03-15-2014, 07:39 PM | #85 |
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I second the better airflow suggestion. I'm about to move to a very hot climate and am starting to look at vented hoods or opening up the fender trim to vent heat.
Also, some sort of heat sink between the coil and the header. Preferably with air moving over it. Or just a heat shield between them. |
03-17-2014, 11:28 AM | #86 | |
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This would be a great opportunity for a parts manufacturer for this platform to step in and fab up a solution for testing and a possible new product release. Everyone that tracks their 86 could potentially benefit from something like this if it makes the coils last longer, which it very well should. @Wonderbar , @GrimmSpeed , @Touge Factory , @CounterSpace Garage , @PERRIN |
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03-17-2014, 11:58 AM | #87 | ||
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One potential problem is that while the various manufacturers' headers tend to follow the same general path, I can see there being enough variation that a one-size-fits-all solution may not be practical. Especially between EL and UEL headers. My other problem is that that just reflects the heat, which still has to go somewhere or something else will cook. I'd prefer to dissipate the heat if possible. When I get to vegas I am definitely going to drop in a koyo radiator, forester oil cooler, and open up the fender trim to vent heat. These cars run hot enough as it is. Edit: info on the oil cooler: clicky I spoke with CARNZ about the possibility of using the coolant lines from the throttle body instead of running coolant from the block, especially since I was going to disconnect those anyways, as you did here; this was his response. Quote:
Last edited by gramicci101; 03-17-2014 at 12:23 PM. |
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03-17-2014, 12:17 PM | #88 | |
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Brace yourselves: shitty mspaint inbound or Something like the above. Could have a hole drilled where the coil bolts in so you install the shield with the same bolts. |
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03-17-2014, 12:25 PM | #89 |
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I hadn't looked at it like that. I'd leave the top open so any heat could escape. Is there a way to get airflow in there?
I edited my previous post to include info about the forester oil cooler, as well. |
03-17-2014, 04:12 PM | #90 |
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Sure, there's a way, I'm running ducting to my brakes right past that area, but I need all that air for my rotors...
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03-17-2014, 10:02 PM | #91 | |
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Seriously though, you could run cool air over the coils on both sides. I can't see how that would be a bad thing. |
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03-17-2014, 10:53 PM | #92 |
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How does APR recommend running the driver's side duct? Through the same place the tf duct goes?
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03-21-2014, 09:49 AM | #93 |
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New revised part # OEM coil arrived. I thought about getting some gold heat tape and putting some on the top part of the coil that is exposed but I don't have any and it would take a few days to order and ship, and I wanted to fix the P0351 as soon as possible. Only one 10mm bolt holding it in. I just replaced it myself rather easily in about 20 minutes. Removed the three 10mm bolts holding in the ECU on the black fuel rail cover carefully after stuffing some shop towels below to catch any dropped bolts. Zip tied the box out of the way on the strut brace so it doesn't slide into anything. Then I grabbed the coil and pulled it straight out and then up to get the whole thing out. Pressed the connector down and pulled it off and the new one went back in just as easily. Just need patience and dexterity and it's pretty painless. The drivers side coils wouldn't be as easy, though, since there's more stuff in the way. I put everything back the way it was and secured all the bolts before starting it again. Then I went for a drive and got everything nice and hot before doing a couple WOT pulls to redline and all is well. No more CEL. |
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03-21-2014, 10:21 AM | #94 |
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Here's a quick sketchup of a simple heat shield. The bolts holding the coils in are sunk into the engine, so I used the bolt just forward and below the front coil and two of the bolts above the coils. I couldn't see the back or bottom edges to locate mounting points, but the heat shield should attach there as well to prevent rattling. I don't have the capabilities right now to make this, but I'm sure someone like @Wonderbar or @GrimmSpeed could whip this up pretty quickly. The top and back are open to allow heat to escape. Gold foil on the outer surface to reflect heat away from the coils.
First Edit And you actually don't need the holes through the shield for the coil mounting bolts. I put those in when I was still considering that option for mounting the shield. Second Edit Here's an additional tweak. I flared out the front edge to draw air from the engine bay over the coils, rather than have them sit with no air flow. This way, if the heat from the exhaust soaks through the heat shield during hard use, it can be flushed out with (hopefully) cooler air from the engine bay. Third Edit If you wanted to get really frisky with it, you could rivet a heat sink to the inner surface. Using the airflow from the flared section on the leading edge, this would help to dissipate any heat that soaked through the reflective outer surface before it reached the coil. I think that's about it from me for the moment. I always get caught up in incremental changes and improvements when I use sketchup. Last edited by gramicci101; 03-21-2014 at 11:02 AM. |
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03-21-2014, 11:12 AM | #95 | |
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03-21-2014, 11:17 AM | #96 |
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I love sketchup. I use it mostly from home audio, but it's a great and fun tool. All my stuff, including audio, can be found at http://rsvr79.imgur.com/.
I PM'd GrimmSpeed to see if they'd be interested. I know they have a lot on their plate right now though. |
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03-21-2014, 11:33 AM | #98 |
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I might could punch it out. Let me look into it.
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