Does it look like my axle nut went bad? Clicking noise on acceleration.

[hpde_addict]

On initial acceleration and clutch in, I hear a few quick clicks from my driver side rear, driver wheel area. The greater the change in wheel torque, the more apparent it is. Initial guess is that the CV joint went bad, but from what I've read on the forum it's mainly lowered twins on sticky rubber. Only did 4 track events and 6 autocross, a few spin outs on skid pad. Took a picture of my rear axle nuts: link. Rear, driver side swaybar end link was a bit below torque spec as well. Is the dimple in the axle nut supposed to be dead on centered? It looks off to me.

[CSG Mike]

That is your axle going bad.

Plenty of axles have gone out on stock and near-stock cars as a result of driving hard. Upgrade to DSS axles when they go out (or pre-emptively, as these will not fail under your useage). Let us know when you want them.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by hpde_addict

On initial acceleration and clutch in, I hear a few quick clicks from my driver side rear, driver wheel area. The greater the change in wheel torque, the more apparent it is. Initial guess is that the CV joint went bad, but from what I've read on the forum it's mainly lowered twins on sticky rubber. Only did 4 track events and 6 autocross, a few spin outs on skid pad. Took a picture of my rear axle nuts: link. Is the dimple in the axle nut supposed to be dead on centered? It looks off to me.

The picture of the crimped dimple is ok. It doesn't have to be on center.

Your axle nut may just be loose. From the factory many of these were not torqued down enough. I had the same issue a long while back (a few other board members had the same).

The problem was resolved when I had my rear hub taken apart to install extended studs. After the mechanic put the hub back together (and torqued the rear axle to spec), the clicking went away and has not returned. That was roughly 10 months ago. My axles are fine.

Here's another person with the same fix. Try it and see if it works.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...94&postcount=6

More discussion
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...90#post2300590

[hpde_addict]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

That is your axle going bad.

Plenty of axles have gone out on stock and near-stock cars as a result of driving hard. Upgrade to DSS axles when they go out (or pre-emptively, as these will not fail under your useage). Let us know when you want them.

Would doing (1) be sane?

1) Replace axle nut and verify no more noise under hard acceleration. Take axle nut and OEM driveshaft with me to Thunderhill (this Sat & Sun) just in case. Return OEM driveshaft to Subaru.

2) Replace driveshaft tomorrow with OEM driveshaft ($470).

[CSG Mike]

Clicking is an early symptom. You still have some time left on that axle. Retorque and re-stake your axle nut if you're unsure.

[DAEMANO]

@hpde_addict

Here's another few threads where the sound and axle nut are discussed.

The sound (to confirm if it's the same as I and others experienced)
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43936

The axle nut as resolution (from a few more)
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66688

[Aztec]

I've had this issue on both sides of my car. Replacing both axles nuts resolved any sort of clicking when drive train was engaged or disengaged

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[tracerit]

Is this the part that I need? http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_201...902170049.html


Diagram here:
http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-281-01.html

[hpde_addict]

Originally Posted by tracerit

Is this the part that I need? http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_201...902170049.html


Diagram here:
http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_201...10-281-01.html

Yup, 902170049. You may also want to take a look at this thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70700. I haven't tried it yet, but it fixed the issue for that member. I've replaced both axle nuts twice and each time the fix only lasted for one autocross.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Subaru axle nuts are notoriously soft. The clicking is 100% covered under the powertrain warranty. I had a nut torqued to 145 ftlbs and it clicked. Replaced it with a new nut to spec 141 ftlbs and the noise hasn't returned. This noise is a common problem for Subies. Everyone always jumps to the axle, when more often than not, it is just a bad nut.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpjrnQQC8ac"]BRZ Axle Nut click - YouTube[/ame]

[elyugi1]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Subaru axle nuts are notoriously soft. The clicking is 100% covered under the powertrain warranty. I had a nut torqued to 145 ftlbs and it clicked. Replaced it with a new nut to spec 141 ftlbs and the noise hasn't returned. This noise is a common problem for Subies. Everyone always jumps to the axle, when more often than not, it is just a bad nut.

i call the dealer to make a appoinment they said they go to inspected but if something from outside cause theproblem imma have to pay the fee of 125. im not lower or anything everything is stock. only done muffler delete thats it...any advise before i head to the dealer?

[justatroll]

Originally Posted by hpde_addict

Would doing (1) be sane?

2) Replace driveshaft tomorrow with OEM driveshaft ($470).

I used the "replace both driveshafts with OEM driveshafts ($0 under warranty)"


Click is coming back anyway.
I will just order some new nuts and reinstall myself.

[rice_classic]

Replacing parts (oh so many parts) on the race car I've learned a valuable lesson:

Any part that requires lubrication will have its end-of-life determined by the quality and the presence of said lubrication - Ceteris paribus.

So on the race car when I buy new bearings and axles the first thing I do is open them, remove the low-quality grease and replace it with the good stuff. Other things fail before my bearings and axles and I can guarantee you that CV grease used from the factory isn't track-duty grease.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by elyugi1

i call the dealer to make a appoinment they said they go to inspected but if something from outside cause theproblem imma have to pay the fee of 125. im not lower or anything everything is stock. only done muffler delete thats it...any advise before i head to the dealer?

The dealer cannot charge you a fee for inspecting. The axle nut is $12. It is literally 10 minutes to change it. Tell them that Subaru pays them for warranty work, not you. If they try to tell you something else caused it, call Subaru corporate 1-800-SUBARU3 (1-800-782-2783)

I don't know why dealerships are such scumbags about warranty work. They would rather fight with you and bully their customers into paying, than do the extra paperwork to get paid from Subaru. It's not like they're doing it for free. Subaru pays the dealers for warranty work. Stop letting these dealerships take advantage of you. Stop rewarding bad behavior.

"I am not leaving until you fix my car, and I am not paying you a dime. I paid you when I bought this car. I paid for a warranty; now do your job before I make a scene."