JDL turbo kit owners thread

[erok81]

So that fancy new drain didn't work either? I just got mine. If you're didn't work maybe I won't bother.

But I don't have a pte turbo, so maybe I won't have that issue. My last turbo was pte and it always leaked. Hmm...

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by yomny

Yep, I've already removed the drain line so many times I'm afraid to damage anything else. Last try is today, got cooper extra high temp gasket silicone. As suggested, applied it and hand tightened it, let it dry and tightened it a little more. Let's see how it goes but worse case I'll pull the turbo and wait for JDL to get a response from precision.

What's the torque on those oil fitting bolts?

[yomny]

Originally Posted by erok81

So that fancy new drain didn't work either? I just got mine. If you're didn't work maybe I won't bother.

But I don't have a pte turbo, so maybe I won't have that issue. My last turbo was pte and it always leaked. Hmm...

I'd say just go the regular method, mine was unheard of till a couple of weeks ago and I'm boosted going on 4-5 months, all day every day driving. It could be one of those things. Just hang on to the flange, it looks like a nice piece and it did hold the oil in longer than the other gaskets. To update my situation, the guys at JDL are getting me an RMA number, precision is going to take a look at the turbo as its under warranty. This is good news to me and speaks very well of the guys over at JDL and their precision dealer. I'm going to remove the drain line completely and inspect everything now that the turbo will be off. I want to make sure when putting things back, everything is as it was the first day it was installed.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by yomny

I'd say just go the regular method, mine was unheard of till a couple of weeks ago and I'm boosted going on 4-5 months, all day every day driving. It could be one of those things. Just hang on to the flange, it looks like a nice piece and it did hold the oil in longer than the other gaskets. To update my situation, the guys at JDL are getting me an RMA number, precision is going to take a look at the turbo as its under warranty. This is good news to me and speaks very well of the guys over at JDL and their precision dealer. I'm going to remove the drain line completely and inspect everything now that the turbo will be off. I want to make sure when putting things back, everything is as it was the first day it was installed.

They want the turbo back before you get a new one I assume? If so, how are you gonna dd? Gonna deal with super loud pipes for a week?

[yomny]

Originally Posted by Rybot

What's the torque on those oil fitting bolts?

Not sure as there really aren't instructions but if using with silicone, no more than 9ft lbs. if using a regular gasket I'd assume it could be tighter. This is going off several other precision install threads in other forums. I think there's not much to worry, it's either good or bad like in my case but it's not one of those things where a specia recipe has to be used to get it to not leak. When I installed the kit the first time, I tightened the drain flange bolts as tight as I could without trying to break anything or bend the allen key, didn't have any issues but something happened. Hopefully precision could determine the problem.

[yomny]

Originally Posted by Rybot

They want the turbo back before you get a new one I assume? If so, how are you gonna dd? Gonna deal with super loud pipes for a week?

Lol no I won't be driving the car, plus I won't have a turbo so I can't really drive it. I'll have to ship my turbo in, not sure if they'll replace or rebuild or what their process is. I'm riding the wife's Mini Cooper lol.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by yomny

Lol no I won't be driving the car, plus I won't have a turbo so I can't really drive it. I'll have to ship my turbo in, not sure if they'll replace or rebuild or what their process is. I'm riding the wife's Mini Cooper lol.

Mini Cooper S?

Either way, sucky day. They'll probably plane the flange if that's even the problem.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by Rybot

I hadn't planned on wrapping the intake, but if I find I need to, I guess it won't be terrible at all to pull it off and wrap it.

I think you are confused on what these different components are. The pipe that was "wrapped" was wrapped in a reflective tape to help reduce radiant heat. This pipe is a charge pipe. It has pressurized air that has been cooled via the intercooler. The turbo charger compresses air which increase the temperature and the intercoolers role is to attempt to get it as close as possible to ambient once again.

Your engine bay is a box with hot components in it. If you are not moving all that is moving the air through the bay is the fans. Which are blowing hot air from the front cooling elements into the bay. This results in a bay ambient temperature that is a fair bit higher than the ambient atmospheric temperature. This may be 10-50F above ambient.

As you are accelerating the velocity and volume of the air increases and the air through the MAF charge pipe (seen above) cools down due to the colder air passing through it. Due to the velocity of the air there is less heat transferred. conduction (not to be confused with radiant).

So looking at the bits above if you are sitting idle for a few moments and that ambient bay temperature starts to rise the charge pipe absorbs heat via methods of conduction and radiation (this pipe is typically black, and black has a very high radiant absorption capability). Due to the low velocity of the air going through this pipe it ends up soaking up the heat resulting in a high intake temperature. At low throttle bits and idle the car starts sucking up hot air. Hot air and hot fuel mixed together combust easier. Due tot his you have to pull timing from the ECU when the intake temperature is over a certain value. On the OEM ECU Map this starts happening at 50c. Here in Phoenix at idle I range 45-60C. So coming off the line and at very low throttle bits when I'm not moving much my car bogs due to the excessive heat. Adding a reflective wrap around the pipe can help reduce the effect by removing the radiant heat exposure and only allowing the conductive heat exposure.

You mentioned the intake pipe. The intake is attached to the turbo and is just a few inches long (if that). Insulating this does very little especially considering this air is going to go through the intercooler.

So yes even if you wrap / coat your hot components you still have a mass amount of heat being thrown into the bay by everything else that makes the car & ac work.

Wrapping the charge pipes is not at all required, and the car will run just fine without it. The difference when really getting aggressive with the car is minimal on that one piece but when people are trying to perfect everything every little bit adds up.

[yomny]

Originally Posted by Rybot

Mini Cooper S?

Either way, sucky day. They'll probably plane the flange if that's even the problem.

Yep the wife rides in a manual Cooper S, the pull on the turbo isn't as strong as the 86 but it's fun lol. Let's see if they just plane it I hope they plane it good, if that's even possible lol. I really don't want to have to go through this again as I now have to get a new T3 turbo gasket and another one for my downpipe to overpipe.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

I think you are confused on what these different components are. The pipe that was "wrapped" was wrapped in a reflective tape to help reduce radiant heat. This pipe is a charge pipe. It has pressurized air that has been cooled via the intercooler. The turbo charger compresses air which increase the temperature and the intercoolers role is to attempt to get it as close as possible to ambient once again.

Your engine bay is a box with hot components in it. If you are not moving all that is moving the air through the bay is the fans. Which are blowing hot air from the front cooling elements into the bay. This results in a bay ambient temperature that is a fair bit higher than the ambient atmospheric temperature. This may be 10-50F above ambient.

As you are accelerating the velocity and volume of the air increases and the air through the MAF charge pipe (seen above) cools down due to the colder air passing through it. Due to the velocity of the air there is less heat transferred. conduction (not to be confused with radiant).

So looking at the bits above if you are sitting idle for a few moments and that ambient bay temperature starts to rise the charge pipe absorbs heat via methods of conduction and radiation (this pipe is typically black, and black has a very high radiant absorption capability). Due to the low velocity of the air going through this pipe it ends up soaking up the heat resulting in a high intake temperature. At low throttle bits and idle the car starts sucking up hot air. Hot air and hot fuel mixed together combust easier. Due tot his you have to pull timing from the ECU when the intake temperature is over a certain value. On the OEM ECU Map this starts happening at 50c. Here in Phoenix at idle I range 45-60C. So coming off the line and at very low throttle bits when I'm not moving much my car bogs due to the excessive heat. Adding a reflective wrap around the pipe can help reduce the effect by removing the radiant heat exposure and only allowing the conductive heat exposure.

You mentioned the intake pipe. The intake is attached to the turbo and is just a few inches long (if that). Insulating this does very little especially considering this air is going to go through the intercooler.

So yes even if you wrap / coat your hot components you still have a mass amount of heat being thrown into the bay by everything else that makes the car & ac work.

Wrapping the charge pipes is not at all required, and the car will run just fine without it. The difference when really getting aggressive with the car is minimal on that one piece but when people are trying to perfect everything every little bit adds up.

The emissivity of the black body alone would have a larger cooling effect at idle than any other color, though with the added thickness of insulation, wrap might provide better cooling due to lower emissivity.

I'll pass on the wrap for now since I'm not chasing diminishing returns, but I'd do it for the aesthetic factor moreso than cooling in any case.

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by yomny

Yep the wife rides in a manual Cooper S, the pull on the turbo isn't as strong as the 86 but it's fun lol. Let's see if they just plane it I hope they plane it good, if that's even possible lol. I really don't want to have to go through this again as I now have to get a new T3 turbo gasket and another one for my downpipe to overpipe.

The gaskets are pretty cheap though, no?

[yomny]

Originally Posted by Rybot

The gaskets are pretty cheap though, no?

Yep, about 20 or so for both. Could also get away with not replacing it but I like to have piece of mind anytime I remove or replace anything.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by Rybot

The emissivity of the black body alone would have a larger cooling effect at idle than any other color, though with the added thickness of insulation, wrap might provide better cooling due to lower emissivity.

I'll pass on the wrap for now since I'm not chasing diminishing returns, but I'd do it for the aesthetic factor moreso than cooling in any case.

The gold wrap is not an insulator... No one in this thread has used an insulating wrap (unless i missed a post?)

[Rybot]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

The gold wrap is not an insulator... No one in this thread has used an insulating wrap (unless i missed a post?)

You didn't miss a post, I guess I just assumed the tape would add a fraction of an inch of insulation, though looking back all that would matter is color and reflectivity.

So I could just wrap the charge pipe in some heat resistant white reflective tape for a better effect? The less radiative heat absorbed during idle, the better? If so, then why gold? Presentation?

I think I may need to do some calculations.