Oil smells like fuel

[jeebus]

Originally Posted by Red John

THIS ^^^

Improper break in procedure to blame?

I disagree with the owners manual recommended break in procedure, My opinion it leaves an important step undone.

Although I am new here, this isn't my first Rodeo.

I've built quite a few engines, mostly high horsepower with stock and aftermarket components.

I installed chromoly (hard) rings a few times before giving up on them after having repeated problems getting them to seat.

I am careful now to select rings that are cast iron composition, usually the top ring with a chrome surface.

When cylinder walls are new, they have a cross hatch texture that is produced by the final honing operation. The purpose of the final hone is to fine tune the cylinder size and to produce the cross hatch finish.
The function of the cross hatch finish (which disappears/wears away as the engine breaks in) is to abrade the edges of the top and second rings, this is what is referred to as "seating" these rings.

When a new engine with solid base (not roller cam) lifters is started, it must be run for a period of time (about 20 minutes at 2000 rpm) to break in the cam and lifters.
With roller cam setups and roller cam followers this step is not required, but a new engine must be run for a few minutes to run the builder/factory quality control procedures.
Nonetheless, Neither one of these break in procedures is performed with the engine under load.

The break in procedure for piston rings in a new engine is as follows. Take the vehicle on a section of straight road and perform a strong acceleration in a lower gear, 2nd is usually good, lots of torque usually available. At the top of your strong acceleration, allow engine braking to slow the vehicle down to where you would shift to a lower gear. Do this 2-4 times and then proceed with the gentle factory break in procedure. I would say that RPMs at the top end of your strong acceleration runs should reach 5000 on the Tach in this 7450 Redline engine. It won't hurt your engine one bit, Rather it will take advantage of the cross hatch finish's intended function while it is still new and not worn away yet.

ask me about new ring and pinion break in.

[SloS13]

Originally Posted by Touge Monster

Question for the op is the engine using any oil? I would try driving it a bit and make sure the oil consumption is within spec before you start to panic.

-Mike

Haven't noticed any oil consumption

[FirestormFRS]

Originally Posted by Red John

THIS ^^^

Improper break in procedure to blame?

I disagree with the owners manual recommended break in procedure, My opinion it leaves an important step undone.

Although I am new here, this isn't my first Rodeo.

I've built quite a few engines, mostly high horsepower with stock and aftermarket components.

I installed chromoly (hard) rings a few times before giving up on them after having repeated problems getting them to seat.

I am careful now to select rings that are cast iron composition, usually the top ring with a chrome surface.

When cylinder walls are new, they have a cross hatch texture that is produced by the final honing operation. The purpose of the final hone is to fine tune the cylinder size and to produce the cross hatch finish.
The function of the cross hatch finish (which disappears/wears away as the engine breaks in) is to abrade the edges of the top and second rings, this is what is referred to as "seating" these rings.

When a new engine with solid base (not roller cam) lifters is started, it must be run for a period of time (about 20 minutes at 2000 rpm) to break in the cam and lifters.
With roller cam setups and roller cam followers this step is not required, but a new engine must be run for a few minutes to run the builder/factory quality control procedures.
Nonetheless, Neither one of these break in procedures is performed with the engine under load.

The break in procedure for piston rings in a new engine is as follows. Take the vehicle on a section of straight road and perform a strong acceleration in a lower gear, 2nd is usually good, lots of torque usually available. At the top of your strong acceleration, allow engine braking to slow the vehicle down to where you would shift to a lower gear. Do this 2-4 times and then proceed with the gentle factory break in procedure. I would say that RPMs at the top end of your strong acceleration runs should reach 5000 on the Tach in this 7450 Redline engine. It won't hurt your engine one bit, Rather it will take advantage of the cross hatch finish's intended function while it is still new and not worn away yet.

ask me about new ring and pinion break in.

Wrong. The cross hatch machined into the cylinder is there for the oil to have something to cling to during the pistons stroke. A smooth bore cylinder with no cross hatch will cause the rings to wear prematurely due to no oil being on the cylinder wall during the pistons stroke.

[Touge Monster]

The crosshatch pattern is there for the ring surface to wear to similar to cutting rotors to bed in new brake pads. While it should never completely go away there will and should be a bit if wear to form a proper ring seal. The more common place I have seen wear on newer engines is along the piston skirt.

[Dephective]

Oil smelling like fuel is due to fuel blow by from the direct injection system. High cylinder pressures combined with the direct injection fuel PSI = fuel getting past the rings. Happens on virtually ALL direct injection cars. Audi FSI, Mazda's MZR 2.3, etc. Perfectly normal. Only thing is I recommend oil changes a little sooner. I know that Toyota says you can go like 10k miles, but fuel dilution changes the lubricity a bit and I don't feel comfortable knowing it's in there. That's just a personal preference. I'm coming from a Mazdaspeed 6, and every oil change you get a little buzz from the 93 oct. :P

[XPR Small Block]

Originally Posted by Dephective

Oil smelling like fuel is due to fuel blow by from the direct injection system. High cylinder pressures combined with the direct injection fuel PSI = fuel getting past the rings. Happens on virtually ALL direct injection cars. Audi FSI, Mazda's MZR 2.3, etc. Perfectly normal. Only thing is I recommend oil changes a little sooner. I know that Toyota says you can go like 10k miles, but fuel dilution changes the lubricity a bit and I don't feel comfortable knowing it's in there. That's just a personal preference. I'm coming from a Mazdaspeed 6, and every oil change you get a little buzz from the 93 oct. :P

it doesnt only happen on direct injection or fuel injection nor a carberated motor, it happens on all motors no matter if the cr is 7.5:1 or if its 12:1 its gonna happen on all motors. if there wasn't a lil bit of blow by in every motor you wouldn't have the proper vacuum you need an would most likely have a vacuum lock, do to no circulating air/vacuum with in the block of the motor. blow by is a must have on a motor but too much of course is a bad thing, too much meens you have bad piston rings and at that point you start burning oil and you will notice a dramatic drop in performance. i mainly work on v8s chevy or ford even a fresh built motor has blow by

[Dephective]

^^you are correct, but blow by from a DI motor is significantly higher. Fuel dilution on my MS6, with great compression, has dark brown oil in less than 2k miles. Fuel being injected at 1800psi vs a conventional port injection is going to behave differently in the combustion chamber. It's been covered at nauseum on Audi forums (they've been using DI for a decade now) and people had the same concerns. I had the same concern myself and I was no stranger to turning wrenches. Simple fact is, direct injection causes more blow by, and in turn more nasty crap in the crank case. All I'm saying is that a more frequent oil change regimen vs non-DI systems is advisable, as well as an OCC (oil catch can) and EGR delete. That will measurably reduce the engine contaminants and keep it running like the day you bought it.

[Dephective]

Also, google Motoman's engine break in guide to to understand how to properly break in a fresh motor to get the rings to sit properly.