07-08-2012, 11:37 AM | #29 |
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I will add the spring compressor method to the DIY as an alternative, but in my opinion I don't think that my method was unsafe at all. There is not very much load on these springs and by damping the end load (with the wheel) and the outside load (with the plywood on top) there is just nowhere for the spring to go.
I have used spring compressors before and it seems like a 50/50 safety effect. I have had the fingers slip from springs before, and also get jammed between coils. I have an Autozone literally one block away from my house that loans tools for free, but I don't feel safe using those crappy compressors. If someone does not feel comfortable with my methods then they should not attempt them, and I will modify my DIY to reflect that.
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07-08-2012, 11:46 AM | #30 | |
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Updated...
Quote:
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07-08-2012, 12:37 PM | #31 |
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Great write up, swapping springs/coilovers isn't rocket science but it's a formidable task if you've never done it before. Excellent use of photos to create a step by step writeup!
My .02 on the spring compressors... often you'll have a car friend who has a set collecting dust that you can borrow for free as well. They take more time to install/remove, and your method would probably work ok, but if you have access to them then it's best to use them. PS... I'm one of those guys that have a set collecting dust and will continue to collect dust because I plan to put coilovers on my FR-S.
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07-08-2012, 12:38 PM | #32 |
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DarrenDriven, you crack me up! What's next?, Super charger? Turbo, airplane mode? Submarine add on package? I just want to say thank you for doing all these things and showing us. The pictures and the how to classes are great. I think all of us can't wait for your next project.
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07-08-2012, 12:55 PM | #33 |
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You get an alignment yet? Of so have a recommendation for places to go?
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07-08-2012, 12:57 PM | #34 |
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Who did you buy from?
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07-08-2012, 01:33 PM | #35 |
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Thanks for adding the new excerpt about using spring compressors.. makes me feel better.
BTW.. You can get spring compressors at harbor freight for $14.99. Darren.. I'm not trying to rain on your parade.. it's a fantastic how to thread.. you did a great job. I've just been around the car forum world a long time and I've seen and heard too many stories of people cutting corners and getting hurt. Spring replacements are one of the more common places that people cut corners and make mistake and wind up hurting themselves. The worst issue has always been methods of lifting a car off the ground to work underneath it. It never ceases to amaze me the methods some people will use to lift a car.. and how they sometimes fail and sometimes kill people.. Anyhow, I'm just a stickler for being "proper" or "politically correct" when writing a how-to thread. We should always describe the proper way of doing something and make sure you say what the proper way is. Then if you've got a shortcut or creative method of your own.. go ahead and list that as well.. but always with a disclaimer saying that it's not the "proper" way. Anyhow.. sorry for the digression.. back to the topic at hand. Last edited by eikond; 07-08-2012 at 02:05 PM. |
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07-08-2012, 02:29 PM | #36 |
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It's usually a good idea to idea to load the rear suspension before torquing the bolts on a setup like this.
Jeff
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07-09-2012, 01:50 AM | #37 |
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Kwaziekeller, I agree that anyone with access to cheap or free compressors should take advantage of them. I'll repeat again that I think that it is too easy to use the compressors improperly and anyone that has doubts should take the struts to a professional. My method, which really only works well with air tools, has worked for me in situations where the spring is lightly loaded, such as the FR-S.
Roadstercycle, thanks for the props! Maybe I need to add smokescreen, oil slick and other Spy Hunter mods, hehe... hmm..... blu_, I haven't aligned yet because I am waiting for my D2 coilovers to arrive. I can recommend The Lineup Shop near 102nd & Glisan, though. They are very crusty, but they are reasonably priced and have done good work for me on my last couple of lowered cars (350Z and S2000). tonystewart, I have a friend that can get parts wholesale, so I ordered directly from the manufacturer through his account. I'm not doing it to make money, just to help get the scene started in the Portland area. eikond, I get it. I hope that my disclaimer helps. Jeff Lange, thank you for this tidbit. I am going to edit the DIY to reflect this.
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07-10-2012, 12:42 AM | #38 | |
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Quote:
Also, I added torque specs to the DIY, that should make things easier for people. Added the torque spec sheets at the very end of the DIY as well... I am pretty tired and I think that I got everything right, but if someone wants to double-check for me that would be great.
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07-10-2012, 01:06 AM | #39 |
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You don't need to do it on the ground. Either jack up the suspension while it is in the air to load the suspension, or use a drive-on hoist, such as many alignment shops use.
I always load the bushings before torquing the bolts. It's a mistake not to, IMO. Jeff
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07-10-2012, 02:32 AM | #40 |
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Ah, jacking the control arm up seems like the right way to do that. I edited the DIY to reflect that. Good idea.
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07-10-2012, 07:38 AM | #41 |
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It's a good idea to put load anywhere you tighten a bolt going through a suspension bushing
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07-10-2012, 07:40 AM | #42 | |
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