Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[dtek]

Follow up: I checked inside the controller and the 30A fuse looks fine, and no obvious burnt components or damage.
I checked the dump batts, separately both are showing 13.1v on my multimeter, and when linked 26.2v shows when measured at the terminals and at the end of the cable where it joins to the controller. With them also being new Im thinking they're not the issue.
Found 1 bullet connector in the 3 wires going to the brushless motor which had seized with some dark coating build up so I've cleaned that and plugged it back together but pretty sure it's not the problem.

Bypassed the procede (ie, used the throttle switch from original set up) and it made no difference. I think it's not procede related.

When I arm the Phantom there's a series of beeps which might be indicating the problem. When I do the same with one of the bullet connectors unplugged it only beeps once. I'll edit this post with 2 videos to show what I mean.
Anyone able to decipher what 4 quick, 1 slow, pause, then 5 slow beeps means?
How many beeps is it supposed to make when all is perfectly functioning?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by dtek

Follow up: I checked inside the controller and the 30A fuse looks fine, and no obvious burnt components or damage.
I checked the dump batts, separately both are showing 13.1v on my multimeter, and when linked 26.2v shows when measured at the terminals and at the end of the cable where it joins to the controller. With them also being new Im thinking they're not the issue.
Found 1 bullet connector in the 3 wires going to the brushless motor which had seized with some dark coating build up so I've cleaned that and plugged it back together but pretty sure it's not the problem.

Bypassed the procede (ie, used the throttle switch from original set up) and it made no difference. I think it's not procede related.

When I arm the Phantom there's a series of beeps which might be indicating the problem. When I do the same with one of the bullet connectors unplugged it only beeps once. I'll edit this post with 2 videos to show what I mean.
Anyone able to decipher what 4 quick, 1 slow, pause, then 5 slow beeps means?
How many beeps is it supposed to make when all is perfectly functioning?

I'm fairly certain one of my videos may have the boot sequence but you should have some sort of beeps for it to set abaseline at startup.


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[dtek]

Video with the series of beeps

Video with deliberately unplugged wire to the brushless motor as a test - only one quick beep

[Target70]

Originally Posted by dtek

Video with the series of beeps

Video with deliberately unplugged wire to the brushless motor as a test - only one quick beep

That sounds just like mine. First that melody then beep, pause then 5 more beeps. It sounds like it is booting up fine

If you can't figure out anything, I would still suggest doing a bench test like this:

If you are sure it is something with the phantom itself, I would try to spin the compressor by hand to make sure it isn't binding first. It gets pretty tough from there. Someone posted pictures before that I saved but they don't have any cable or connector orientation, so I don't know what I am looking at. I haven't opened the control box myself, and with no schematic I can't tell you exactly where to check, but my next step would be to check if the main relay is closing when you push the switch. Relays have moving parts and sticking/corroded contacts so IMO are the most likely to go bad out of nowhere as you said it was working fine then just stopped.




It's some serious current running to/from the dump packs, so they have to be routed through thick cables and a relay that is triggered by the foot switch (somehow). It could be a direct connection or through an integrated circuit. In the pictures I have, there is a relay in the top left (circled in red). It also looks like two thick black wires with spade terminals going over it, "may" run to power the motor. If you have a Voltmeter, measure between the two large connectors on the relay. (you could also try the two black cables) If you are on the correct spot it should measure the ~28Vdc. Have someone trigger the switch. And If the relay is working, the voltage should drop. If it doesn't or barely goes down, you can measure across the small terminals to see if the relay is getting the trigger signal, and go from there.

From the generic brushless motor schematic I found. The three phase wires going to the motor should run into a bank of 6 transistors, labeled pwm (pulse width modulator). The main input power for those pwms "should" be from thick wires coming from a relay. (possibly those two black wires mentioned before).



This is all just guess work on my part, and hopefully you don't have to rip it apart. (and hopefully I'm not making a fool out of myself)

[dtek]

Thanks for all that info, here's the inside of my controller as a comparison point.
The added vacuum sensor for drag reduction on mine makes me assume the prior image is from a v1.0 as mine is a v1.5.



https://imgur.com/u4d5tHw

[ROFL it's Waffle]

I'll try not to pretend like I know what any of this is (I'm mechanical, not electrical). Those solder connections look pretty janky, like a high probability for arcing under load.

[Carsnguitars]

All this sounds like the same issues mine has. My controller box looks like the one @Target70 posted. That small circuit board at the top of the pic that has the three little leds on it should slide out of there. On it is a test switch, with each push of the switch cycling through full speed, half speed, and back to off. With the system fully assembled and armed mine will run, but never with the foot switch. And yet, continuity and resistance checks on the footswitch harness check out. I acquired a proceed controller hoping that may get me past the footswitch control, but I don't have a wiring harness for it and have not been able to test that theory. And from what @dtek is saying, that's not the answer either. The whole thing has been in a box for a while now hoping to find someone that might understand what the problem is. To my thinking this stuff is not unlike a smaller radio control system. Someone should be able to suss it out, but I haven't found them yet.

[BlOody_BoOger]

Is that black wire loose? Did you cut that on purpose?

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[dtek]

I've noticed today that when I start the car after it's been parked multiple hours I can usually get 1-2 normal boost events before the same issue reappears and from that point on it's non functional.

Maybe this is some sort of heat related issue?
I recall reading here that on the track the controller can go into some sort of self protection mode from overheating, is it anything like my symptoms?

[Target70]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Is that black wire loose? Did you cut that on purpose?

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That picture looks like the one I posted that I got from someone trying to troubleshoot their problem. If I remember correctly that black wire was said to go to the cooling fan, and the solder joint just broke when they were inspecting it.

[WNDSRFR]

It still amazes me how there are over 2 and a half million views for a product that is no longer available.

WTF?

I just don't understand.

[churchx]

Unfortunately in this particular case demand wasn't able to drive offer, due personal choices of monopolistic vendor of later . Yet potential users/customers still hasn't lost hope and keep visiting thread occasionally hoping to see making restarted, or reverse engineered/alternatively developed similar product by someone else.
Big view count simply as indicator of how well ESC did fit needs of many, available or not, thus keeping hopes (&counts/views) up.

[Aztec]

Originally Posted by dtek

I've noticed today that when I start the car after it's been parked multiple hours I can usually get 1-2 normal boost events before the same issue reappears and from that point on it's non functional.

Maybe this is some sort of heat related issue?
I recall reading here that on the track the controller can go into some sort of self protection mode from overheating, is it anything like my symptoms?

Hey man,

I've probably dealt with that high voltage reading the most at least publicly on this forum. I can say with fairly high certainty that it is related to your battery array.
SPECIFICALLY the metal connector between the positive on the far battery and the negative on the middle battery.
Take your array apart and sand/grind the shit out of the metal connector, make it NICE and clean along with any new bolts etc to verify there's no corrosion.

What's happening is there IS a connection, but it's shitty. Hence it works a couple times and stops. (so frustrating to have a system in place and have it work so intermittently)

If anyone is interested I have a working system that i'm willing to part with for cheap along with a procede controller. Willing to sell it all for ~$1000 obo

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Aztec

Hey man,

I've probably dealt with that high voltage reading the most at least publicly on this forum. I can say with fairly high certainty that it is related to your battery array.
SPECIFICALLY the metal connector between the positive on the far battery and the negative on the middle battery.
Take your array apart and sand/grind the shit out of the metal connector, make it NICE and clean along with any new bolts etc to verify there's no corrosion.

What's happening is there IS a connection, but it's shitty. Hence it works a couple times and stops. (so frustrating to have a system in place and have it work so intermittently)

If anyone is interested I have a working system that i'm willing to part with for cheap along with a procede controller. Willing to sell it all for ~$1000 obo

To piggyback off this. My WMI failsafe had started working somewhat intermittently and progressively getting worse. Basically Kept triggering a false fail-safe. Anyways the issue turned out to be the spot that i was grounding to had started to kind of corrode and rust a little. Took a long time to trouble shoot this because it really didn’t even look bad but i sanded it clean and reground and throughly covered the ground wire/ground point that was exposed with electrical tape to prevent water rust/corrosion. Long story short its been back to working flawlessly for over 2 months with zero triggers. Before it would trigger 5 times a day. So make sure all grounds, connections, conductive points etc.. that are exposed to the elements are not losing connection from rust and corrosion being in the engine bay.