CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by xFury

Looking to purchase Coilover for Daily Drive and to drop about 1"-1.5" drop with 18x9.5 wheels. Was looking at the ST Coils and Flex Z coils, I would like to do AutoX once in a while, but mainly Daily drive it for sure. I go to Cali sometimes if that help from NV. @Racecomp Engineering @CSG Mike

Any advice?

Thanks!

Either option would work for you. But 18x9.5 wheels are pretty big and will not help performance or ride.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by DerHauptDigga

Could you all tell me what the OD is for TRD springs?
I have been looking everywhere on the forums and have found nothing.

My brother is an engineer at Bilstein and says the PSS10s have almost the same OD as stock suspension. (Which I had a hard time believing, but he has all the info)

I only ask because I bought 18x9.5 +40mm wheels and they will rub on the stock suspension. I was debating between buying KW V3s or Bilstein PSS10s. Any suggestions?

PLEASE HELP!

The Bilstein coilovers use progressive springs, which are fairly wide.

We will have a custom valved and sprung Bilstein coilover available later this year which uses linear springs. Non-adjustable damping, but they're valved very nicely.

KW V3 are a good street and light track coilover that would work well too. Our RCE T2s are customized KW clubsports, so a little more track performance if you're into that. Worth looking into.

- Andrew

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by DerHauptDigga

Could you all tell me what the OD is for TRD springs?
I have been looking everywhere on the forums and have found nothing.

My brother is an engineer at Bilstein and says the PSS10s have almost the same OD as stock suspension. (Which I had a hard time believing, but he has all the info)

I only ask because I bought 18x9.5 +40mm wheels and they will rub on the stock suspension. I was debating between buying KW V3s or Bilstein PSS10s. Any suggestions?

PLEASE HELP!

Here's a good picture of the PSS B14's with the provided progressive rates and switched over to a 60mm linear spring. Since the springs mate with the OE 90mm upper spring perch I would absolutely say they are nearly the same OD as stock. The PSS10 (B16) use the same hardware so they will be identical on the outside except for the adjuster.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=87

Sounds like your only concern is wheel clearance and the KW's win by default. If you're considering other factors you'll have to weight the pros and cons yourself. Putting a 60mm ID spring on the fronts will result in similar clearance to the V3's I believe, but you'll be running a custom setup with only generosity to support you if any problems arise.

[fumanchu1]

/looks at alignement stuff
CAmber ok...
Toe...hmmm
,etc.
/cries and ask @Racecomp Engineering for help


Seriously, I'm currently running a DD 2013 Brz (with KW c38 sc, all solid mounts/bushings, kw v3 suspension, 18x9.5 wheels with pss) and plan to have some occasional light track duty and some sideways action (some grip but a bit tail happy should I wish to throw it sideway would be my ideal handling!? if that makes any sense).


I have to get an alignement done at a local shop, but have no idea what type of specs I should give the guy as far as what I want (suspension is not my forte... neither is kia.. bad joke ok). After some reading (semi understanding wth I'm reading) I'm seeing that people with my setup tend to be around -1 to -2 camber (that's as far as my thought process can take me on this subject). So my question is any recommendations as to what alignment specs I should be looking at (and their corresponding number-ranges) for my application?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Stock mounts? Rear LCAs?

Max out front camber with the lower mount on the KWs and you should be around -2.5 or so. Zero toe front and a tiny bit of rear toe in (or 0 toe in the rear if you don't really want the stability).

- Andrew (currently in Scotland so I'll be slow to reply)

[ScionOfHorus]

Going to get my Tein SRCs rebuild soon, is it possible to get them revalved to be the same as the CSG spec ones? What spring rates would I need for that? Currently on 10k front, 12k rear.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by ScionOfHorus

Going to get my Tein SRCs rebuild soon, is it possible to get them revalved to be the same as the CSG spec ones? What spring rates would I need for that? Currently on 10k front, 12k rear.

I doubt Tein will be willing to burn one of their vendors by releasing their proprietary valving. Unless you go through CSG for it.

[ScionOfHorus]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

I doubt Tein will be willing to burn one of their vendors by releasing their proprietary valving. Unless you go through CSG for it.

That's basically what I'm trying to find out. Going through CSG would probably make it easier on my too xD

[Norville Rogers]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Agreed with @Captain Snooze that establishing a budget is the honest step 1.

Step 2 is deciding what kind and what size tire you plan on using. This plays a big part in step 3, which is deciding how hardcore you want to be. Do you want to set track records with hoosiers? Do you want to drive your car daily? Do you drive on the crappy beat up roads of Baltimore city like me and need something that can handle both that and the track? Again, you can do a lot of things with an excellent shock, but that goes back to step 1...the budget.

There are MANY other factors...wings and aero for example. But budget and tire choice are the main things.

As for damping, that gets a bit more complicated. You'll sometimes see phrases like 65% critically damped thrown around. If that scares you, take a step back. If not...I'd encourage you to do a LOT of reading. It gets fun but nerdy.

- Andy

Wow. This has everything.

And yet in some ways nothing.

[stockysnail]

@Racecomp Engineering or @CSG Mike
Hoping to get some recommended camber settings.

I just got RCE Tarmac 2s. I have all the whiteline stuff with the exception of the bump steer correction kit and LCAs. I opted for the rear inner camber bolt/bushing instead for camber adjustment in the rear and in the front all I have is the whiteline bolts. I'm getting an alignment next week. I previously had 1.1 in front and 1.5 in the rear on Koni Yellow and RCE Yellows. I run RE11A tires currently 245/40R17. May switch to RE71R after these burn up in about a year.

I do a 3-5 track days and 3-5 autox a year and the rest is daily driving. If you recommend more than 1-1.5 camber in the front I'm guessing I'll need to get a camber plate for the tarmac 2 oem top hat with spacer I'm currently using. One guy I talked to says -3 in front and -2 in rear is what's good. What do you guys say?

[Hostile_Kittens]

Looking for recommendations for Autocross/daily driving Caster settings. I've got a buddy with some modest national success recommending the absolute max possible for maintaining camber during turn-in. I'm just looking to see if you guys are echoing that sentiment. I've got the Whiteline caster kit sitting in my garage, should I kick in that extra .5* of caster or is 7.0 enough, or too much already lol.

Current alignment is:
Front...
Camber -3.3
Caster 7.0
Toe 0.00

Rear:
Camber -1.9
Toe 0.10

Current setup is RCE T2's with Raceseng Cas/Cam plates. Wheels are Kosei 17x8+45 w/ 245/40/r17 RS3's, Whiteline 20mm front and 16mm rear adjustable swaybars. Toe arms, trailing arms, all of the other whiteline bushings as well.

[86Tony]

i have this rear clunk on my passenger rear every time i hit a big bump or at low speed on a bumpy road, i checked everything, its seems tight im trying to figure out if the actual damper can cause a clunking noise? what else.can i try to get rid of that clunk

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

@Racecomp Engineering or @CSG Mike
Hoping to get some recommended camber settings.

I just got RCE Tarmac 2s. I have all the whiteline stuff with the exception of the bump steer correction kit and LCAs. I opted for the rear inner camber bolt/bushing instead for camber adjustment in the rear and in the front all I have is the whiteline bolts. I'm getting an alignment next week. I previously had 1.1 in front and 1.5 in the rear on Koni Yellow and RCE Yellows. I run RE11A tires currently 245/40R17. May switch to RE71R after these burn up in about a year.

I do a 3-5 track days and 3-5 autox a year and the rest is daily driving. If you recommend more than 1-1.5 camber in the front I'm guessing I'll need to get a camber plate for the tarmac 2 oem top hat with spacer I'm currently using. One guy I talked to says -3 in front and -2 in rear is what's good. What do you guys say?

Hey sorry I was out of the country last week...did you call in and talk to Myles?

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Hostile_Kittens

Looking for recommendations for Autocross/daily driving Caster settings. I've got a buddy with some modest national success recommending the absolute max possible for maintaining camber during turn-in. I'm just looking to see if you guys are echoing that sentiment. I've got the Whiteline caster kit sitting in my garage, should I kick in that extra .5* of caster or is 7.0 enough, or too much already lol.

Current alignment is:
Front...
Camber -3.3
Caster 7.0
Toe 0.00

Rear:
Camber -1.9
Toe 0.10

Current setup is RCE T2's with Raceseng Cas/Cam plates. Wheels are Kosei 17x8+45 w/ 245/40/r17 RS3's, Whiteline 20mm front and 16mm rear adjustable swaybars. Toe arms, trailing arms, all of the other whiteline bushings as well.

You've got a pretty awesome set-up there.

If you run courses with a lot of steering angle, then yes run as much as you can. One excellent motorsports engineer told me that caster is both track dependent and driver dependent. When you get to ~7 or 8 degrees it starts feeling a little "odd" to some and better for others.

- Andrew