DIY: Custom Brake ducting mod w/ fog light delete, cheaper alternative(~$80 vs $650)

[glamcem]

I was trying to find some reasonable brake ducting kit that utilizes the fog light bezels since I didn't want to spend $650 for the APR brake ducting kit. Then I figured there is no other alternative so I decided to make my own. My total cost was about $80 bucks and it seems to be working just fine FYI, the aftermarket brake ducting options seem to be using the same quality ducting hose so you basically pay for the backing plates and some clamps/zip ties

I am sure there are many creative guys here and someone can come up with a lot easier method . This should typically take about 3-4 hours but I have to say I am very slow so YMMV ..with that said, please read carefully

WARNING: This mod requires you to remove the bumper, brake pads, calipers and rotors so please see below links and make sure you are comfortable with performing these and as always DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
It also involves the washer bottle removal on the driver side in order to utilize the fog light inserts and requires you to modify the OEM brake backing plates,, Did I mention the removal of the fog lights . Since I have an intercooler I wasn't able to use an air inlets but if you're NA, you may be able to route the ducting and use these air inlets and keep your fog lights and washer bottle in their places
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3624

Tools and Parts required :

• 2-1/2" Silicone Ducting which can be purchased from here
• http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Temp_Ducting2
  
• Some zip ties ( preferably the longer ones that you can find from Harbor Freight or some auto parts store)
  
  
• Liquid nails http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Na...-903/100176209
  
• mesh gutter guard from Home Depot or Lowes (about $3)
  
• 3" rubber coupling with shield from Home Depot or Lowes (about $3-4) that looks something like this
  
• Some cutter, hammer, electril drill/ bits and basic tools
  
• Gorilla tape (optional but recommended) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-G...0035/100550069
  

Props to @blackfireball5 for providing information about the mesh screen and how I can fix it on the fog light bezels. If you have an FRS I would highly recommend you to follow his directions since the fog light bezels might be slightly different
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63231

To remove your bumper you may use the following link as a reference or the video below:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8788

[ame="http://youtu.be/7bUV3nVVtds"]http://youtu.be/7bUV3nVVtds[/ame]


Bumper and fog lights removed








since I have the foglights (BRZ Limited) I removed after removing the bumper and safely put aside the fog light cable (you may use gorilla tape to fix it inside the bumper) then I cut the mesh gutter with a scissor and placed it into the fog light bezel and applied some liquid nails..
** make sure you cut the mesh a bit bigger than the opening so it will fit tightly









Pay attention to these tabs you will need to put the zip ties through these tabs and the holes on the side and connect the couplers from their shields so those will stay in place



you can test fit your ducting hose but don't attach your hose yet





After removing the bumper I drained the washer bottle (this step is also necessary with Kraftwerks kit install and the smaller washer bottle that comes with the KW kit still wouldn't work)



after draining the washer bottle you can remove the whole thing (washer bottle) and put back your bumper so behind the inner tire wells you can see the grills (passenger side in the picture)



and the way it looks from the front





if you see some liquid nail residue you can either clean it or simply ignore it since they will be completely dirty and look black after a while


you can now remove your front calipers, brakes and rotors
you may refer to below instructions

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45713



after removing the calipers and rotors you may put the calipers on the control arm and remove the brake backing plates(those should be 3x 12 mm bolts)

I didn't have electric saw and the Dremel tool wasn't strong enough so I simply used the electric drill and put some holes in the backing plate(this is the left/driver side backing plate) and connected the dots to make a hole



now you can cut the 11ft ducting hose in half and attach one half of the backing plate with 5-6 zip ties if you have metal zip ties those might be even better UPDATE: I have used Metal zip ties and left the plastic ones to see if they get melted after some hard track use and they all held up just fine but it wouldn't hurt to use the metal ones (driver side shown in the picture) since I didn't test the longevity of the regular zip ties I will check them after a few event and will probably change them with metal ones


you can now put the rotors, calipers and pads in place so we will have more room to route the ducting hose

here is the correct routing of the ducting hose and more zip ties of course







then you will cut the other end of the hose about 7.5" long so the remainder of the hose will make some tension and push it forward to the bumper and the hose will stay in place (you will do the same thing for the passenger side too)



you can now cut the inner fender well and make sure you cut it close to the frame and control arm side as much as possible .. there is a metal hook (not pictured) right behind the hose you will use that to zip tie the hose before you put it through the fender well








IMPORTANT: Make sure you test fit the ducting hose to see if the tires make contact with them at full lock.. I would definitely suggest you to to put the wheels when the car is on the jack stands so it would save you some time and effort


Gorilla tape comes in handy to close the gaps





now you can follow the same steps for the passenger side, there you have it a cheap alternative to those expensive brake duct kits ..enjoy it

[TM]

Great detailed write up!

[blackfireball5]

Wow, seriously nice job dude! Very detailed! And thanks for the shoutout!

[Synack]

Good job man for exploring the option, but there seriously has to be a better way to DIY that doesn't look so..... DIY'ish.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Synack

Good job man for exploring the option, but there seriously has to be a better way to DIY that doesn't look so..... DIY'ish.

As I said earlier in my post, I bet someone can find a better/more efficient way to do this but FYI both APR and Touge Factory kits should require you to cut some holes and routing ( removal of the brakes, rotors and pads as well) ..so those are the absolute steps, I think the only additional step with my custom method is the modification to the OEM backing plate and washer/fog lights removal since using air inlets is not an option who's running intercooler...

[Synack]

Originally Posted by glamcem

As I said earlier in my post, I bet someone can find a better/more efficient way to do this but FYI both APR and Touge Factory kits should require you to cut some holes and routing ( removal of the brakes, rotors and pads as well) ..so those are the absolute steps, I think the only additional step with my custom method is the modification to the OEM spindle and washer/fog lights removal since using air inlets is not an option who's running intercooler...

I'm sure you or someone will find a more intuitive way eventually.

[phastafrican]

Great write up

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Synack

I'm sure you or someone will find a more intuitive way eventually.

I would love to see that too

[glamcem]

little update about my custom brake cooling duct;
this past weekend I had a chance to test my custom brake ducting (updated routing) and even I ran out of the track couple times and it still held up just fine
as well as my new FT86 front splitter..so for those who are not sure about the sturdiness of the ducting and the splitter, this might be a good news

I have to mention that I added metal zip ties and intentionally left the plastic ones to see if they melt after some hard track use and they both held up just fine,YMMV

with that said I still had some fading especially when coming close to the T3 but soon after that brakes recover I think it's due to brake cooling, I will also need to address the rubbing issues I will most likely raise the car a little bit..
here is some footage from the last event
some track footage with the splitter and brake ducting

[ame="http://youtu.be/2JDtUJGLag0"]http://youtu.be/2JDtUJGLag0[/ame]

[ML]

is that the cheapest option for the ducting??

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by ML

is that the cheapest option for the ducting??

I am sorry somehow I missed this post, yes it's the absolute cheapest option and after a few track days and about 1500 miles it is still staying strong

[Floggin Tires]

Just for terminology's sake.
What you're calling the spindle is actually the "Brake/Dust Cover" or a "Backing Plate"

Not being a **** here.

Mad Paint skillz, I know.



Thanks for sharing the progress.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Floggin Tires

Just for terminology's sake.
What you're calling the spindle is actually the "Brake/Dust Cover" or a "Backing Plate"

Not being a **** here.

Mad Paint skillz, I know.
Attachment 84781


Thanks for sharing the progress.

Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for clarifying and yes I was referring to the brake dust cover/ backing plates.. I updated the wording accordingly

[BRZ RN]

with the fog light cable., do you cap it off or you can just simply disconnect it? i just thought i cannot leave the disconnected end open like that.