Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[Jeremiahlee34]

Originally Posted by Rifle

You'll need an oversided pulley. You can push maybe 2 more psi than the 210 on stock internals (safely), and that's about 14psi.. You can always try turning it up until it pops, I guess. Or just build the motor before you do anything, then upgrade. Because even @smudge blew a hole in his block with the 335.. and his car was built. Admittedly, he had a faulty part.. but still. The 335 is a beast!

Thank you for the info. Ugh I really wanted to get the upgrade too. But DEFINITELY do not want to blow the motor.

So I have two follow up questions.

1: if I pumped the same 12 psi as I have with the 69mm on the 210, would there be any gains with the 335, tq, heat soat, peak numbers at lower rpm, ect?

2: if I did build out the motor, what parts would blow first, I.e what should be replaced to handle say 375whp.
I just know there are a million option and I could waste a crap ton of money. Lol.

Again thank you for the info.

[walletsr]

You would need rods those are the weak part of the engine. Those break at low rpms due the torque. Before you even get that far as I said you would need new clutxh, injectors, pump and run e85. If you don't have e85 you would need to lower compression ao you could run pump gas. Cheapest price for built block is 3k with your block being built or 5k with a new block

Originally Posted by Jeremiahlee34

Thank you for the info. Ugh I really wanted to get the upgrade too. But DEFINITELY do not want to blow the motor.

So I have two follow up questions.

1: if I pumped the same 12 psi as I have with the 69mm on the 210, would there be any gains with the 335, tq, heat soat, peak numbers at lower rpm, ect?

2: if I did build out the motor, what parts would blow first, I.e what should be replaced to handle say 375whp.
I just know there are a million option and I could waste a crap ton of money. Lol.

Again thank you for the info.

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Jeremiahlee34

Thank you for the info. Ugh I really wanted to get the upgrade too. But DEFINITELY do not want to blow the motor.

So I have two follow up questions.

1: if I pumped the same 12 psi as I have with the 69mm on the 210, would there be any gains with the 335, tq, heat soat, peak numbers at lower rpm, ect?

2: if I did build out the motor, what parts would blow first, I.e what should be replaced to handle say 375whp.
I just know there are a million option and I could waste a crap ton of money. Lol.

Again thank you for the info.

Probably less heat soak if still 12psi on the 335.

260whp / 210tq with 12psi on 93 with the 210.

[Chrisbrz14]

What do you guys think about the oil around the plastic barb?

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Chrisbrz14

What do you guys think about the oil around the plastic barb?

You might have the wrong hose on that vacuum port. I THINK brake booster goes there, although I'd have to check. Otherwise, you're just condensing crank case gasses right there. Consider an oil catch can. You can do your own for about $30. I just did a couple weeks ago.

[Chrisbrz14]

Originally Posted by riboyster

You might have the wrong hose on that vacuum port. I THINK brake booster goes there, although I'd have to check. Otherwise, you're just condensing crank case gasses right there. Consider an oil catch can. You can do your own for about $30. I just did a couple weeks ago.

Yeah I'm ordering a radium can tonight, it's been hooked up like that for 16,000 miles so I'm hoping I had it right lol.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Chrisbrz14

Yeah I'm ordering a radium can tonight, it's been hooked up like that for 16,000 miles so I'm hoping I had it right lol.

Haha yeah as long as it runs well at idle you should be okay. And yeah, I'm not surprised with the leakage after 16k miles. If it was less than 1 thousand, then something would be up for sure.

The low pressure crank case vent is ALWAYS pumping out smelly vapor. I'm venting to atmosphere so it's something I've been working on for a while now.

[walletsr]

If no one wants to trade for my 335 I may just have to put it back on with a bigger pulley.

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Chrisbrz14

What do you guys think about the oil around the plastic barb?

That's the EGR relocated hose. Twist the barb so it's facing the firewall tight. Also, add a hose clamp.. just did it today.

Sidenote!

Finally fixed my airlocked intercooler issue. Drained the whole system, removed the heat exchanger, back pressured the whole system, fixed 2 small leaks, refilled the system, burped the system (which took a stupid long time), and it seems to have fixed my timing concern, and is no longer pulling timing underload, infact, it's ADDING timing! yaaaay!

[chargedup]

Hey guys, noticed one of my pullys was loose today..tried to tighten but it was already tight, just out of balance? what's the solution here?

[Chrisbrz14]

Originally Posted by chargedup

Hey guys, noticed one of my pullys was loose today..tried to tighten but it was already tight, just out of balance? what's the solution here?

You mean your tensioner pulley?

[chargedup]

Originally Posted by Chrisbrz14

You mean your tensioner pulley?

Right

Might add that I bought the car with the sprintex kit and completely new to the 86 so have no idea what's going on.

[tegunulgener]

It should be like that, it's a tensioner

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

[Rifle]

Originally Posted by Chrisbrz14

Yeah I'm ordering a radium can tonight, it's been hooked up like that for 16,000 miles so I'm hoping I had it right lol.

Make sure you upgrade the hoses to higher vacuum lines. Stock Radium lines hold 30psi vacuum and collapse under load of the 210. I replaced with 250psi 8AN race hose. Like $16 for 10 feet.