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01-15-2021, 09:08 AM | #71 | |
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01-15-2021, 09:46 AM | #72 | |
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Nothing wrong with a temporary set-up using jumper cables to test things out. Are you using the OEM radio or have you gone aftermarket? |
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01-23-2021, 02:52 PM | #73 | |
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https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...98&postcount=5 |
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02-05-2021, 08:20 PM | #74 |
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Have you tried switching the amp section for the door speakers to LPF to see what that would sound like? Also, how have you secured the sub box?
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02-06-2021, 08:20 PM | #75 |
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So, do the front mid range speakers get a full range signal (that also goes to the amp for the door speakers) with a crossover that sends the highs to the tweeters? Or does the front signal go to a crossover which sends lows to the amp for the doors, mids to the dash mid range speakers, and highs to the tweeters? Or something else. Thanks.
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02-06-2021, 09:07 PM | #76 | |
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the other part of the full range signal goes to the door speaker amp, which has it's own filtering as part of the amplifier circuitry.
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02-07-2021, 10:44 PM | #77 | |
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And the rear output of the head unit powers the two rear speakers which also have their own 6b/octave high pass filters. I assume the head unit rear output is a full range signal as well. I also haven't heard of anybody doing any testing to see exactly what crossover frequency and slope values are built into the factory door speaker amplifier. |
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02-07-2021, 11:05 PM | #78 |
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I just rechecked my old '14 rear speakers, and there aren't any visible components on the rear speakers to indicate they get anything other than a full range signal. I believe the professional term is 'acoustic crossover.'
No one's really put effort into understanding the factory amp because it largely doesn't matter. There's no adjustment in the factory equipment, so there's no need to dig into how it does what it does so poorly.
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02-08-2021, 01:03 AM | #79 | |
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Really, no capacitors at all on the rear speakers? There must be some sort of high pass filtering built into the deck for the rear channels then or else you would get too much low end distortion on them when playing heavy bass-laden music, and people would be complaining about them. The major complaint I had was the door speakers causing too much vibration inside the doors. The rear speakers sounded fine to me, for the time that that were in use in my car. |
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02-08-2021, 02:01 AM | #80 |
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Take note of the environment. There's no enclosure, just a big hole they install over the top of, and their suspension is relatively stiff.
With the low end being amplified by the door drivers, I doubt they get loud enough to distort. I know for a fact my aiwa stereo uses a similar trick: I've taken up collecting those speakers after taking apart the original set in a fit of curiosity. There is a subwoofer with its own enclosure and also a high frequency driver in a separate enclosure, with extremely stiff suspension--the crossovers were designed into the main amplifier stages, so the speakers themselves don't have any extra components, but the suspension and independent enclosures lend themselves perfectly to acoustic filtering. By wiring the speakers in series, they work with any stereo, and sound quite good without any audible distortion well into the "neighbors asking to turn it down" range.
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02-09-2021, 12:20 PM | #81 |
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One of these days out of curiosity, I'm gonna bench test the factory head unit and amplifier combo just to satisfy my own curiosity. This would be a good test for that Audio Control DM-RTA that's available.
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02-09-2021, 09:54 PM | #82 |
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a dayton omnimic would likely be a better/cheaper tool for the job, just A/B a set of speakers with a different known-clean amplifier for a control.
alternatively, an oscilloscope would also be a great tool for the job. a DSO nano is only $100
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03-10-2021, 03:58 PM | #83 | |
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You can find many topics related to what you are asking at this blog site: https://www.audiofrog.com/audiofrog-tech-blog/ |
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