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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 03-31-2014, 08:53 AM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toeout View Post
Well I tried the OE + NP gasket with no luck. Grimmspeeds are next.
You need to take the font / over pipe all the way loose from everything else when you tighten down the front flange, that is about the only way to prevent leaks unless you add some high temp sealant like ultra copper, and don't over tighten as that can cause leaks.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:01 AM   #4076
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Just about every aftermarket exhaust setup will produce some leaks without some finesse and re-positioning. It's nbd and can generally be solved with higher quality gaskets than what are included with the product.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:25 AM   #4077
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Originally Posted by mad_sb View Post
You need to take the font / over pipe all the way loose from everything else when you tighten down the front flange, that is about the only way to prevent leaks unless you add some high temp sealant like ultra copper, and don't over tighten as that can cause leaks.
I will tighten the over pipe to header first this time, before the header to block. I'm hesitant to disconnect the front pipe from the mid pipe though.

I do have the front pipe loose from the transmission.

Is there a correct torque sequence for the header to block nuts?
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:28 AM   #4078
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I went inside inside front front rear rear.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:32 AM   #4079
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Do you suggest to buy grimmspeed gasket set?

I have: Nameless Header / Nameless DP combo 2,5" / Perrin Resonated 3" catback.

Should I get the full gasket set plus the DP> 3" Catback gasket in addition or it shouldn't be needed? I live in Italy so I can't like you guys get a new gasket very easily in case it start leaking.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/grimmspeed...st-gasket-set/
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:39 AM   #4080
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I'd get full set + 3". The nameless adapter is a little flexible. Better safe than sorry
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:23 AM   #4081
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Originally Posted by FrsDuke View Post
It's definitely not the deep base most people love at high RPM, but I wouldn't call it tinny with the track pipe like it was with the stock axle back. I dunno how the catted nameless combo pipe would affect it, but I love it right now. I work out at COTA on Sunday and I'll get a little tunnel vid.

edit: driveway video
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...93372374107307
It is very mild mannered at cruise, but gets loud in a hurry when you get in it. I love it. Slight drone at 3800-4200 rpm but I'm never there for more than a very brief moment. Cruising rpm is well below that.
Interesting - that IS Italian sounding.
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Originally Posted by Slip Angle View Post
Give it a chance to warm up and try repositioning and tightening things up after it's hot. Mine leaked noticeably at first. I was able to tighten the bolts better after it got hot.
You must have the craziest oven mitts...
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:55 AM   #4082
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I haven't checked the one i put on yet, but i had a difficult time tightening that last nut near the overpipe flange.. I torqued it to 40 ft lbs using the grimspeed gasket..

with the stock exhaust and nameless overpipe resonated it certainly was loud.. almost raspy.. again, I'll need to smoke test the exhaust for any leaks before I can determine if there is any leaks..

also, not sure if it was mentioned here already, but if you have the OEM intake tube/airbox be sure to remove the tube before installing.. the resonator on the intake tube interferes with the header, you use the cap to block it off..
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:58 AM   #4083
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Quick tip if you don't want to jack up the engine, just remover the oil dip stick and they will fit into place.

Been running the header untunned with the spacer, still managed to get a check engine light.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:00 PM   #4084
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I hope nameless send instruction about how to fit it and what resonator to remove etc. etc.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:12 PM   #4085
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Originally Posted by Juanito08 View Post
Quick tip if you don't want to jack up the engine, just remover the oil dip stick and they will fit into place.

Been running the header untunned with the spacer, still managed to get a check engine light.
I just pushed with moderate pressure, it squeezed through.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:13 PM   #4086
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Originally Posted by Juanito08 View Post
Quick tip if you don't want to jack up the engine, just remover the oil dip stick and they will fit into place.

Been running the header untunned with the spacer, still managed to get a check engine light.
I just pushed with moderate pressure, it squeezed through. No lifting the engine, no dipstick removal here.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:25 PM   #4087
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Quick question for all you guys who also have it installed. How exactly are you determining the presence of exhaust leaks at the head to header connection?

I, like many of you, installed, tightened to factory spec, and got that really loud ticking/blowing sound on startup. I re-tightened to 31ft/lbs (still less than a lot of people are tightening to) and the noise happened again but then went away after the initial warm up cycle. I have since started it cold several times and have yet to hear a re-occurrence. Now I'm a bit paranoid because yesterday, I found a leak between the header and overpipe that only presented itself when I revved the engine.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:31 PM   #4088
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Quick question for all you guys who also have it installed. How exactly are you determining the presence of exhaust leaks at the head to header connection?

I, like many of you, installed, tightened to factory spec, and got that really loud ticking/blowing sound on startup. I re-tightened to 31ft/lbs (still less than a lot of people are tightening to) and the noise happened again but then went away after the initial warm up cycle. I have since started it cold several times and have yet to hear a re-occurrence. Now I'm a bit paranoid because yesterday, I found a leak between the header and overpipe that only presented itself when I revved the engine.
smoke machine.. but I haven't checked it yet, just installed it yesterday..
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