Sheared/Siezed ARP stud (after having 3 stock studs strip) - Page 5 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

NissanGuy · 06-22-2014, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dem00n

Squeeze one out before putting the lug nuts on, i know for some guys it's the most irrigating thing on earth.

Come again?

Laika · 06-22-2014, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NissanGuy

Come again?

No, just once.

stevo_12v · 06-22-2014, 08:59 AM

Question for the guys that broke their stock studs. Was this while the whole wheel assembly was warm/hot(after say a 20min drive) or when the wheel assembly was cold?

I might be OCD but I make a point to never swap wheels out if they are very warm due to different thermal expansion between the materials of the stud and nut. Also I spray a tiny bit of brake cleaner wire brush each stud whenever a wheel comes off.

dem00n · 06-22-2014, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laika

No, just once.

I had the longest laughing/coughing fit thanks to you.

Quentin · 06-22-2014, 10:41 PM

Make sure that you don't have grease/muck on the tapered faces of the lug nuts or the wheels. That lubricant will throw off your torque readings by a significant degree. If you are sloppy with anti-seize, you could be getting it on that friction surface.

Shankenstein · 08-25-2014, 05:49 PM

For those with ARP wheel studs... I'm taking the plunge.

Did you have to do anything special to make them fit?

This thread on NASIOC indicates that you need to grind the head slightly, if you plan to insert them without removing the hub. They used the ABS wheel speed sensor hole.
Link to Thread

Sportsguy83 · 08-26-2014, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mav1178

I guess I should add a +1 for ARP studs: I have KICS R40 lugs, and earlier this year I managed to almost cross-thread all 5 studs on the same corner because the wheels weren't torqued 100%. The lugs ended up being junk, however the ARP studs were fine and held up okay.

-alex

Just a thought, I bought some R40 from ebay and they were cheap imitations that look exactly like the real deal minus a few small differences. This cheap lug nuts were worthless and most damaged after two installs.

I then got the real deal Kicks R40 and they are GREAT. Very sturdy.

mav1178 · 08-26-2014, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Just a thought, I bought some R40 from ebay and they were cheap imitations that look exactly like the real deal minus a few small differences. This cheap lug nuts were worthless and most damaged after two installs.

I then got the real deal Kicks R40 and they are GREAT. Very sturdy.

Oh, mine are the real deal from Mackin.

-alex

Shankenstein · 08-26-2014, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Just a thought, I bought some R40 from ebay and they were cheap imitations that look exactly like the real deal minus a few small differences. This cheap lug nuts were worthless and most damaged after two installs.

I then got the real deal Kicks R40 and they are GREAT. Very sturdy.

My license for "ballin out of control" has been revoked... but I still got Muteki SR48 lug nuts.

The materials seem to be appropriate (AISI 50BV30 B steel). It's a Chromoly steel, but a bit more mild (less carbon and alloying elements).

Relatively happy with the materials and tolerances. They spin on effortlessly, and only a tiny bit of slop when seated.

qoncept · 08-26-2014, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

My license for "ballin out of control" has been revoked... but I still got Muteki SR48 lug nuts.

The materials seem to be appropriate (AISI 50BV30 B steel). It's a Chromoly steel, but a bit more mild (less carbon and alloying elements).

Relatively happy with the materials and tolerances. They spin on effortlessly, and only a tiny bit of slop when seated.

I have the Muteki lugs and ARP studs too. On and off several dozen times with the same results. No problems.

Tye300 · 01-01-2015, 05:46 PM

I recently changed to ARP lugs and now using the muteki open nuts. In this short time, I have two instances of the lug nuts seizing and be a pain to take off. The two instances led to cross threading of the studs. The muteki screw in fine, but there seems to be a problem when taking them out for some reason.

Mikeez · 01-01-2015, 11:00 PM

How do you fix this?

Don't you have to take the hub out o.o, because of the splash guard for the brakes?

JohnJacobsen · 01-29-2016, 08:43 PM

Ive run into this problem as well with the Muteki SR48 lug nuts. When I was taking wheels off lug nuts seized up when half way off on one wheel. Ended up trashing 5 studs. Replaced with new studs and nuts and new ones started to do the same thing. Lugs do not run on easily. Ended up running on and off a few times to wear them in. They seem to be ok now, will see when I pull them back off.

DocWalt · 01-29-2016, 11:26 PM

All these issues with the Muteki lugs.

I guess I'll just keep using OEM stuff for now and make sure to wire brush the studs clean every time...

08-25-2014, 05:49 PM	#62
Shankenstein Frosty Carrot Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: The Atomic Carrot Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 513 Thanks: 272 Thanked 428 Times in 199 Posts Mentioned: 19 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	For those with ARP wheel studs... I'm taking the plunge. Did you have to do anything special to make them fit? This thread on NASIOC indicates that you need to grind the head slightly, if you plan to insert them without removing the hub. They used the ABS wheel speed sensor hole. Link to Thread __________________ If you think you're nerd enough, join in the discussions about Suspension and Aerodynamic modelling! Wall of Fame - JDL Auto Design, Raceseng, Vishnu Tuning, Penske Shocks, Nameless, Perrin, RaceComp Engineering, Essex/AP Racing, Verus, RacerX Wall of Shame - aFe Takeda, Wilwood, FA20Club

01-01-2015, 05:46 PM	#67
Tye300 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: Toyota 86 TRD Version AT Location: Manila, Philippines Posts: 883 Thanks: 548 Thanked 599 Times in 283 Posts Mentioned: 20 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I recently changed to ARP lugs and now using the muteki open nuts. In this short time, I have two instances of the lug nuts seizing and be a pain to take off. The two instances led to cross threading of the studs. The muteki screw in fine, but there seems to be a problem when taking them out for some reason. __________________ Vortech Supercharged Flex Fuel 86 TRD AT Visit my build thread here.

01-01-2015, 11:00 PM	#68
Mikeez Engineering Student Join Date: Jan 2014 Drives: Scion FR-S 2015 Location: Montreal Posts: 628 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	How do you fix this? Don't you have to take the hub out o.o, because of the splash guard for the brakes? __________________ There’s no time to stop for gas, we’re already late

01-29-2016, 08:43 PM	#69
JohnJacobsen Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Drives: 2015 BRZ Limited Location: Taylor TX Posts: 8 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Same problem Ive run into this problem as well with the Muteki SR48 lug nuts. When I was taking wheels off lug nuts seized up when half way off on one wheel. Ended up trashing 5 studs. Replaced with new studs and nuts and new ones started to do the same thing. Lugs do not run on easily. Ended up running on and off a few times to wear them in. They seem to be ok now, will see when I pull them back off.

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06-22-2014, 10:41 PM	#61
Quentin Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Drives: ‘16 4Runner, ‘19 Corolla HB Location: Hurricane, WV Posts: 1,233 Thanks: 685 Thanked 813 Times in 435 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Make sure that you don't have grease/muck on the tapered faces of the lug nuts or the wheels. That lubricant will throw off your torque readings by a significant degree. If you are sloppy with anti-seize, you could be getting it on that friction surface.

01-29-2016, 11:26 PM	#70
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