I imagine that an expert just let's off the throttle a bit shifts and gets back on the throttle in a fluid motion.

[EAGLE5]

Beyond the normal things, I'd look for signs of a turbo or supercharger install. I'd avoid heavily modded cars. Most aftermarket suspension setups are worse than stock. Get a manual. Have a good mechanic give an inspection.