DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders - Fluid Bleed/Flush

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by F1point4

Brake Flush
2) Player 2 will be in the car actuating the brakes. Pump the brakes three times, on the third time hold. Tell Player 1 to close. Like the method above, do not bottom out the brake pedal or you'll have a bad day.

What's the issue with bottoming out the brake pedal with standard bleeders and not speed bleeders? If you're not letting off the pedal before the bleeder is closed youre not bringing any air into the system?

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

What's the issue with bottoming out the brake pedal with standard bleeders and not speed bleeders? If you're not letting off the pedal before the bleeder is closed youre not bringing any air into the system?

NOt 100% sure with this car, but traditionally if you bottom out the brake pedal, you'll ruin the seals in the brake master cylinder. Bad news all around

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by F1point4

NOt 100% sure with this car, but traditionally if you bottom out the brake pedal, you'll ruin the seals in the brake master cylinder. Bad news all around

from my research, it looks like this causes the MC piston to travel past where it normally operates, causing it to run along areas in the cylinder that have corrosion and rougher edges, which damages the seals on the piston. with a newer car with low mileage, especially track cars that are constantly flushing brake fluid, hopefully our MC's don't have much if any build up or corrosion.

[amram]

Hey Decay, any update on this? Did you try the SS ones?

Am ordering the SS ones and was wondering if it makes sense to buy a inch-lb torque wrench as well to get the torque right (71 in-lb) or just hand tighten them. Your experience concerns me....

thanks.

Originally Posted by Decay107

Not sure if SS is better for corrosion, but I purchased the standard SB1010 and had nothing but trouble. Going with the spec 71 in-lbf, 1/3 of the speedbleeders actually sealed (given my results I did not bother with the 4th at all). Basically they felt like they were sealed and there were no visible leaks, but if I would get in the car and really stand on the brakes a few times they would leak enough to pop off the included rubber cap and slightly wet the caliper. I increased the torque to 100 in-lbf (too scared to go higher) which still did not fix the issue. The stock bleeders are back on my car now.

I'll be doing some research into whether I want to double down and try the SS ones.

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by amram

Hey Decay, any update on this? Did you try the SS ones?

Am ordering the SS ones and was wondering if it makes sense to buy a inch-lb torque wrench as well to get the torque right (71 in-lb) or just hand tighten them. Your experience concerns me....

thanks.

Put in the SS ones and everything works great, I've also helped 2 other people install them without any issues, guess there are just minute differences between the SS and brass.

I used a cheap torque wrench to do mine, but know a lot of people who successfully do it without one. Just DO NOT overtighten, you'll break off the bleeder valve in the caliper.

[amram]

Originally Posted by Decay107

Put in the SS ones and everything works great, I've also helped 2 other people install them without any issues, guess there are just minute differences between the SS and brass.

I used a cheap torque wrench to do mine, but know a lot of people who successfully do it without one. Just DO NOT overtighten, you'll break off the bleeder valve in the caliper.

Great to hear, thanks for the update!

I just ordered the SS ones. Am new to working on cars (and scared of breaking stuff LOL) so probably gonna be safe and get a in-lb torque wrench.... found a decent looking one for $36 on [ame="http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1398695725&sr= 1-2&keywords=torque+wrench#productDetails"]amazon[/ame]

[Decay107]

Better than the one I used! I have a $10 Harbor Freight special.

[Ryaquinn]

Can someone help. I did this diy for the lines, front rotors, and front/rear pads. Now when I go over 15mph the stability control and abs light come on in the dash. Planning on taking it to the dealership if no one has had it happen to them. Thanks

[jvincent]

When the car is up on stands, do the wheels freely rotate? If you had a stuck caliper that might explain it.

Either that or you messed up the wheels speed sensors.

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[Ryaquinn]

Wheels rotated freely. Wheel speed sensor sounds most likely.


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[poptopclk]

I just bought ONE and put it on each caliper as I bled it. Then replaced it with the OEM and went on to the next one & so on....


I just don't trust that part for track use, BUT IT IS GREAT TO USE & REMOVE one each wheel as you go around the car.

It really makes flushing system a one man job...

[TheLaughingMan]

Thank you for this wonderful write up!! I used it this weekend when doing basically the exact same thing you did.

I really wish I had paid more attention

To reiterate some advice already given in this thread: DO NOT SKIMP ON THE FLARE NUT WRENCH

You WILL round/strip the flare nut using a typical open-end combination wrench. I made this mistake thinking I could get away with it (car only has 5k miles, couldn't possibly be that stuck already) and I was excited to get the lines in. I ended up having to buy a pair of vice grips to get it loose (and bought the flare nut wrenches at the same time). Once I had the flare nut wrenches, I made easy work of the other three wheels.

I learned my lesson though (yet again) that the right tools for the job make all the difference in the world.

[FR-S Matt]

Did this for pads, lines, and a fluid flush.

I got a Motive Power bleeder in place of the second person. I've never done brakes in my life and this made it 100 times easier following this. Thanks for helping me save money with this DIY!

[Fizz]

+1 for the Motive Power Bleeder. Well worth the money.