Adjustable Camber Arms vs. Whiteline Camber Bushings

[digital_assassin]

I am looking to do either the GTSPEC Adjustable Rear Control Arms or the Whiteline KCA326 Camber Bushings. At this time I can't do both. The adjustable arms seem like a better solution for range of adjustment and ease of use whereas the bushing set seems like it wouldn't be as easy for a lineup shop to get right.

Are there any cons to doing the adjustable arms only? I would eventually replace the bushings when they come out with something that is just a bushing and not an adjustment piece.

[Borden]

I always doubt whether it's a good idea to adjust the lower control arm to get a camber we want. Besides the control arm, there's the lateral link and trail link in the lower portion, so once you change the length of the lower arms, you must adjust the lateral link to maintain a proper toe, and I don't know how the fixed length trail link will affect the geometry, but I think there must be some.

I think it's better to adjust the upper A arm, since it's the only arm in the upper portion, and its joint point is almost right above the driveshaft, so the side effect of adjusting it can be minimal. And the stress on the upper arm is way smaller than lower arms, I think maybe that's the reason why people usually prefer to have the upper arm adjustable in a double A configuration.

[digital_assassin]

That makes sense. I am on the fence for the bushing primarily due to install difficulty and not sure if I can tackle it on my own.

[Borden]

according to motoIQ's "A Tech Look Under the Scion FR-S!", the rear upper arm is heavy, so if you don't like the whiteline bushing, maybe you may hold a while for some upcoming complete upper arm.

[digital_assassin]

I need some camber adjustment ASAP. Dropped on KW's and need to correct it a bit.

[Borden]

Then I suppose now you've got too much negtive camber in the rear, right? Since negtive camber is a good thing generally, maybe you have a choice to leave it and add some more negtive camber in the front, to balance out the potential understeer, then you can have a car with higher grip limitation

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by Borden

Then I suppose now you've got too much negtive camber in the rear, right? Since negtive camber is a good thing generally, maybe you have a choice to leave it and add some more negtive camber in the front, to balance out the potential understeer, then you can have a car with higher grip limitation

Too much is just as bad as not enough.

As for the OP: The Whiteline bushings are certainly the less expensive solution. But they are harder to install and not as easy to adjust. Control arms will be quite a bit more pricey, but a lot easier to install and adjust. What works for you?

[digital_assassin]

The problem with the bushings is that I don't have a press and have no idea how much a shop will charge to install. I could buy a press and give it a go and it would be the less expensive route but if it didn't work out and I have to take it to a shop then I would probably be at the same $ amount as just buying adjustable arms, that is if it works with control arms only and not the trailing arms and toe adjusters too.

[GC_Adam]

[QUOTE=Borden;431910] Besides the control arm, there's the lateral link and trail link in the lower portion, so once you change the length of the lower arms, you must adjust the lateral link to maintain a proper toe, and I don't know how the fixed length trail link will affect the geometry, but I think there must be some.

OP,
The trailing arm your referring to will affect the caster portion of your rear alignment. So if you adjust your camber with the rear lower control arm then you'll have to adjust the toe (lateral link) and adjust the caster (trailing arm) which by the way is a fixed length. You'll be better off using the Whiteline bushings and being done with the alignment.

[digital_assassin]

[quote=GC_Adam;432115]

Originally Posted by Borden

Besides the control arm, there's the lateral link and trail link in the lower portion, so once you change the length of the lower arms, you must adjust the lateral link to maintain a proper toe, and I don't know how the fixed length trail link will affect the geometry, but I think there must be some.

OP,
The trailing arm your referring to will affect the caster portion of your rear alignment. So if you adjust your camber with the rear lower control arm then you'll have to adjust the toe (lateral link) and adjust the caster (trailing arm) which by the way is a fixed length. You'll be better off using the Whiteline bushings and being done with the alignment.

I'm gonna go talk with a "performance" alignment shop during lunch and see what they recommend. They will be doing the alignment and corner balance so I guess they should know if there is enough adjustment in the other components as well as provide an estimate for bushing install. I'll report back in an hour or so.

[Borden]

[quote=GC_Adam;432115]

Originally Posted by Borden

Besides the control arm, there's the lateral link and trail link in the lower portion, so once you change the length of the lower arms, you must adjust the lateral link to maintain a proper toe, and I don't know how the fixed length trail link will affect the geometry, but I think there must be some.

OP,
The trailing arm your referring to will affect the caster portion of your rear alignment. So if you adjust your camber with the rear lower control arm then you'll have to adjust the toe (lateral link) and adjust the caster (trailing arm) which by the way is a fixed length. You'll be better off using the Whiteline bushings and being done with the alignment.

That's very informative, thanks! I will dig this deeper later

[jamal]

To get the one bushing out of the arm a press doesn't work. You need to pry them out with an air hammer and chisel.

The biggest hassle though is just getting the arms on and off.

Whiteline designed an upper arm and had prototypes years ago but it ended up being something that couldn't be easily mass-produced and they didn't ever make them.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspe...u-wrx-sti.html

And there is an adjustable toe link available if the height/camber makes it so you run out of adjustment.

[digital_assassin]

My god my head is spinning.

The line up shop said that the bushings are a weak way to go if I'm trying to even out both sides because the adjustment is in the bushing not the bolt. Just press the bushings in and that's where you will live with it.

They said the control arms are a better option in their opinion but they have not worked on this car yet to know if there is enough adjustment in the toe once the control arm is changed out. They don't think it will be a problem but won't truly know until they try it out. Didn't even address caster from the trailing arm with them but they didn't bring it up either so maybe it's not a big deal.

I am starting to think that it may be a better choice to just do the front camber plates and have them align the rear the best they can. I need to raise the rear up by 1/2" anyway so some of the camber will come back out.

[Draco-REX]

The camber bushings are adjustable.

But how much camber are you trying to get?