Turbo/SC Kits Comparison Chart

[ft_sjo]

Threw this together. Power graphs based on dyno data posted on this forum. No crazy modifiers made for 'low' or 'high' reading dynos. The purpose it to show characteristics of the conversions/kits rather than precise numbers. If you don't understand this, don't post. Y axis set at 300 for the most relevant comparison.




Which one do you like? I think the FBM Stage 1 is the best all rounder. An extra 20-30 ft-lb below 4k would be nice.

[Mitch]

I would suggest setting y-max to include the big kits and just having a taller chart. We all know they go into the stratosphere on power, but you can show it without screwing up the comparison on raw power. If you wanted a tighter grouping, you could show hp/$ curves as a separate chart to show different but relevant data.

[Gen]

FB's stage 1 kit is more like $4600 btw. Their "premium" kit is 6k.

[stilletto]

Still looking forward to PTUNING's Kit.

[diss7]

I think it would also be benefical to include potential common motor swap dynos? I've come to realise that no FI kit on the boxer is going to deliver what I think will make a good daily. I think once a few more have done a 2GR-FSE conversion, and all the weight and ecu/electronic details are understood, this will become a common conversion.

Heres a rough dyno....

[dabocx]

Originally Posted by Hempo

Dont know where to post this and since i am new to the forum i am not allowed to post a new topic.. i have a MT BRZ which i would love to crank up the WHP to 300-350 area. There are LOADS of kits as anyone can see.. but which kit can give what i am looking for? I already have the full Agency power exhaust complete with header and everything. I am well aware that i have to upgrade fuel pump, injectors, clutch etc.. but what kit turbo or SC makes 350whp without problem?

On 93 pump gas thats not likely to happen without building a motor.

On e85 the JDL/FBM/Ptuning kits will get you there easily.

[2forme]

I feel like this chart should be torque, rather than horsepower.

[cmss2000]

A separate TQ chart would be nice.

[NomoreNA]

I feel like P&L and D3 should be added. Looking forward to the Ptuning kit on corn

[Zardoman]

i want to see gas consumption on each of these systems, i don't want to think i'm driving my 6series again.

[NorCalRider]

Originally Posted by Zardoman

i want to see gas consumption on each of these systems, i don't want to think i'm driving my 6series again.

I find it hilarious when people ask about fuel mileage on a turbo/sc kit. The mileage is dictated by you right foot. If you stay out of boost it will be as good as stock and in some cases better then stock. The minute you go in to boost you will be using more fuel. Forced induction forces more air into your engine and requires more fuel to complete the burn process to create more power. Mileage is all up to you as a driver.

[Shankenstein]

Originally Posted by NorCalRider

I find it hilarious when people ask about fuel mileage on a turbo/sc kit. The mileage is dictated by you right foot. If you stay out of boost it will be as good as stock and in some cases better then stock. The minute you go in to boost you will be using more fuel. Forced induction forces more air into your engine and requires more fuel to complete the burn process to create more power. Mileage is all up to you as a driver.

Continuing the off-topic discussion. Consider the average 86 buyer. They want power (jdm powah if possible), but don't want to get 20 mpg during highway cruising.

If the AFR is proper (on and off WOT), and the system uses DI effectively (major assumptions)... a "big turbo" kit won't be capable of running into boost if you drive like a grandma (< 3000-3500 rpm). Generally, you'll see a slight improvement in fuel economy. I'd guess this is because the slight spin of the turbo relieves pumping losses and air temperatures are higher.

When you hit the rev range (really it's an exhaust flow rate) that boost is available, you effectively turn on an extra row of cylinders. You don't necessarily have to use the available torque, but it's there.

A "small turbo" kit is the same... but you add on less cylinders at lower engine speed (exhaust flow rate). If you're cruising down the highway, it's pretty likely that you're atleast at half of your max boost pressure. This means you've got more available torque and the potential for worse fuel economy.

Fuel economy is really about air flow and AFR. If you keep RPMs and LOAD low, air flow is low. If you're tune is in an efficient zone (and closed-loop mode is operational), AFR will stay high.

Can any of the gurus classify these kits as "big" or "small" for us? FBMv2 is fairly big, AVO is fairly small, right?

[ft_sjo]

Thanks for the comments everyone. This was just a rough idea that I may look to develop. I'm trying to find an easy way to add new results into a system and have the ability to easily click a few buttons to do a comparison, for example. I don't really have the time to do any development on this and doing it in excel/googledocs isn't really going to work.

If anyone knows an off-the-shelf system which can dynamically produce graphs and offer a comparison feature (effectively enabling/disabling series data on the fly) then let me know.

I know a chap was creating a dyno database. I'll try to find the URL, not sure if that did graphs either or just stored the images from the dyno tests.

[Hawaiian]

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

Continuing the off-topic discussion. Consider the average 86 buyer. They want power (jdm powah if possible), but don't want to get 20 mpg during highway cruising.

If the AFR is proper (on and off WOT), and the system uses DI effectively (major assumptions)... a "big turbo" kit won't be capable of running into boost if you drive like a grandma (< 3000-3500 rpm). Generally, you'll see a slight improvement in fuel economy. I'd guess this is because the slight spin of the turbo relieves pumping losses and air temperatures are higher.

When you hit the rev range (really it's an exhaust flow rate) that boost is available, you effectively turn on an extra row of cylinders. You don't necessarily have to use the available torque, but it's there.

A "small turbo" kit is the same... but you add on less cylinders at lower engine speed (exhaust flow rate). If you're cruising down the highway, it's pretty likely that you're atleast at half of your max boost pressure. This means you've got more available torque and the potential for worse fuel economy.

Fuel economy is really about air flow and AFR. If you keep RPMs and LOAD low, air flow is low. If you're tune is in an efficient zone (and closed-loop mode is operational), AFR will stay high.

Can any of the gurus classify these kits as "big" or "small" for us? FBMv2 is fairly big, AVO is fairly small, right?

Great post.