ALL ARIZONA FR-S/BRZ OWNERS HOME PAGE

[jeffsides]

I'm at work 2-9 tomorrow. It's closer to you than where I live. If you want to come by my work it's cool. I'm at Big Two Toyota. Just ask for Jeff Sides in the Finance Dept. Or we could meet up sometime.


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[PolishFrs13]

cool I'll take a drive out there tomorrow. I'll bring my spare & 45$


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[B.Rice85]

Originally Posted by jeffsides

Attachment 84246Last call. I have keys for
Sohail Sial
Aaron-Michael Rodriguez
Andrew Lischynski
Raymond Chau
Kevin Huynh
Am I missing anyone??? I want to get these shipped in the next couple days! Let me know by email only please. Arizona86club@ yahoo.com.


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Damn! Knew I forgot to do something before I left town

[AZFA20]

Originally Posted by Cross

Do you want me to get a log, I am getting all my ducks in a row on this end for one reason, if the dealer will fix it (Which I do not expect) cool but I have screen shots of the error codes I found which I have not cleared and other pictures. I have had my brother (Also an ASE Master Tech) come out and give me his opinion which we both agree the car did not suck up water it's taking coolant from the radiator.
If the cams locked I would expect bent valves and bad headgasket(s) to be the most likely issue here esp. with a TSB on this.

While it's hard to get the car to run I am willing to fire it to try for another confirmation.

My reasoning behind all of this is that if they are going to void my warranty, which I expect, I should get the 1500 I gave them back for the extended warranty that I have not even gotten into the mileage or time frame to use. That's all I would want at this point if they say no which again I kinda expect because I boosted it. Yes it may not have been the boost but you do pay to play.

If they give me the 1500 back even if it's on the amount left on my loan then I am completely fine with that and I will just rebuild the motor myself. I already found another stock motor to use while I do it (2800 plus shipping, it has 16k miles) then I can figure out where I can get pistons and rod's to make a motor thats the same compression ratio as stock but forged along with head studs and go use that as my new motor that I know I will not have to worry about at my power levels.
(Although I apparently need to look into what the fix is for the cam issue I had so it doesn't happen again)

If you do not feel comfortable firing it up I understand. If you can though log ALL VVT PIDs. It doesn't need to run long but it will need to make it past the warm up cycle however, what I am looking for can pop it's head up during the warm up cycle also.

There is no fix necessarily for the VVT failures. There has been no update or revision for the parts that are subject to failure. I have been collecting data to determine the actual cause and thus far it points to oil viscosity. These type of valves are VERY sensitive to viscosity on MANY other platforms so it would be no surprise to me that these suffer the same issues. The parts that are failing are the oil control valves in most cases.

The ECU then essentially loses control of the cam timing. Since the cams in the FA20 are capable of both advance and retard, there is no real neutral position for them when they fail. They will and do literally swing from basically full retard to full advance as the ECU tries to get control of them. They can swing throughout their articulation quite a bit and never hit the valves but that is not to say it hasn't in your case.

If something more catastrophic has happened such as lets say a blown headgasket, cracked head, cracked sylinder, etc etc. that could explain your oil eruption you had along with the milky oil too. Lots of crank case pressure can build up in those scenarios. Loss of oil pressure can also cause all those codes you are seeing so if you have an oil pressure guage you can hook up I would while you do a startup.

Also I am curious why you think there may be a possibility that you sucked up water? Did you run through any big puddles or anything? I mean obviously you are running a rear mount which is more susceptible to water ingestion but I can't imagine you would have driven through anything that would have cause THAT much ingestion.....

Either way it sucks. I highly doubt the dealer will cover your engine but I have seen crazier warranty before so who knows. Regardless I am interested to see what happened to your engine if you do determine what the failure was.

[Juggles]

Just a heads up @Cross. In order to get back your money on that extended warranty you will have to go to the dealer location and sign some paperwork to make this happen. It Will go towards your loan. I did this myself

[Lischynski]

Originally Posted by AZFA20

They will and do literally swing from basically full retard to full advance as the ECU tries to get control of them.

[Cross]

Alright I sent it in to the Dealer just to see I told Peter the service manager up front what was going on and what I found I still expect to be denied but I will have an answer on the motor so if I choose to sell it as a builder I can give a detailed answer.

They did agree to refund my extended warranty, and it seems a few in my other thread are pushing me towards putting in the LS1 sitting here... if so I guess that means I am selling my turbo setup, injectors and other items... we shall see. I don't want to run into this problem again and it looks like there is no part replacement that can stop it from happening again...

[Yruyur]

Good luck man hope everything turns out ok.

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[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by Cross

Turbo doesn't have any oil lines only coolant, it's an Oilless Turbo.

300 and 301 are misfires on both sides. 21 14 B and C are Cam issues.

Here was some information posted about a TSB on this issue;

I know you already dropped it at the dealer, but is it possible the coolant used to cool the turbo somehow got sucked into the intake? I don't know how the cooling lines or jackets are routed in that setup...

Good luck man.

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

I know you already dropped it at the dealer, but is it possible the coolant used to cool the turbo somehow got sucked into the intake? I don't know how the cooling lines or jackets are routed in that setup...

Good luck man.

That's an oiless coolantless turbo setup.

[Cross]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

I know you already dropped it at the dealer, but is it possible the coolant used to cool the turbo somehow got sucked into the intake? I don't know how the cooling lines or jackets are routed in that setup...

Good luck man.

It would have been present in the charge pipes or on the MAF. It pulls coolant from the heater core inlet.

Honestly I think this is just going to turn into they fix it or I seem all of it and LS swap it

[nelsmar]

Originally Posted by Cross

It would have been present in the charge pipes or on the MAF. It pulls coolant from the heater core inlet.

Honestly I think this is just going to turn into they fix it or I seem all of it and LS swap it

Fuck it v8 it anyway! That's what I wanted to do originally. Lol

[jeffsides]

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[brenesk91]

@Cycotech Did you like the note I left you at the gym?