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Old 10-10-2013, 07:46 PM   #393
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Originally Posted by vincent201089 View Post
Another thank for your helpful tips. Just a quick question. If you can, please link a spraymax 2k product on ebay. I just wanna see the correct one to buy (confused between the white/blue lable and the one with a red square lable). Thanks a ton.
I believe they are the same, I ordered the red orangish label one on Amazon and got the blue in the shipment. I was like wtf then checked the part # and it's the same.

For those that are hesitant, just go for it. I was nervous too but pulled the trigger and it was really easy. Just take your time with the sanding and evenly coating with paint.

Just a little tip that worked for me..If you get a spec of dust or grass in the wet paint, gently pick it off with your nail right before your next coat.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:48 PM   #394
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Tips with Spraymax:

1. Wear a good quality respirator. That thing is different from the rattle cans and will mess up your lungs if inhaled.

2. Get as far away from anything you don't want to get oversprayed. I was 15-20 feet from my FRS and it still got hit. I had to claybar the whole car. Spraymax seems to have particles that travel far before drying up compared to rattle cans.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:50 PM   #395
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Originally Posted by xxscaxx View Post
I feel like I keep repeating myself lol, i'm pretty sure I have answered every question here but I will go through it again.

1. no - I cleaned my tails very well, then just started spraying.

2. 3-4 coats of metalcast. Yes, thin coats, take your time, and go until you have reached the desired darkness of color.

3. I only sanded in between the metalcast coats when I needed to (ex. if dirt/dust/hair got on the coat). I did NOT sand on the last coat of metalcast. The last coat was sprayed, let dry, then went into clearing.

4. I did not use the whole can of spraymax. I did 4-5 coats of clear (which was probably overkill but the can is useless after you mix it after 24hrs). Same process as the metalcast. Light layers, if you spray it on too heavy you will get run marks.

Hope this helps!
For #1, I disagree with this. I painted a piece of plastic before without sanding it, the paint peeled after a few months. There has to be something rough for the paint to grip on.

For #3, tack clothes can be used to get dust off freshly-painted surfaces.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincent201089 View Post
Another thank for your helpful tips. Just a quick question. If you can, please link a spraymax 2k product on ebay. I just wanna see the correct one to buy (confused between the white/blue lable and the one with a red square lable). Thanks a ton.
This is where I bought mine, exact one.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...clearcoat.aspx

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Originally Posted by retrosmiths View Post
Tips with Spraymax:

1. Wear a good quality respirator. That thing is different from the rattle cans and will mess up your lungs if inhaled.

2. Get as far away from anything you don't want to get oversprayed. I was 15-20 feet from my FRS and it still got hit. I had to claybar the whole car. Spraymax seems to have particles that travel far before drying up compared to rattle cans.
1. Agreed completely. Forgot to mention that. They mention it on the can and you also have to agree to wear one to even buy it lol.

2. Think this is kind of self explanatory, i'd never paint near my car, and if I did it would get covered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by retrosmiths View Post
For #1, I disagree with this. I painted a piece of plastic before without sanding it, the paint peeled after a few months. There has to be something rough for the paint to grip on.

For #3, tack clothes can be used to get dust off freshly-painted surfaces.
1. You can disagree, but I've had my tails for months painted and they are perfect. I wanted to sand them, but was worried it would take away from the clarity. Wasn't about to experiment on my only set of lights. I did spray a spare light I had, but I can't remember if I sanded or not. If my lights start acting up I will make sure to post it up in here but i'm not worried at all about them.

3. Agreed, I have tack cloths but not everyone has them. Also if the paint dries before you can use them, you will need to lightly sand to get it out.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:23 AM   #397
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Should i wait for each later of metal cast to dry COMPLETELY before apply the next one? and on avg how long should i wait? for each to dry, i know ambient and atm is gonna be a factor but just a rough estimate.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:44 AM   #398
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30 min in between on a nice day
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:08 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiz22 View Post
I have clear lens Spyder tails with black housing and really want the lens tinted red...Looks way cleaner on Raven

I have absolutely zero painting experience so am really worried to screw things up...Should I get someone to do this for me?

I also had zero experience installing anything electronic and managed to install my own Pioneer head unit so I'm not an idiot but as an engineer I always like to do things myself if possible! Any recommendations? Willing to spend some $ to make it perfect but not if it's not worth it or could easily be done myself (the DIY guides in this thread seem easy enough to follow but it's all about technique with painting which can't really be explained)
FYI @tiz22, @NorCal_Guy painted my tails and I just got them back today. They look awesome! You can check out the end results here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=34165&page=5

If you're interested, he can do yours too. Just send him a pm.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:38 AM   #400
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Originally Posted by Shindig View Post
FYI @tiz22, @NorCal_Guy painted my tails and I just got them back today. They look awesome! You can check out the end results here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=34165&page=5

If you're interested, he can do yours too. Just send him a pm.
They look great, i'll toss him a PM...Did you ship yours to him? I don't think I can do that cuz I won't have lights to drive around haha I sold my stocks
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Old 10-13-2013, 01:32 AM   #401
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They look great, i'll toss him a PM...Did you ship yours to him? I don't think I can do that cuz I won't have lights to drive around haha I sold my stocks
Haha nuts... maybe find a loaner car?? haha. We're both in the bay area so I was able to drop them off for him to work on. Good luck with yours though!
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:32 PM   #402
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@DarrenDriven and anyone else, help!

So I went to re-do my lights, as there was a defect in them (spot that I sanded down too much and took the clear/red paint off).

Lacquer thinner is NOT working to take the clear/paint combo off; it is on there good. Now it looks even worse after trying to remove the paint/clear off with the lacquer thinner.

Any advice? Can I just sand them down or something?
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:11 PM   #403
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Sand it.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:13 PM   #404
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Sand it.
Okay, I'm going to try that next; will report back.

Just a FYI for anyone else... don't bother with the lacquer thinner, it will make it worse.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:41 PM   #405
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So i just finished painting my tails red, and they turned out pretty good. However, i have that orange-peel texture from the clear that some other people have. Does anyone know if it is safe to use a DA buffer on spraymax 2k to smooth out the texture? i tried using it my first layer of metalcast red and it just took the paint off.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:40 PM   #406
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Okay, I'm going to try that next; will report back.

Just a FYI for anyone else... don't bother with the lacquer thinner, it will make it worse.
How? I used acetone(stronger than lacquer), it turned out to be good. It might look horrible after u clean them. However, as soon as you apply red coat. The horrible look is just gone.

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