AVO Turbo Kit Owners Topic

[kbogarto]

Originally Posted by JustBoostin

Hey guys, has anyone else had issues with the turbo inlet tube slowly working it's way off the turbo? I haven't been able to figure out a solution all year. I've tried all I could think of. If anyone else has encountered this I'd love to hear about a solution. Thanks

It's been a problem for me for over two years. Multiple people have had issues with this. Unfortunately there is no easy fix. Someone on here pulled the turbo and welded a bead to hold the pipe on. I tend to unhook all the pipes and reconnect everything every few months. Are you running the 50-50 BOV?

[SkAsphalt]

Originally Posted by kbogarto

It's been a problem for me for over two years. Multiple people have had issues with this. Unfortunately there is no easy fix. Someone on here pulled the turbo and welded a bead to hold the pipe on. I tend to unhook all the pipes and reconnect everything every few months. Are you running the 50-50 BOV?

Mine has been holding very well. but I wonder if it is a case of low mileage, stiff motor mounts, little movement to cause it to wiggle off?

I should check tho, just to be sure/

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by Christopherkuchta

My current tune since I got the avo kit installed is from august 5th this year and my first ecutek tune was from the beginning of 2016

Speak to your tuner and advise that you think this might be the issue and see what they say. Might not have realised as it won't have reared it's head until now. Not sure if only impacts a certain RR revision or ROM type but ECUtek should have resolved this or advise. It's not easy updating to a newer RR file or ROM type as you have to manually copy the tables I assume a lot of tuners don't bother....

[onzippy]

Originally Posted by JustBoostin

Hey guys, has anyone else had issues with the turbo inlet tube slowly working it's way off the turbo? I haven't been able to figure out a solution all year. I've tried all I could think of. If anyone else has encountered this I'd love to hear about a solution. Thanks

I tried different clamps, cable ties and trimming tubes.... along the same idea of welding a bead on the turbo inlet, I finally came in from the bottom and drilled and tapped for a stainless round head machine screw on the inlet. The wall is very thick and plenty to thread. Once installed, the head of the screw creates a bump that prevents the clamp and tube from sliding off. Was a PITA for over a year but hasn't moved now. Also, would recommend using the tbar clamps instead of the worm gear. Good luck..check your tube for damage from rubbing on pulley if it has been loose for a while.

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[killboy]

Originally Posted by JustBoostin

Hey guys, has anyone else had issues with the turbo inlet tube slowly working it's way off the turbo? I haven't been able to figure out a solution all year. I've tried all I could think of. If anyone else has encountered this I'd love to hear about a solution. Thanks

I felt that tube just needed to be a bit longer and it would stay. If the clamp is removed, it has a natural tendency to rest just shy of the turbo inlet flange, and since there is no hump there for the clamp to work with, the vibrations will always cause it to naturally work its way off.

I found a silicone reducing coupler laying around that fit around the outside of the AVO kit's rubber inlet hose, then reduced down to the same size as the rubber hose. This gave me an extra inch or so of hose, and now it stays on even without the clamp. (Of course I still use the clamp also. )

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by killboy

I felt that tube just needed to be a bit longer and it would stay. If the clamp is removed, it has a natural tendency to rest just shy of the turbo inlet flange, and since there is no hump there for the clamp to work with, the vibrations will always cause it to naturally work its way off.

I found a silicone reducing coupler laying around that fit around the outside of the AVO kit's rubber inlet hose, then reduced down to the same size as the rubber hose. This gave me an extra inch or so of hose, and now it stays on even without the clamp. (Of course I still use the clamp also. )

Where the bypass valve is. Slice off about an inch.


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[Unclewonka]

Originally Posted by Unclewonka

Long time lurker here.

Have a July build 2012 GT86 manual that has run an AVO Stage 1 kit since March 2013. This is with a stock overpipe and frontpipe, and AVO's 2.5" resonated catback, sitting on 18" TE37SL with low profile tyres.

She has seen a bit of a hard life - I daily'd it from the time it was boosted at 18,000km through to 78,000km. It hasn't missed a beat in this time. At the 60,000km mark I decided we would swap the "stock" 5psi spring for an 8psi actuator, EBCS, fuel pump, 1000cc injectors and E85 with an Ecutek tune - the one and only dyno run it had was 240whp on E65 (Dyno Dynamics hearbreaker dyno) but with an erratic boost profile (peaked at 7.5psi at 4,000rpm and was down to 4psi at 7,000rpm. Learned that my spring was faulty and not pulling as much boost as the box said - have since swapped it for a 12psi spring with a "safe" non-dyno tune for RON98 and E85.

Curiously, while the 12psi was working as advertised on bench test, I only pulled about 9-10psi - apparently due to a pressure drop across the intercooler.

Haven't driven it for seven months (rural hospital attachment) but am back now - awaiting an Empire 2.5" overpipe, MAP resonated catless 2.5" frontpipe and a Hypertune Intercooler. Have decided I'll probably end up running 16lb at most, get a dyno tune and call it a day. I guess 1000cc injectors are a bit of overkill.

Will keep you all posted :-)

Sorry guys, forgot to keep you all posted!

Anyway, long story short, my tuner didn't push it past 10psi because it started to rock the engine mounts allegedly. Here's a dyno plot that might explain way. On a Dyno Dynamicsheartbreaker dyno again as well, on 18" wheels with 265/35R18s - you'd get about a 15-20% higher number on DynoJet. I'm absolutely flabbergasted that I'm getting this much on such little boost.

[2thdoc]

i have the stage 1 AVO kit with the recirculating BOV. If i want the 50/50 BOV what modifications do i have to do to the car. Retune?

[Unclewonka]

Originally Posted by 2thdoc

i have the stage 1 AVO kit with the recirculating BOV. If i want the 50/50 BOV what modifications do i have to do to the car. Retune?

No change to tune whatsoever.

[kuchtaa]

Has anyone ran into a problem similar to this? I have cel codes p0171 p050a p117b and p1170. The car idles then dies, there's smoke coming from where the actuator connect to the turbo and from the exhaust. Belows a video of where the smoke is coming from.

[SkAsphalt]

Originally Posted by kuchtaa

Has anyone ran into a problem similar to this? I have cel codes p0171 p050a p117b and p1170. The car idles then dies, there's smoke coming from where the actuator connect to the turbo and from the exhaust. Belows a video of where the smoke is coming from.

I have never seen a turbo look powder white like that without it being bad news...you also have a oil leak on the hot side. Very bad

[shayangh]

Quick question from a lurker, what oil coolers are you guys using if any? Any other cooling modifications?

[kbogarto]

Originally Posted by shayangh

Quick question from a lurker, what oil coolers are you guys using if any? Any other cooling modifications?

I don't track my car. I don't necessarily recommend it but I'm not running an oil cooler. I just watch my oil temp carefully and don't let it get above 240.

[andrewFT86]

Originally Posted by kuchtaa

Has anyone ran into a problem similar to this? I have cel codes p0171 p050a p117b and p1170. The car idles then dies, there's smoke coming from where the actuator connect to the turbo and from the exhaust. Belows a video of where the smoke is coming from.

have you solved the problem ? turbo replacement?