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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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05-21-2019, 10:35 PM | #15 |
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Honestly, based on how that stack is, I can only blame heatsoak from the headers superheating your oil pan. The thermostat would only affect this negatively if it's opening late/not at all, if it's open all the time then that just says the oil cooler is not enough for your application.
I wish I had more to add, talk to the engine builder and see what they think. May be time to rent a flir camera and get to researching where the heat is coming from. |
05-23-2019, 07:13 PM | #16 | ||
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Hmm will have to try the thermostat testing, not sure I have it in me to take it all out and start again, need to find a quiet weekend. Awesome, we should go fora drive! Quote:
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05-23-2019, 08:05 PM | #17 |
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I would try and go for a coat rather than a wrap for safety just in case of oil leak
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05-23-2019, 10:38 PM | #18 |
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@thinkV I have the TC1 coat on my header which is excellent http://www.hpcoatings.com.au/coatings-2/
You mentioned that your engine builder has locked you in to using Valvoline - why ? ps: got a feeling my thermostat in the engine is playing up - bugger. |
05-24-2019, 09:55 AM | #19 |
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For the question about bleeding the oil cooler, any thermostatic plates I've seen are never fully closed to prevent the need for bleeding. They'll always flow a little bit of oil through the cooler, even when super cold.
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05-25-2019, 08:12 PM | #20 | |
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But i guess that’s probably irrelevant now. On a side note, my coolant temps sit at 100c all the time too, I thought this was normal. |
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05-27-2019, 08:09 PM | #21 | |
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05-27-2019, 11:07 PM | #22 | |
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I was quoted $400 for my 86 headers inside and out, I ended up wrapping, LOL. What are yours costing? I've used exhaust wrap and turbo beanies forever though, never once had any issues. A turbo manifold I had coated year ago ended up peeling after about 3 months, make sure you get a warranty. Buy a infrared temp gun, you can pick them up for around $100. Should help you track your temps. Infrared heat guns are really usefull for multiple things anyway, a great asset to your tool box.
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05-30-2019, 09:22 AM | #23 |
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Have you noticed if your temps go up when NOT using a/c?
The stock tune turns the fans on at hotter temps when not using a/c than when using a/c. This will affect your oil temps if sitting long in traffic. You can read about it here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64731 You can change that easily with the tune. Nothing to worry about though, my oil cooler also heat soaks a little when sitting in traffic. It's oil temps under load that you should be worried about.
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06-02-2019, 08:42 PM | #24 | |
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07-07-2019, 07:38 PM | #25 | ||
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So an update, all headers, downpipe, overpipe are coated with HPC turbo coating. I think the temps dropped maybe 1-2 degrees. I have also noticed that my Prosport gauge (sensor on the TRD sandwhich plate below the oil cooler sandwich plate on the stack) is reading much higher than my ECU reading. In traffic conditions (bumper to bumper) With AC on: ECU: 99c oil, 90c water Prosport Gauge: 105c oil In traffic with AC off: ECU: 102c, 100c water Prosport: 108-110c It was 13c outside this morning when I drove. Does this seem high? Screenshots of the ECU reading: ac on: https://i.imgur.com/ZkJCcl1.jpg ac off: https://i.imgur.com/EHUkZU8.jpg |
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07-07-2019, 08:53 PM | #26 |
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If I recall correctly the MAP oil cooler you're using is fairly small and is just enough for most NA cars on track, roughly. With a turbo I'm not surprised the temps are reaching as high as they are, coolant combined, especially if idling. You probably just need a bigger oil cooler. Likewise, heavier oils heatsoak faster and flow less and exchange heat out less efficiently. The temperature changes in your original post seem to correspond with the relative weather where you're located at as well, especially when idling and there's no airflow to exchange heat.
Consider a heavier duty oil cooler and possibly a thinner oil in conjunction, and hooded vents to keep bay temps down. Seems pretty straightforward to me, though there's not much one can do about idle heatsoak. Vented hoods should help with that though. |
07-07-2019, 10:24 PM | #27 | |
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Hmm okay, perhaps I need to change the core. Can you recommend one that I can just replace with already installed AN fittings? This is the kit at the moment (13 row): https://www.maperformance.com/produc...frs-subaru-brz I actually do have verus hood vents, and my engine bay temp seems very cool now with the coated pipes, I can touch them. |
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07-07-2019, 10:40 PM | #28 |
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@thinkV 1-2C temp drop can't be right, I can touch my header after a drive it's that cool. Prosport gauges aren't all that flash either from memory.
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