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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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05-11-2021, 07:31 PM | #15 | |
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05-11-2021, 07:57 PM | #16 |
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I'll tell you, a good header and tune wakes these cars up. I just don't see the need to go FI with all the potential costs and issues and never getting your money back on selling. I'd just get a Cayman if you need more than what the header|tune offers.
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05-11-2021, 08:25 PM | #17 |
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So unfortunately I think most people got the wrong impression with this post, or just didn’t answer the question at all (but not everyone). Not looking for answers like “it depends, some cars are fine others aren’t” because that’s just stupid. I’m trying to be well prepared for it and have everything decently reliable. I do have a second car which I use along side my brz, but I still want to be able to drive it(BRZ) often.
I am more than aware that this car is not designed to have FI, which is exactly why I’m asking what options I have to make it work. I am not looking for crazy boost levels or even reaching the 300whp range, I just feel that the car could use a bit more power. I have the money to spend on professional installs and engine rebuilds if I become overwhelmed, all I care about is doing it with the smallest risk of an engine blowing. |
05-11-2021, 08:26 PM | #18 |
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Thanks for the info, I’m more than happy to explore alternative methods to getting a power increase with this car. I don’t have any attachment to idea of FI, it just seems like the popular method to getting power gains.
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05-11-2021, 08:28 PM | #19 | |
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05-11-2021, 08:31 PM | #20 |
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I am aware of the price of these products. You telling me to do more research is exactly what I’m doing right now by asking on these forums. I have talked to many brz owners both with and without FI, and have gotten mixed responses. I was hoping to get an actual answer to the question, and not whatever this was supposed to be...
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05-11-2021, 08:34 PM | #21 | |
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05-11-2021, 08:41 PM | #22 | |
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I have seen many people with turbo BRZs that last over 5 years and counting, so I was simply asking what the best way to prepare the car was. I may not be mechanically inclined, but I do now how to drive a car without destroying it. I frankly couldn’t care about what your (or anyone’s) personal opinion of FI, just what kind of upgrades the car could use to increase its longevity. You finished your post with “it all comes down to understanding and accepting the risk”. Yes, I am more than aware of the risk of overpowering an engine, which is why I’m asking on here for some pointers towards preventing that... |
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05-11-2021, 09:09 PM | #23 | |
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If you can look beyond yourself for a second you will notice that I was discussing a comment made by another member. The HP and other statements were made in response to what he said. Nobody was even pointing at you. There is no answer to your question. Some things worked for some and failed totally for others. You say you know some that lasted 5 years. Well that is cool there are many that didn't last 5 days. Hell there are some that blew up on the dyno and never even hit the street. No magic bolt on parts exist that will prevent it. I addressed your question by pointing out there is already a whole section on this if you bothered to just go read it instead of being about the ten thousandth person to ask the same question and expecting immediate and complete spoon feeding on how to do it.
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05-11-2021, 09:10 PM | #24 | |
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That isn't going to change by asking here.
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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05-11-2021, 09:17 PM | #25 |
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My mistake, I am new to the forum environment and thought this was a response to my post.
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05-11-2021, 09:30 PM | #26 | |
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You WILL get jokes, opinions, and comments that don't seem to relate but that is the nature of the forum community. This ain't Facebook, Reddit or Instagram.
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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05-11-2021, 09:47 PM | #27 |
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There isn't really a recipe. Any changes induce risk of improper installation, leaking vital fluids like coolant or oil.
Even if an amazing shop does the install, you still have the risk of part failure. The air filter might start coming apart and the turbo sends it into the intake. Maybe you hit a bump and your oil return line from the turbo comes loose, bleeding your oil supply dry in a few minutes? Maybe the af/r gauge the shop is using hasn't been calibrated in a while, and 11.3:1 is actually 12:1? It's a gamble no matter how it's done. You can be the most talented person in the world, but material defect still applies to you. If you insist on being turbocharged, get a basic kit, ECUTEK, run wastegate pressure on the turbo the kit comes with at no added cost, and figure out what you need from there. People are so pre-occupied with preventing failure, that they don't realize adding more unnecessary variables can do more harm than good.
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05-11-2021, 10:24 PM | #28 | |
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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The Following User Says Thank You to BrahmaBull1990 For This Useful Post: | therealstoly (05-12-2021) |
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Tags |
boosted, engine prep, fa20, itb, turbo |
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