STX Rules and Setup Questions

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by cjd

Isn't everything attached to the subframe? Though thrust angle could be different.

Correct. It's not like the front where shifting the subframe can correct for "lopsided" camber issues.

With thrust angle being wrong every time you're off and on throttle the rear will move around in strange ways though

[scirocco78]

Originally Posted by bmacfrs

I put those bushings in not too long ago also. I dont recall there being any leeway on reassembly. So I'm not sure what you mean about the sub frame not being straight. Maybe I missed something?

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I agree. I thought the same thing.
When I measured down the side of the car I found the rear subframe was shifted 1/4" to the left.
I had to put my back against the wall and push against the wheel until the subframe "popped" and moved.

[MoarTorqs]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Damn, you're right. I got a slightly different measure than you did, about 2mm diameter increase on the metal and the polyurethane.
The metal sleeve has a larger OD but I was hoping the larger diameter of poly would offset that so you'd have a similar poly/metal content but the SPC is theoretically 'stiffer' and therefore not even legal by the letter of the law.

But the fact that I nailed my rear alignment in my garage in <1 hour last night before today's test n' tune made it worth it.



calculations with some sweet powerpoint engineering:
minor update, metal/poly makes a bit more sense from a 'is there more metal than squishy stuff comparison standpoint'
Metal/Poly: OE=0.7 SPC =0.77
You could go in and calculate an actual percentage for the whole thing but you'll get the same net result.


(damn, I should have put *not to scale on the bottom)

With the SPC rear LCA's, you can get the DIF brand LCA bushings to make them legal. They are sold by FRSport and were developed specifically because the SPC bushings didn't meet the rules...

Here's a link if it helps...
https://frsport.com/Street-Touring-S..._p_445911.html

[cjd]

Originally Posted by MoarTorqs

With the SPC rear LCA's, you can get the DIF brand LCA bushings to make them legal. They are sold by FRSport and were developed specifically because the SPC bushings didn't meet the rules...

Here's a link if it helps...
https://frsport.com/Street-Touring-S..._p_445911.html

We're talking the toe arms. They're one of two with a bushing, and half the price of the Whiteline... They're also SSC parts so there was hope...

[MoarTorqs]

Originally Posted by cjd

We're talking the toe arms. They're one of two with a bushing, and half the price of the Whiteline... They're also SSC oars so there was hope...

OOPS, I missed the toe arm part... Sorry about that, It would be nice if toe arms were allowed in ST

[Mr.Scion]

Hi Everyone!

Im pretty new to forums, so I figured I would tell all you fine people about my nightmare STX build.

So I am coming from a well set up D street FRS, and for reasons I dont know, I did not want to go SSC (probably the lack of torquedip remedy, and the tires)

My original plan was to make a STX car that was just prepared enough to be competitive. I figured I was halfway there because I have MCS coilovers that were D street set up, and a Strano FSB.

I started to gather everything I needed to convert the coilovers, so I bough the raceseng top hats with all the bushings I needed for the MCS (or so I thought). I decided to go with 2.25" 450# square spring setup. My plan was to keep the stock RLCAs, and stock rear tophats. Well, after the initial install attempt, I ordered the wrong bushing for the MCS front shafts, and I realized that the rear tophats would be grossly inadequate. I ordered the raceseng rear 1" tophats and the correct front bushing.

On to the exhaust. Pretty straightforward. Tomei UEL, Tanabe OP, Berk catted FP, HKS single exit catback.

I decided to order the raceseng crank pulley. (yay?)
Install time for the crank pulley. Bolt came out, however the little spacer thing came out with it about halfway. It didnt want to go back in (damn). Also, for some reason when the crank bolt was being loosened, the engine was turning (car was in 6th gear w/ebrake on) (DAMN). Well after 40k miles, a couple of Pro solos and about 1,000 autocross launches, the stock clutch decided to no clutch anymore (DAMN DAMN).

So, pull the engine, pull the timing cover. Ordered new OEM timing gear and spacer key thingy. Found a wicked oil leak between the upper oil pan. (DAMN DAMN DAMN) decided to get it all fixed.

New OEM clutch and TOB from dealer. Also new OEM spark plugs (Why not). Engine it out, so Perrin motormounts, and whiteline steering rack bushings.

At this point, Im thinking to myself just go all in. Ordered the Verus/Velox rear LCAS (stx legal), Installed whiteline rear subframe inserts, differential inserts, transmission insert.

Ordered stoptech braided lines and installed them also.

My wheel setup is 949 racing 6UL with 245/40 stones.

I have an appointment with Delicious for a custom tune.

Im sure im missing something.

Anyways. Heres to a good season.

-Alex

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by Mr.Scion

Hi Everyone!

Im pretty new to forums, so I figured I would tell all you fine people about my nightmare STX build.

So I am coming from a well set up D street FRS, and for reasons I dont know, I did not want to go SSC (probably the lack of torquedip remedy, and the tires)

My original plan was to make a STX car that was just prepared enough to be competitive. I figured I was halfway there because I have MCS coilovers that were D street set up, and a Strano FSB.

I started to gather everything I needed to convert the coilovers, so I bough the raceseng top hats with all the bushings I needed for the MCS (or so I thought). I decided to go with 2.25" 450# square spring setup. My plan was to keep the stock RLCAs, and stock rear tophats. Well, after the initial install attempt, I ordered the wrong bushing for the MCS front shafts, and I realized that the rear tophats would be grossly inadequate. I ordered the raceseng rear 1" tophats and the correct front bushing.

On to the exhaust. Pretty straightforward. Tomei UEL, Tanabe OP, Berk catted FP, HKS single exit catback.

I decided to order the raceseng crank pulley. (yay?)
Install time for the crank pulley. Bolt came out, however the little spacer thing came out with it about halfway. It didnt want to go back in (damn). Also, for some reason when the crank bolt was being loosened, the engine was turning (car was in 6th gear w/ebrake on) (DAMN). Well after 40k miles, a couple of Pro solos and about 1,000 autocross launches, the stock clutch decided to no clutch anymore (DAMN DAMN).

So, pull the engine, pull the timing cover. Ordered new OEM timing gear and spacer key thingy. Found a wicked oil leak between the upper oil pan. (DAMN DAMN DAMN) decided to get it all fixed.

New OEM clutch and TOB from dealer. Also new OEM spark plugs (Why not). Engine it out, so Perrin motormounts, and whiteline steering rack bushings.

At this point, Im thinking to myself just go all in. Ordered the Verus/Velox rear LCAS (stx legal), Installed whiteline rear subframe inserts, differential inserts, transmission insert.

Ordered stoptech braided lines and installed them also.

My wheel setup is 949 racing 6UL with 245/40 stones.

I have an appointment with Delicious for a custom tune.

Im sure im missing something.

Anyways. Heres to a good season.

-Alex

That’s what you get for going balls out on a pulley :P


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[FrostedFlakes]

I am running KW Clubsports with factory recommended settings and just left it for my current auto cross. Although I like the way they feel, not sure if it is the best settings for auto cross and track.

Just curious if anyone is running any other settings with success?

Thanks

[justint5387]

Originally Posted by FrostedFlakes

I am running KW Clubsports with factory recommended settings and just left it for my current auto cross. Although I like the way they feel, not sure if it is the best settings for auto cross and track.

Just curious if anyone is running any other settings with success?

Thanks

I don't think there are any "best" settings. Everyone drive a little different and there are too many variables (alignment, sway bar, surface, tires, etc)

[Mr.Scion]

A few questions
Who is running the Mann rear bar? - What setting should I start out on?
Who is running MCS Non-remotes? - Are you having fitment issues trying to run caster in the front? The bottom of the strut is hitting my endlinks. I have a strano FSB. I ordered a Perrin FSB to see if that fixes it.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Mr.Scion

A few questions
Who is running the Mann rear bar? - What setting should I start out on?

Based on everything I've read, full stiff. Which seems a little silly because that's the same as the '13-'16 14mm bar, as I understand it...

What works best depends on your spring rates and front swaybar as well, of course. And alignment, tire choice, surface conditions...

[G_Ride]

Originally Posted by Mr.Scion

A few questions
Who is running the Mann rear bar? - What setting should I start out on?
Who is running MCS Non-remotes? - Are you having fitment issues trying to run caster in the front? The bottom of the strut is hitting my endlinks. I have a strano FSB. I ordered a Perrin FSB to see if that fixes it.

What cjd said. It depends on your spring rates, front bar, etc.

I do have MCS two-way non-remotes. I have the Whiteline 22mm front bar and endlinks and am not hitting anything.

[e1_griego]

I have the Mann bar. Running it on middle setting right now.

I run whiteline endlinks but KLC180-195 which is not the brz replacement ones, but a bit shorter. Have run them with MCS 1WNR and now 2WR with Strano bar, and now with Perrin bar with no issues.

[bslate3]

Start on the stiffest setting and try middle then softest. You don’t know what works best for your setup until you try all the settings.