SPC Camber Bolt Issue

[JoeC]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Got these installed. Had major issues with those tabbed washers.
The. Lots won't go through as all. Later just installed the bolts straight with marking on the bolt (when the hub started to get max outwards for meg camber, held it there and tightened the nut to spec torque.

Anyone else had issues with the washers?

Cheers.

Lutfy

I had the same issue and decided not to use the washers. Got an alignment and they were about to get -2.4 degrees on both sides.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by JoeC

I had the same issue and decided not to use the washers. Got an alignment and they were about to get -2.4 degrees on both sides.

Awesome! Was able to get -2.2 front left and -2.4 front right with SPC bolt (without the spacer/washer) in the bottom and re-using the bottom bolt on the top. This is with TRD springs.

Rears were static -1.9 and -2.0 spot on.

THANKS a lot guys. This car desperately needs front camber and am excited for the next event where it will be a NASA (Time Trial) TTE contender.

Cheers,

Lutfy

[churchx]

-2.2 was not sufficient for me to fix uneven wear/ripped tire outside on track. I guess, one needs -3 minimum for that. Unfortunately that's above what can be got with camberbolts alone.

[JoeC]

Originally Posted by churchx

-2.2 was not sufficient for me to fix uneven wear/ripped tire outside on track. I guess, one needs -3 minimum for that. Unfortunately that's above what can be got with camberbolts alone.

I'm worried about this... next event is in two weeks and I'm hoping someone has a pyrometer handy so I can try to evaluate my tire wear

[finch1750]

It always depends on driver and setup but yeah, -3+ is usually the ballpark it seems

[churchx]

JoeC: don't mind too much. Yes, very probably camber will be insufficient .. but some is better then none/stock-ish "0deg". At least handling/extra grip wise improvement will be felt, even on very same tires. And while wear still uneven, better then if with stock alignment.
More camber .. one will have to start sacrificing something. Like irreversibly modding parts, eg. slotting struts, or adding camber plates, which will mean more spendings and less compliancy/more NVH, due all camplates being pillowball mount. (cursing Whiteline for inability to make non failing Com-C mounts for twins, would be hole grail for my preferences/car use)
Hmm.
And you wrote "TRD springs"? Lowering? And you have just one set of camber bolts, right? Then IIRC you should be able to go to -2.5 on lowered car, by installing camber bolts in upper hole too (Whiteline KCA416) in addition to SPC in lower hole.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by churchx

JoeC: don't mind too much. Yes, very probably camber will be insufficient .. but some is better then none/stock-ish "0deg". At least handling/extra grip wise improvement will be felt, even on very same tires. And while wear still uneven, better then if with stock alignment.
More camber .. one will have to start sacrificing something. Like irreversibly modding parts, eg. slotting struts, or adding camber plates, which will mean more spendings and less compliancy/more NVH, due all camplates being pillowball mount.

Agreed! Good info. I managed it with low camber but granted it was NOT fun. Assuming it should get the car to bite a bit more and will manage to preserve the tires. I did put in TRD front bar (helps with McPherson setup at least with my previous cars on track).

Churchx, based on your experience, is -3 degree possible with slotted struts? My goal is to get a set of MCS Remotes and they can be ordered with the slots at the bottom. Wondering that get to the desired high two low three neg camber. Pillow balls or solid ones are too rough on the roads where I live, there is already too much drama in the neighborhood, last thing I want is a car with rattles and such as I will be driving to and from the track with occasional DD.

Cheers,

Lutfy

[churchx]

With extra slotting - certainly possible (-3.3/-3.1). But if suspension gets heavy hits, imho bolt may slip there, getting alignment out of whack.
I've heard though advices that using paint /fingernail paint or blue loctite/or epoxy in place, while sounds hack-ish, may help prevent slipping. Otherwise recall reading to NOT use camberbolts in slotted holes. Though then again, why not use full strength bolt in eg. upper slotted hole, and then fine-adjust with just one camberbolt in lower, non slotted?
Ideally one should weld on one side extra material/washer (above simple DIY skills/tooling needed), or use inserts similar to these (often used in rally coilovers (thus should be proven to hold up to heavy abuse) coilovers to get fixed amount of offset in slots (should come with different hole offsets) - you keep both reliability & adjustability.
P.S.
If you mentioned to be able to order customized .. why not ask instead of slotted to drill hole excentric to stock location in first place?
P.P.S.
At some point one should be careful, that wheel/tire, depending on width/offset, may start to rub, if adding camber on just one end (camberbolts/slotting @ lower end of coilover), not also at top (with camberplate).

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by churchx

With extra slotting - certainly possible (-3.3/-3.1). But if suspension gets heavy hits, imho bolt may slip there, getting alignment out of whack.
I've heard though advices that using paint/fingernail paint or blue loctite/or epoxy in place, while sounds hack-ish, may help prevent slipping. Otherwise recall reading to NOT use camberbolts in slotted holes. Though then again, why not use full strength bolt in eg. upper slotted hole, and then adjust with just one camberbolt in lower, non slotted?
Ideally one should weld on one side extra material/washer (above simple DIY skills/tooling needed), or use inserts similar to these (often used in rally coilovers (thus should be proven to hold up to heavy abuse) coilovers to get fixed amount of offset in slots (should come with different hole offsets) - you keep both reliability & adjustability.
P.S.
If you mentioned to be able to order customized .. why not ask instead of slotted to drill hole excentric to stock location in first place?

Thank you again. Makes sense. I will discuss it with MCS when ordering the shocks.

Cheers!

Lutfy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ls1ac]

FYI, usually the paint is to show if something has moved or slipped, not as a lock tight substitute. We mark many of the suspension bolts and parts to show what has to be readjusted after an incident.

[churchx]

Is1ac: depends. Some may use it as indicator .. but some may use it exactly to reduce slippage/locktite substitute. Check some of those links, there people clearly are stating for what for they were doing that.
EDIT
crap. Seems that i misinserted for most of links same url :/. Going to fix that

[Richard_BRZ]

Hey guys, prepping to install camber bolts up front. Form what I gather in this thread I have two options:
1. Run SPC bolts (81305) in bottom hole and move the OEM 14mm crash bolts to the top.
OR
2. Run SPC bolts (81305) in bottom hole and Whiteline bolts (KCA416) in the top.


Can anyone tell me if they are running the first option and how it's holding up, or if it's better to spend more for the second option.


Thanks!

[Horrid_Funk]

Originally Posted by Richard_BRZ

Hey guys, prepping to install camber bolts up front. Form what I gather in this thread I have two options:
1. Run SPC bolts (81305) in bottom hole and move the OEM 14mm crash bolts to the top.
OR
2. Run SPC bolts (81305) in bottom hole and Whiteline bolts (KCA416) in the top.


Can anyone tell me if they are running the first option and how it's holding up, or if it's better to spend more for the second option.


Thanks!

I'm running the second option (But with SPC 81280 not the Whiteline ones) and it's held up with -2.3 for a thousand miles and a track day so far. I've been told it's not a great idea to run two eccentric bolts, though, as there's a greater likelihood of slipping. I'd probably recommend doing option 1 because you can probably get pretty much the same camber but without that risk. I'll probably be going back to that if/when it slips and I need to get another alignment.

[Horrid_Funk]

See here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=47
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=56