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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 10-20-2014, 01:04 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by romin View Post
I asked my tear down mechanic this question and he said there was no evidence of starvation related wear in my engine. He believes a rod cap failed.
Did you get any codes when it went?
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:27 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triumphrider View Post
I'm running catless headers and a stage 2 oft tune now... I want 250- 270hp at the wheels. Unfortunately in Canada we have to have an emissions test every few years. So in like 4 yrs time I'll have to return to stock go do a 10 min emissions test then put all my performance parts back on.
False - allow me to correct this for you.

"Unfortunately, in Ontario, we have to have an emission tests very few years."

Silly Ontario, always thinking they are the whole country
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:29 PM   #73
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False - allow me to correct this for you.

"Unfortunately, in Ontario, we have to have an emission tests very few years."

Silly Ontario, always thinking they are the whole country
Lol very true.... My apologies... I am from New Brunswick originally where you had to do a BS safety every year.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:46 PM   #74
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Lol very true.... My apologies... I am from New Brunswick originally where you had to do a BS safety every year.
Every Year? mmmm sounds like they adopted some of their French connection policies...cray cray. But it is really good for the environment. With the rest of Canada ruining their coast I guess they can at least protect their air

However....I feel like their big ass fishing boats running diesel are not required to run giant sized catalytic converters..so maybe it is all for not.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:47 PM   #75
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Lol very true.... My apologies... I am from New Brunswick originally where you had to do a BS safety every year.
In Ontario, they no longer actually test exhaust gas for the emissions test. I believe just connect an OBD2 reader and check for codes.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:54 PM   #76
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I hope your correct... I'm running catless headers but the ecu is programmed not to throw a cel for the o2 sensor. So I'm hoping that will allow the car to pass ok due to the ecu not displaying any issues
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:54 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by normancw View Post
Did you get any codes when it went?
Yes, P000C - "A" Camshaft Position Slow Response: Bank 2

Before the engine failed I started to lose power - No torque when exiting turns.
The engine felt flat so the ECU was noticing issues and started to pull power.
Given I wasn't data logging I don't know if it was pulling timing or something else.
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Old 10-20-2014, 02:19 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by romin View Post
Yes, P000C - "A" Camshaft Position Slow Response: Bank 2

Before the engine failed I started to lose power - No torque when exiting turns.
The engine felt flat so the ECU was noticing issues and started to pull power.
Given I wasn't data logging I don't know if it was pulling timing or something else.
Maybe same issue as this?
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...53#post1869953

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cross View Post
There are a few cam related issues listed in the Recall Thread but this is the one I was mainly talking about however they all seem to be related.
One fix is a shim, @s2d4 mentioned a part change that I am not aware of and want to know about. If there is a fix I want to know.

This user had a turbo setup and had a similar issue.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65050

Recall Thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21868

Subaru TSB:
02-132-12 : DTCs Relating to the AVCS (Active Valve Control System)
11-130-13R : Difficulty Starting, Rough Idle, Cam Position, Misfire

Scion TSB:
S-SB-0033-13 : Hard Start, Rough Idle, Camshaft Sensor or Misfire DTCs

My CEL's:
P0300
P0301
P0021
P0014
P000B
P000C
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:00 AM   #79
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I have a bit of a random question with this. On these cars with FI, am I right in saying some of the problems have been caused by clutch slipping, thereby over-revving? If I'm right, would this be less or more of an issue with an auto trans? I know it is probably a noob question but would it be "safer" to run FI on an auto? any replies would be appreciated. I'm interested to see, as from what I know (very little) its the tune that seems to make or break the car when running SC or turbo.
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:11 PM   #80
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It's possibly to miss a shift and overrev on a manual. This has nothing to do with a turbo or supercharger, though. You can drive along at 100mph, slam the shifter into 2nd, and blow up your engine with any manual car. Slipping the clutch doesn't lead to overrevving. Shifting into the wrong gear does. Again, nothing to do with FI. It can happen as you drive home from the dealership, if you're an idiot. Transmission really has nothing to do with FI reliability. I don't know the upper limits of an auto on this platform, but it may be higher than that of the manual. That's won't affect the engine, though. In the end, you get the best tune you can, watch the vitals, and pray that nothing goes wrong. It does go wrong much of the time. Then you pay. If you don't want anything to go wrong, stay completely stock.
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Old 10-21-2014, 01:36 PM   #81
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My take on this as I have been thinking about this issue quite a bit lately as I push this engine into the 300-400 whp range + track driving.

Three things govern this:

1. luck of the draw (even stock FA20's blow on track)
2. tune quality (the "right tuner" can be subjective and as such this category can be subject to 1. luck of the draw)
3. what type of driving (street, autox, track, race): 400-500 whp may last a while on the street but may fail within 1-2 track days due to the enormous amount of stress put on the motor for long periods of time.

My tuner just told me he has been boosting at 19 psi 424 whp for 1 year on the street (and beating the hell out of it for testing purposes) and his compression test was perfect and has experienced no issues. He stated the engine is strong but can break easily with a bad tune. A lot of things can go wrong.

He also stated not to track a boxer engine without a baffled oil pan due to oil starvation issues that the subaru community has been dealing with for years... but that is another topic for discussion. LOL
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Old 10-21-2014, 03:49 PM   #82
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My take on this as I have been thinking about this issue quite a bit lately as I push this engine into the 300-400 whp range + track driving.

Three things govern this:

1. luck of the draw (even stock FA20's blow on track)
2. tune quality (the "right tuner" can be subjective and as such this category can be subject to 1. luck of the draw)
3. what type of driving (street, autox, track, race): 400-500 whp may last a while on the street but may fail within 1-2 track days due to the enormous amount of stress put on the motor for long periods of time.

My tuner just told me he has been boosting at 19 psi 424 whp for 1 year on the street (and beating the hell out of it for testing purposes) and his compression test was perfect and has experienced no issues. He stated the engine is strong but can break easily with a bad tune. A lot of things can go wrong.

He also stated not to track a boxer engine without a baffled oil pan due to oil starvation issues that the subaru community has been dealing with for years... but that is another topic for discussion. LOL
I've heard this as well. Unfortunately, the baffled oil pans available that I know of do not fit with the OEM exhaust manifold (with heat shield intact).

http://fullblownmotorsports.com/full...uminum-oil-pan
http://www.maperformance.com/map-hig...ubaru-brz.html
http://www.racerxfabrication.com/pro...m/oil_pan.html
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