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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 05-18-2015, 06:48 PM   #2745
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Seriously, why not the Walbro pickups? I'm sure it's a chore, so is anything to do with the fuel system. It's all internal to the tank, so no worries about a fire.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:17 AM   #2746
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Originally Posted by jsimon7777 View Post
Seriously, why not the Walbro pickups? I'm sure it's a chore, so is anything to do with the fuel system. It's all internal to the tank, so no worries about a fire.
What are Walbro pickups?
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:56 AM   #2747
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
You need to step up the pads and the fluid.

You're getting the pads hot enough that they're fading (overheating) at the end of the sessions, and losing their bite. If you haven't already, you'll boil the ATE 200 (mushy pedal) as you get faster and step up the pads.

We can help you with both. If you like the feel of the HC+800, try the Club Racer or 999 (approximately double and triple the cost of the HC+800).
What do you recommend instead of ATE? A lot of the guys out here in arizona have been using 200/super blue for years.
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:46 AM   #2748
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What do you recommend instead of ATE? A lot of the guys out here in arizona have been using 200/super blue for years.
In order of boiling resistance from lowest to highest:

ATE 200/Superblue
RBF600/AP Racing/Brembo
RBF660/Ferodo
Endless
Project Mu
Torque

If you have a properly sized braking system for your given skill level, setup, and usage, you will not boil RBF600. However, keep in mind that most cars are street cars, designed for street use, so when you track them, the system will most likely be undersized.

You can go overkill and start with Torque, or start entry level with RBF600. Torque is about double the price of RBF600, and all the fluids in the bottom 4 rows cost roughly the same.
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:51 AM   #2749
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Great, thanks. Going out tomorrow for the first time, just flushed the system with Type200; will be on all of the stock things. Just hoping the tires don't chunk apart!
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:24 PM   #2750
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What are Walbro pickups?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=walbro+pickups
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:34 PM   #2751
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Essex AP Racing sprint kit caliper bracket removal?

After 20 track days on the puny stock brakes I was dead set to get the Essex AP Racing sprint kit, but I saw in the install instructions that the caliper bracket is bolted using high strength loctite
Once I install the Essex AP Racing sprint kit, what am I supposed to do if I want to swap de brakes? If the AP Racing brakes have a problem or if I just want to have them rebuilt, I need to be able to temporarily install the OEM brakes; the car is my dd too ...
I know that kind of loctite can be removed by heating to 500F, but heating the spindle to 500F is not my idea of easy, trouble-free maintenance.
What do you guys do to remove that caliper bracket? Or do you just accept the idea that the AP Racing brakes are forever?
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:11 AM   #2752
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After 20 track days on the puny stock brakes I was dead set to get the Essex AP Racing sprint kit, but I saw in the install instructions that the caliper bracket is bolted using high strength loctite
Once I install the Essex AP Racing sprint kit, what am I supposed to do if I want to swap de brakes? If the AP Racing brakes have a problem or if I just want to have them rebuilt, I need to be able to temporarily install the OEM brakes; the car is my dd too ...
I know that kind of loctite can be removed by heating to 500F, but heating the spindle to 500F is not my idea of easy, trouble-free maintenance.
What do you guys do to remove that caliper bracket? Or do you just accept the idea that the AP Racing brakes are forever?
Low strength loctite and safety wire?
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:18 AM   #2753
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Originally Posted by marusteri View Post
After 20 track days on the puny stock brakes I was dead set to get the Essex AP Racing sprint kit, but I saw in the install instructions that the caliper bracket is bolted using high strength loctite
Once I install the Essex AP Racing sprint kit, what am I supposed to do if I want to swap de brakes? If the AP Racing brakes have a problem or if I just want to have them rebuilt, I need to be able to temporarily install the OEM brakes; the car is my dd too ...
I know that kind of loctite can be removed by heating to 500F, but heating the spindle to 500F is not my idea of easy, trouble-free maintenance.
What do you guys do to remove that caliper bracket? Or do you just accept the idea that the AP Racing brakes are forever?
You just undo the bolt. You can break it without heating it to 500F. I've done it before several times. Don't use a ton, a tiny dab is all you need.
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:19 AM   #2754
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Low strength loctite and safety wire?
If you know of pre-drilled bolts the right size, I'm all ears; I'd prefer to safety wire it too.
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Old 05-22-2015, 01:25 AM   #2755
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If you know of pre-drilled bolts the right size, I'm all ears; I'd prefer to safety wire it too.
Honestly I think it's silly a "racing" brake kit wouldn't come with drilled bolts. Definitely a concern worth bringing up with the manufacturer. It could be possible to convince them to change the kit and offer the bolts for sale separately. I bought the little jigs a long time ago to drill them out myself.
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:10 AM   #2756
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You just undo the bolt. You can break it without heating it to 500F. I've done it before several times. Don't use a ton, a tiny dab is all you need.
Cool, I'll play with loctite on some spare bolts to see how much I can put and still undo it. If the aluminum thread on the bracket gets damaged, can I buy the bracket only?

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Low strength loctite and safety wire?
Good idea, even if I have to drill these bolts myself.
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Old 05-22-2015, 02:14 AM   #2757
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Cool, I'll play with loctite on some spare bolts to see how much I can put and still undo it. If the aluminum thread on the bracket gets damaged, can I buy the bracket only?


Good idea, even if I have to drill these bolts myself.
I find that very unlikely, but yes.
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Old 05-22-2015, 10:14 AM   #2758
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Disable power steering. Seriously.

It's a great "guide" for when you're pretty close to overworking the front tires and understeering; it helped me learn the car much faster than I would have without.
Wait. This is possible!? Been wanting to do this since I bought the car. Is there a How To out there?
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