Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[taiguy]

Topher shipped me a new bypass valve and it went in this afternoon. He mentioned having to lift the manifold off however, you can replace it without doing that so long as you have some longish socket extensions (12"+).

Putting the new one in proved to be trickier than getting the old one out as there are 3 nylon lock nuts that need to be threaded back on and it's way in there. I ended up having to go buy some magnetic nut setters ($5 at HF) which made it a breeze. I also added two hose clamps for good measure. Oh and I had to call Topher to confirm, when you install the new bypass valve there's actually some preload in the diaphram once you tighten all three lock nuts so that the housing is flush against the mounting bracket.

I'm 80% sure it's real and 20% placebo - but I don't think I've had smoother 1st gear starts since putting the supercharger in. Took a quick lap around town and things feel great; this is an A/B comparison to driving earlier this morning. Will monitor more over the next hundred miles.

[Im_SPEED]

How much space do you guys think is between the heat exchanger and the condenser. And the heat exchanger the the front bumper beam? Dont feel like pulling my bumper off atm.I was thinking of using some spacers and moving It away from the condenser to fit a low profile fan to help with heat soak. Seeing is how it's all ready and issue for me at 95f. And it's not even summer yet. Unless someone has a better idea.

[Zut]

Originally Posted by Im_SPEED

How much space do you guys think is between the heat exchanger and the condenser. And the heat exchanger the the front bumper beam? Dont feel like pulling my bumper off atm.I was thinking of using some spacers and moving It away from the condenser to fit a low profile fan to help with heat soak. Seeing is how it's all ready and issue for me at 95f. And it's not even summer yet. Unless someone has a better idea.

My heat exchanger almost touches the front bumper beam. I don't remember for the exchanger to the condenser but it's not a lot.

I'm running the Jackson racing dual radiator/oil cooler.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Im_SPEED]

Looks like I only need 2" (depth of the fan) and I don't care how much it's a race car I'm not pulling out the ac!. Lol

[dejahboi]

Sorry to derail the current topic. For the carb tune, you guys pull the ecu from the glove box for a pic of the label?

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by dejahboi

Sorry to derail the current topic. For the carb tune, you guys pull the ecu from the glove box for a pic of the label?

Uh...whut?!

[dejahboi]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Uh...whut?!

LoL yeah, I called Edelbrock some time ago for a carb tune. They asked me to send a pic of the ECU label.

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by dejahboi

LoL yeah, I called Edelbrock some time ago for a carb tune. They asked me to send a pic of the ECU label.

Weird, they usually just ask for ECU Version, Dongle ID and Reg for the Ecutek license. I guess they are trying to figure out your ECU version? Should be able to figure that out by model year right?

[Bfranklyn86]

It's a long shot but.....) anyone here run the edelbrock kit on a built engine with LOWER comp ratio than stock, or know anyone who does?

I've heard of a few EBSC cars with built motors on stock high CR. just wondering what sort of power could be put down with dropped CR.

[Gforce]

Apparently you need stronger con rods before lowering the compression ratio or fitting smaller driven pulleys are safe to use. Assuming you fit those rods then lowering compression ratio will be required to get much more power. Current superchargers and turbos are already at the detonation limits at peak torque.

[Dan37BRZ]

Little update 5/27/17.

Edelbrock 1556 kit w/Delicious Tune.

Anybody with this setup and Delicious tune notice any random idle issues? For the past couple weeks the Delicous tune has been working out great for the most part.

I noticed a couple times this has happened, randomly too. I would come to a stop light after a quick pull and the car would hunt for idle, between 200-300 RPM to 1000RPM, and it would almost stall out then RPM's will go back up, then back down and nearly stall. I would have to give it gas to prevent it from turning off. Then when the light turns green, I take off normal to the next light and idle is back to perfect.

NO CEL, no codes or anything. I don't know how I would even log this event because it's only happened twice randomly since I have installed the kit and I can't replicate it.

Also I noticed the car seemed to be getting slower each passing day, throttle response was getting worse each day, I was thinking I'm getting used to the power but out of curiosity I reflashed the car with the original tune Delicious sent me then reset the battery and OMG it felt like it gained 50whp, no joke. Anybody have to reset their battery to get the power back? Did I receive a bad tank of gas and the ECU just was stuck in some kind of retarded mode until reset it?

[Bfranklyn86]

Originally Posted by Gforce

Apparently you need stronger con rods before lowering the compression ratio or fitting smaller driven pulleys are safe to use. Assuming you fit those rods then lowering compression ratio will be required to get much more power. Current superchargers and turbos are already at the detonation limits at peak torque.

When you do an engine build with stronger con rods etc, you can essentially choose which compression ratio to go with. I've heard of a couple of edelbrocks running on built engines keeping the stock high compression ratios, similarly we've got a few supercharged 86s in the UK running the HKS striker kit which is also keeps a high CR.

In the case of the edelbrock, when not on e85, increasing the boost has not lead to much power gain, presumably due to heat/IATs -> detonation risk -> timing pulled.

I'm wondering if dropping the CR (which, if there was no such thing as detonation risk, would lead to less power) can mitigate this detonation risk on non-e85 fuels and lead to power gains when running high boost through the TVS1320.

[Gforce]

Originally Posted by Dan37BRZ

Little update 5/27/17.

Edelbrock 1556 kit w/Delicious Tune.

Anybody with this setup and Delicious tune notice any random idle issues? For the past couple weeks the Delicous tune has been working out great for the most part.

I noticed a couple times this has happened, randomly too. I would come to a stop light after a quick pull and the car would hunt for idle, between 200-300 RPM to 1000RPM, and it would almost stall out then RPM's will go back up, then back down and nearly stall. I would have to give it gas to prevent it from turning off. Then when the light turns green, I take off normal to the next light and idle is back to perfect.

NO CEL, no codes or anything. I don't know how I would even log this event because it's only happened twice randomly since I have installed the kit and I can't replicate it.

Also I noticed the car seemed to be getting slower each passing day, throttle response was getting worse each day, I was thinking I'm getting used to the power but out of curiosity I reflashed the car with the original tune Delicious sent me then reset the battery and OMG it felt like it gained 50whp, no joke. Anybody have to reset their battery to get the power back? Did I receive a bad tank of gas and the ECU just was stuck in some kind of retarded mode until reset it?

I have just the carb tune, actually the pre carb approval version, and idle speeds do jump around a bit for no apparent reason. What my engine no longer does is stumble into a very low idle which it used to on stock ecu mapping, no Supercharger installed. So, I put up with the weird mind of its own idle variation. It's no big deal and does not seem to affect on throttle behaviour, which in itself isn't perfect but I put that down to timing variations needed to protect the engine when it is operating so close to detonation limits all the time. A feature I expect of the very high compression ratio for a boosted engine.

Bear in mind that the idle map is completely separate from the on throttle mapping and runs very lean and with pulled timing for emissions compliance. Only when the engine is on throttle is the O2 sensor adjusting mixture, and not when fully open throttle. I do not think your description of idle dropping to 200-300 rpm is the way it should be. High idle, up to 1,800 rpm occasionally seems to be normal but the very low idle should not be happening.

[Gforce]

Originally Posted by Bfranklyn86

When you do an engine build with stronger con rods etc, you can essentially choose which compression ratio to go with. I've heard of a couple of edelbrocks running on built engines keeping the stock high compression ratios, similarly we've got a few supercharged 86s in the UK running the HKS striker kit which is also keeps a high CR.

In the case of the edelbrock, when not on e85, increasing the boost has not lead to much power gain, presumably due to heat/IATs -> detonation risk -> timing pulled.

I'm wondering if dropping the CR (which, if there was no such thing as detonation risk, would lead to less power) can mitigate this detonation risk on non-e85 fuels and lead to power gains when running high boost through the TVS1320.

I believe you can't get much more than 300 HP from this engine with stock compression ratio on normal pump gasoline. With the completely as delivered Edelbrock you can feel the timing jumping around depending on throttle, load and ambient temperature which I take as an indication that Edelbrock got their math right the first time. I think Cosworth installs are similar and without the header and low temp thermostat (which I think allows more boost before the engine gets too hot) I'd bet the dyno graphs would be virtually the same for both.

Hard to know why Cossie selected the smaller 900 blower and Edelbrock stuck a giant blower on (the 1320 is for 3.0 litre engines). Harrop also chose the big mutha blower (big for just two litres).