Think car needs new suspension - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

RickyRacer · 05-24-2018, 02:00 PM

13' FRS with 130k on it.

LOVED the way the car handled when i bought it, funnest car i've owned to date.

Unfortunately now, the ride is much bumpier, harsher, weird sounds here and there.. i think it's time for the suspension to get refreshed (i did brakes last year)

Catch is.. i don't like aftermarket.

I want to do a whole OEM rebuild and hopefully get the car to feel how it did when i bought it

Reason i don't like aftermarket is I drive ALLOT (DD) and aftermarket from my experience doesnt have the same longevity as OEM.

Can someone let me know what I should replace?

I know springs/struts/shocks in the back are standard. But what other suspension components should i replace while everything else is already being replaced?

Any reccomendations from you suspension guru folks? Again, I want OEM feel, daily driver comfort, and longevity.

LAstly, I don't trust myself to do suspension work. How many hours would a reputable body shop typically need for a job like this?

Thank you very much for your help!

dobbrz · 05-24-2018, 02:29 PM

I can't imagine everything needing to be replaced...something must be going but I wouldn't get all new suspension... I'm guessing you are at 130k km not miles since you are in Toronto?

wbradley · 05-24-2018, 02:29 PM

I suggest buy someone's OEM coilovers that were swapped early plus there might be a bushing or two that can be refreshed if necessary.

Lots of good shops in GTA depending where you are. Check the Toronto Subaru Club website for list of popular/recommended Subie shops.

Who knows hours these days that's why go to a reputable shop. My Toyota dealer charged me 3 hours @$130 to swap (no diagnoses needed) a starter.lol

RickyRacer · 05-24-2018, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dobbrz

I can't imagine everything needing to be replaced...something must be going but I wouldn't get all new suspension... I'm guessing you are at 130k km not miles since you are in Toronto?

yes 130k km.

struts/shocks/springs will be replaced for sure

can you elaborate on what you mean by everything?

I'm not too concerned about the cost.. i just want to keep the ride smooth and have it driving nicely for another 130k with OEM feel

Anything that should be replaced, will be replaced. I just dont have the suspension knowledge to know what other parts to buy

SCQTT · 05-24-2018, 02:43 PM

Shocks start wearing day one and it is so gradual most don't notice or care until it is a sloppy mess. Finding someone with "like new" stuff should be easy. The newer the better, even at 20K there is some wear. There have been a couple valving and spring rate changes too, right? Try to research which you ight like the best, or go with something from 17-18 to have the latest gen.

If all else fails I'm sure someone knows the manufacturer, Toyota didn't make them. Chances are they are Tokicko, Sachs, KYB, Showa or something similar right?

ZionsWrath · 05-24-2018, 02:46 PM

Sloppy BJs can also make it feel loose

Might consider that. But if you have suspension clunking its better to find the cause then throw parts at if

SCQTT · 05-24-2018, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

Sloppy BJs can

also move mountains, start wars, incite 6 shooter showdowns and instigate rebellion.

Racecomp Engineering · 05-24-2018, 02:54 PM

Bilstein B6 are a significant improvement over OEM 2013 shocks. Unfortunately, everything from Bilstein is backordered forever and ever. Skip the basic KYBs. Koni Yellow sports are fine but maybe not the best choice for you.

I would recommend OEM 2017 struts/shocks/springs. Get the Performance Pack parts if you want a little more "sport".

Inspect your suspension bushings...front control arm and rear upper control arm especially. Swaybar bushings too.

Inspect front and rear endlinks.

Inspect rear subframe cradle bushings.

Inspect ball joints and do a wheel bearing check. Look for torn CV boots.

Get a good alignment.

Check your brake pads and bleed your brake fluid while you're feeling productive.

- Andrew

Ultramaroon · 05-24-2018, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickyRacer

yes 130k km.

struts/shocks/springs will be replaced for sure

can you elaborate on what you mean by everything?

I'm not too concerned about the cost.. i just want to keep the ride smooth and have it driving nicely for another 130k with OEM feel

Anything that should be replaced, will be replaced. I just dont have the suspension knowledge to know what other parts to buy

Unless the springs are rusted, keep them.

Replace the dampers.

Replace any spherical joints that have leaked (torn boots) or otherwise clunk.

Replace the stabilizer bushings.

Inspect all the other rubber joints and replace those showing signs of dry rot or have torn.

Check the link for the service manuals in my sig line.

CSG Mike · 05-24-2018, 03:46 PM

Get a lightly used set of 2017 OEM dampers, and call it a day.

They frequently go for $100 here.

Shark_Bait88 · 05-24-2018, 04:02 PM

I just swapped out the Koni Yellows on my car for OEM '17 suspension. It feels a fair bit better than the OEM '13 suspension. That's likely your bets bet for the money and your goals.

Ultramaroon · 05-24-2018, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Get a lightly used set of 2017 OEM dampers, and call it a day.

They frequently go for $100 here.

That's where I wanted to leave it but, since OP asked...

He's also in the rust belt. I grew up just south of Toronto. Shit just rots.

Tcoat · 05-24-2018, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That's where I wanted to leave it but, since OP asked...

He's also in the rust belt. I grew up just south of Toronto. Shit just rots.

I got to spend some quality time inspecting under my car when it was getting the tire change a while back. I was very impressed with how it has stood up under there. After 3 winters and 120,000 miles (190,000 kilometers) the only things showing even surface rust was the unpainted nuts and bolts. Even they were not bad. All rubber boots and bushing were still pristine. The struts showed no issues at all even on my lowering springs. My poor exhaust has taken a shit kicking from whacking against speed bumps but that was abut all.

norcalpb · 05-24-2018, 10:44 PM

The 86 rubber suspension components are pretty spectacular. After 105k miles I can’t find any wear on the supporting suspension components, including all 4 sway bar endlinks.

Compare that with my old BMWs which needed front control arm, “guibo”, F and R top hats, and differential bushings at 100k.

05-24-2018, 02:00 PM	#1
RickyRacer Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: 13 FRS Location: Toronto Posts: 184 Thanks: 45 Thanked 63 Times in 32 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Think car needs new suspension 13' FRS with 130k on it. LOVED the way the car handled when i bought it, funnest car i've owned to date. Unfortunately now, the ride is much bumpier, harsher, weird sounds here and there.. i think it's time for the suspension to get refreshed (i did brakes last year) Catch is.. i don't like aftermarket. I want to do a whole OEM rebuild and hopefully get the car to feel how it did when i bought it Reason i don't like aftermarket is I drive ALLOT (DD) and aftermarket from my experience doesnt have the same longevity as OEM. Can someone let me know what I should replace? I know springs/struts/shocks in the back are standard. But what other suspension components should i replace while everything else is already being replaced? Any reccomendations from you suspension guru folks? Again, I want OEM feel, daily driver comfort, and longevity. LAstly, I don't trust myself to do suspension work. How many hours would a reputable body shop typically need for a job like this? Thank you very much for your help!

05-24-2018, 02:29 PM	#2
dobbrz Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: RB v1 FRS Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 165 Thanks: 40 Thanked 79 Times in 44 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I can't imagine everything needing to be replaced...something must be going but I wouldn't get all new suspension... I'm guessing you are at 130k km not miles since you are in Toronto? __________________ PROPΔGΔNDΔ DRIVEN TO INFLUENCE instagram: @andrewdobbie93

05-24-2018, 02:46 PM	#6
ZionsWrath Thanks Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: BRZ Location: NY Posts: 4,163 Thanks: 5,989 Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,498 Posts Mentioned: 38 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	Sloppy BJs can also make it feel loose Might consider that. But if you have suspension clunking its better to find the cause then throw parts at if __________________

05-24-2018, 04:02 PM	#11
Shark_Bait88 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Drives: 2013 Firestorm FR-S Location: Midwest Posts: 1,350 Thanks: 1,672 Thanked 865 Times in 481 Posts Mentioned: 12 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	I just swapped out the Koni Yellows on my car for OEM '17 suspension. It feels a fair bit better than the OEM '13 suspension. That's likely your bets bet for the money and your goals. __________________ "Shark_Bait88, the man who’s spent the most money modding his stock FR-S and it’s still stock." -@jdnguyen

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05-24-2018, 02:43 PM	#5
SCQTT ZWEI KOLBEN Join Date: Feb 2017 Drives: 2017 86 Halo 6MT Location: Mikes Sky Rancho Posts: 245 Thanks: 106 Thanked 163 Times in 88 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Shocks start wearing day one and it is so gradual most don't notice or care until it is a sloppy mess. Finding someone with "like new" stuff should be easy. The newer the better, even at 20K there is some wear. There have been a couple valving and spring rate changes too, right? Try to research which you ight like the best, or go with something from 17-18 to have the latest gen. If all else fails I'm sure someone knows the manufacturer, Toyota didn't make them. Chances are they are Tokicko, Sachs, KYB, Showa or something similar right?

05-24-2018, 02:54 PM	#8
Racecomp Engineering Join Date: Nov 2011 Drives: 2016 BRZ, 2012 Paris Di2 & 2018 STI Location: Severn, MD Posts: 5,414 Thanks: 3,432 Thanked 7,277 Times in 2,967 Posts Mentioned: 303 Post(s) Tagged: 9 Thread(s)	Bilstein B6 are a significant improvement over OEM 2013 shocks. Unfortunately, everything from Bilstein is backordered forever and ever. Skip the basic KYBs. Koni Yellow sports are fine but maybe not the best choice for you. I would recommend OEM 2017 struts/shocks/springs. Get the Performance Pack parts if you want a little more "sport". Inspect your suspension bushings...front control arm and rear upper control arm especially. Swaybar bushings too. Inspect front and rear endlinks. Inspect rear subframe cradle bushings. Inspect ball joints and do a wheel bearing check. Look for torn CV boots. Get a good alignment. Check your brake pads and bleed your brake fluid while you're feeling productive. - Andrew

05-24-2018, 03:46 PM	#10
CSG Mike Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: S2000 CR Location: Orange County Posts: 14,535 Thanks: 8,927 Thanked 14,181 Times in 6,837 Posts Mentioned: 966 Post(s) Tagged: 14 Thread(s)	Get a lightly used set of 2017 OEM dampers, and call it a day. They frequently go for $100 here.

05-24-2018, 10:44 PM	#14
norcalpb Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Drives: 2013 BRZ, 2023 Model 3 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 2,297 Thanks: 1,218 Thanked 863 Times in 570 Posts Mentioned: 15 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	The 86 rubber suspension components are pretty spectacular. After 105k miles I can’t find any wear on the supporting suspension components, including all 4 sway bar endlinks. Compare that with my old BMWs which needed front control arm, “guibo”, F and R top hats, and differential bushings at 100k.

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